67-72 blazer suspension lift kits

[rayray767]

Anyone know a good brand suspension lift to buy for my 72 k5? I'm looking at some 20" 6 lug Rocket Booster rims to put on it.
What makes a good suspension lift great?
I was told before that suspension lifts that use rear blocks aren't good . That true?
Could I do rear springs instead of leaf springs or is that not even possible or even to buy. I would have to have a shop do the suspension cause I have know idea at all on a suspension set up .
What I do know is definitely not a body lift . I've seen those and the bumpers sit way low and it looks silly .. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated or pictures and price range would also help so that I don't pay to much or get ripped off.

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[Mint68]

I purchased from sd truck springs, they had free shipping and were cheaper than anywhere else I saw. I went with tuff country because everybody says they ride very well and have the softest spring rates.

Here is their page...

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/suspen...up-truck-69-72

[rayray767]

Yeah I heard tuff country was good . What size lift did you get?
Thanks for your reply.
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[Ole Beater]

Thats who i ordered mine through also. Ive been satisfied with the springs. They are 4" lift with a dropped steering link.

[rayray767]

How about the blocks in the rear can anyone tell me for info on that . Good ? No Good ?
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[70-K5]

It all depends on what you are going to do with your rig. Blocks simply space the leaf spring away from the axle perch. You will have the same ride in the rear, depending of course on the choice of your new shock. With a new rear spring the ride could be harsher or softer depending on the choice of manufacturer.

Blocks in the rear aren't really a *bad* way to lift a vehicle, but they do open up potential for other issues. Axle wrap is slightly worse with blocks, and if you are going to do any sort of wheeling there is potential for a block to get kicked out if one of the spring pins break. These events happen very rarely though and there are millions of blocks out there.

As far as how big of a lift you want depends on how high you want to jump to get in and how much tire you are trying to put on your rocket rims. Basic rule of thumb is 4" lift will clear 35" tires, if you want to go bigger get the 6" which can run as big as you want.

If you go over 4" you will have many other issues to start dealing with, as well as other upgrades to compensate for the higher un sprung weight at every corner. You'll need longer drivelines, bigger brakes, possibly longer brake lines, maybe breather tubes for your axle, and your driveline angles might need some adjustment.

And you cannot run coil springs in the rear unless you're ready to shell out about $4,000 and do some fairly significant fabrication work.

[Mike C]

My own experience with blocks is they bent the spring perches on my 12 bolt. I had to not only then buy springs, but repair the perches. I highly recommend doing all spring lift with steering arm correction which is where I wound up eventually in the round about method.

[70-K5]

How did a block bend your spring perch? If you had the correct block installed I don't see how that is physically possible.


Good point on the steering arm. If you are going with a 4-6" lift and buying a kit most come with a raised steering arm. The goal is to keep the drag link parallel to the ground.

[Mike C]

The hollow cast iron blocks loaded the outside of the spring perch. This caused the perch to "roll" to the outside making it no longer flat. Then the axle "walked" all the time forwards and backwards. The height of the block acts as a lever increasing the load on the perch. Combined with a reasonably stout small block and a 4 speed, the result was bent perches.

Drag cars weld and brace the perches to keep the same thing from happening. Mine are now welded, braced, and ground flat. And the blocks went in the trash a long time ago.

There is a reason they make rear lift springs. They sell blocks to people who want to lift on the cheap, but the right way IMO is to use springs. And as noted above, I put my money there.

[rayray767]

Okay thanks guys for your time and the info
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[rayray767]

Just getting my cash together for my lift. I'm think I'm going with tuff country unless someone can give me reason not too. I was on their website looking at the 69-72 Chevy truck lift and saw that they sell a kit without the shocks and with the shocks. My question is should I look elsewhere for a better shock or should I go with the 6000 or 8000 shock setup ? I'm not sure of the difference of the two shock choices they have. I'm needing someone to explaine this to me... Also I was looking at a duel shock bracket setup is this worth the money to have a duel setup or is it just for looks ?
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[70-K5]

In my opinion you don't need dual shocks, but they look cooler to those who don't know better.

I went with the nitrogen shock upgrade and was very happy. it was like an extra $100 or so if I remember correctly.

[rayray767]

Thanks
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