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Old 05-29-2013, 10:58 PM   #1
rockb1
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Photos using stock trailing arms

I am looking to use my stock trailing arm system. I was thinking of z'ing the frame and running the bags off of the trailing arms to the newly located frame. Has anyone done this? Photos, or advise?
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Old 05-31-2013, 06:29 PM   #2
hellbent72
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

I back halfed my rear frame and used my stock trailing arms. Imo if your going to cut your rear frame off for the z and then cut again for the c notch and do all the work to make the frame square again you should just back half it with all new metal and this route the rear of the frame will be boxed. I used my stock spring locaction to mount my bags and the upper bag mount I placed on the outside of the new boxed back half. I wished and still plan on getting a set of tubular trailing arms. Imo the stock trailing arms are prone to spliting apart and the mounts at the crossmember are not made to flex at all. The tubulars have joints made to flex. Also the tubular arms are adjustable and when you lower a truck with the factory crossmember/trailing arms to the extreme it pulls the rear wheels closer to the cab and make the rear wheels uncenterd in the wheel wells. If I could do it again I would go all porterbuilt suspension. His stuff is so well thought out its unreal. I have 1 porterbuilt peice on my truck and its use to adapt my rack and pinion to my spindles and everytime I look at that porterbuilt peice I kick my self. I will get u some pics of my rear...lol
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:16 PM   #3
SCOTI
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockb1 View Post
I am looking to use my stock trailing arm system. I was thinking of z'ing the frame and running the bags off of the trailing arms to the newly located frame. Has anyone done this? Photos, or advise?
How low do you want to go?

As Hellbent mentioned, the stock arms seem crappy compared to Porterbuilts upgraded parts.... but they're better than most other aftermarket stuff w/some simple tweaks. The I-beam construction & front rubber bushings on the OE arms allow twist & moderate flexibility. Most aftermarket truck arms are just boxed or tubular arms w/poly bushings. IMO, that's just not a good idea for these trucks as binding would happen sooner than w/the OE set-up. Boxed or tubular T/A'a w/spherical bushed ends like PB's or Hotchkis tighten things up while offering more flexibility.

The simple fix on stock arms is some stitch welds every few inches (& @ the front/rear) to prevent them from ever splitting. Then add some new front bushings to replace worn parts.

Z-ing the rear rails is pretty straight forward. Raising them up 3" w/a small step notch will plant the frame rails. Pretty easy re-using the OE system compared to designing & building a new rear clip. A new rear clip can be designed to be advantageous as well. My old beater had the stitch welds & new rubber bushings, CPP c-notch, 1.5" blocks, & bags mounted directly (no brackets)....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:34 PM   #4
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

New chassis built for my 64: 3" Z'd rear OE clip, flipped front T/A mounts, PB T/A's, & bags mounted w/top hats to dial in the exact height desired. Ride height = 4" @ bottom of frame rail @ front cab mount & 5.50"/rear cab mount. 1" off the ground when air'd out (by design).
Last pic is ride height....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:13 PM   #5
rockb1
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

I want the rear pan to almost touch the pavement, thats what I'm going for. I was only planning to z the frame, or back half it with no notch over the axle. Just something simple and straight forward. I will look into porter built trailing arms.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:42 PM   #6
oldman3
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

Scoti, that's a sweet chassis....Jim
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:04 PM   #7
rwade
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

Scoti, I'm assuming the spacers between the crossmember & trail arm mounts are to center the wheels in the bed opening?
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:22 PM   #8
SCOTI
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

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Originally Posted by rwade View Post
Scoti, I'm assuming the spacers between the crossmember & trail arm mounts are to center the wheels in the bed opening?
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Yes.

Without the body on there, I'm not sure where it needs to be. Based on other builds, I'm guessing it needs to be shifted rearward about an inch. Those spacers got the chassis assembled & rolling. I'll tune it once the body is swapped & make solid spacers the exact dimension required.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:23 PM   #9
Bazooka
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

Anybody else?? Would like to see more setups with stock trailing arms. I know there is a ton out there. post um if you got them.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:30 AM   #10
SCOTI
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Re: Photos using stock trailing arms

Dino's latest build....
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__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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