86 Silverado K20 12V CUMMINS Build

[brimc]

So this project started off 2 years ago and has taken a few twists and turns up until this point.
I started off just wanting to do a basic "rebuild" after I purchased this truck off of Kijiji.



I went and looked at it twice, then drove it home. Looking back now, I should have put it on the road first as it drove real good. According to the paperwork, it was only about 3 years and 12,000km since it's last safety with alot of new parts in the front end and brakes. But I tore into it right away instead.
It had a "built" 350sb with 4bolt main, bored .030 over with flattops, cam etc etc. It had the very common "farmer" 4spd and NP208 TC. Full Silverado interior that was in good shape which was a selling point for me also.



It was very muddy / dirty and the "16" on the glass is a hint as to why.

It started off with alot ( I mean ALOT ) of cleaning with the preasure washer. Then off with the Box



Stay tuned....More to come!

[brimc]

So after the box, I got the front end off. The inner fenders are keepers and the outers are rotten on the bottom inside. Time will tell if I will attempt to repair them or replace them.



Then after stripping out the interior, I made up a simple cab lifter for my shop hoist and a cab dollie out of 2X4's

[brimc]

So at this point, again more cleaning by the kid with the pressure washer.



Then started stripping the frame of all exhaust and drive train.



Now just before we pulled the engine we drained all the gas and ran it dry. For some reason I decided to compression check all the cylinders. Well this was the first surprise. All had between 175~180psi except #5. It had 65psi. CRAP.
Tore into it right away...



Yup, that is cracked piston between the rings and broken rings. Double CRAP.
Oh well back to the frame...

[brimc]

Next thing was get the frame stripped of all the not needed brackets and the axles. The plan at this point was to still use the existing drivetrain and rebuild the frame up with new components and paint.



Got the axles out then setup for removing springs and brackets.



Moved the frame away from the house and spent a complete day taking turns sandblasting the frame with my son.
Note: I have no desire to ever do this part again.

[brimc]

The next day my son decided to take on the 10 bolt. He got it broke down and ready for paint.











At this point it was time to start thinking about paint. I have spent many hours researching and while there are many different ways to go I decided to go the POR15 way.
Felt good to see the first part of the project with some color and no rust.

[Zane M]

Looking good. You went in both feet first on this one!

[meatwagon83]

nice progress, keep it up!!

[brimc]

Originally Posted by Zane M

Looking good. You went in both feet first on this one!

Thanks. Ya both feet or head first? haha

[brimc]

So like I said before, I went with POR15. I will not go into a lot of detail on it or even pro / cons but, It is very time consuming and a Must to do all the prep as described.
Here is the frame after all the prep and rusted back up before 2 coats of gloss black por15.




Also at the same a getting ready to paint the frame, my order from Rough Country came in.





4 inch All spring system. 4 springs, 4 shocks, steering arm, U bolts etc.

[6BT 56]

Looks like your off to a great start . I have seen this truck before it lived just down the road from me . What are your cummins and driveline plans for it? Where does the truck live now ?

[brimc]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Looks like your off to a great start . I have seen this truck before it lived just down the road from me . What are your cummins and driveline plans for it? Where does the truck live now ?

Thanks and yes you would be correct. The truck according to the history I have, it lived in Orillia between 98 and 2007. The truck was re-done in 98. It changed hands 2 or 3 times till 07. Someone bought it and re-did allot of the mech to get it to pass safety. It has only approx 12,000km since then till I bought it. I did not realize how good it was until I tore into it. It would have easily passed again with mininal work. It drove real nice down the road at 100k. Even the E break works and the cables still look new.
The Truck now lives in New Lowell and in undergoing a full frame up.

As far as driveline goes, the plan as of right now is a 1997 P-Pumped 12 valve. Getrag360 and possible divorced NP205. If not, then a just a 1st Gen 360/205 combo. I already have a good getrag 360 2wd. I have all the swap parts needed except TC. The 10 bolt front and 14 bolt rear, the rear 4:10 detroit locker, will stay for now. This truck will be on-road only with just 4wd for snow roads. No heavy duty off-road.

[brimc]

Well after thinking about for a long time, I decided not to spend any $ on the small block. Even though it was still a good setup with the cracked piston. It is amazing that it didn't let go and do damage. The cylinder was in perfect condition.



So instead....hmmm, I have this sitting in the driveway doing nothing.



An original 1 owner 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT 4wd club cab long box with 287,000km. Blown rad, blown auto tranny, every steel line rotten, total front end srewed, needs total and everything to do with breaks. Fenders rotten, doors rotten, floors-rockers-cab corner rotten. Basically needs everything and anything to get even close to road worthy.
So then, that's it. Pulled the plug. Sold everything in Kijiji that I didn't need or want for the 350 4spd 208 TC.



Then started this....











NOTE: If you pull the rear valve cover and rocker assy, you can pull the 12V with the bumper and the hood still installed. You just have to shift it slightly to clear the Xmember.













It was hard and easy. Did it by myself.
Stay tuned....

[brimc]

So I was in the middle of searching Kijiji for parts and such and a came across this guy that was parting out a 93 2wd. All he had left was the complete engine/trans combo with low miles and recent getrag360 rebuild. After a couple emails back and forth, the seller agreed to separate the engine from the rest of the package. Now I really was looking for a 4wd setup but this sounded good as my 1st plan was go divorced TC. I went for the 45 min drive. Glad I did. After separating the engine, I picked up the eng adaptor, bellhouse,flywheel, complete clutch including all the pedals and hydraulics, complete driveshaft, trans xmember, good denso starter, and the recent rebuilt transmission. Time for pictures....













Got all that for 500 bills. Looking back now I am kicking myself I didn't take the 12Valve also.

[brimc]

So next was the cleaning and inspection process of the trans and related parts.



Started by separating and scrapping the adapter, bell and trans.









Everything came apart and checked out good inside the trans. Bearings, gears, shims-freeplay all good.



Prepped for POR15.



Sandblasted the adapter and bellhousing, came out good.





Now it is cleaned up enough for mock up in the freshly painted frame!

[6BT 56]

Yep got to love kijji . It never gets turned off in this house !!! Have bought and sold more stuff off there. Truck is coming along nicely. I just did a cummins conversion on mine this winter . Best thing I ever did . Check out diesel wrenchers thread , V rig if i recall. Its a 85 burb he just did . Super job on it.

Keep up the good work .

[6BT 56]

Hey have you asked around ? Can you use the 208 behind any of your current setups?

Not the strongest t c on earth but should do the job /

[brimc]

Yes I have checked out all the diesel builds. They are all very good, and informative!
I had considered using the 208 behind an NV4500. That is still a great option, but not now. I sold off the 208. I want a 205. I've still got time to figure that part out. Divorced 205 is my first choice. If I can't get that, then a 205/getrag 4wd combo will go in.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great work you're doing here! I had plans to do a ZF5 and divorced NP205 in my brother's 84 K20. I ditched the divorced tcase idea because the drive line angles weren't that great at all. His chassis was already painted and such. So on yours, if you cut off the spring perch mounts on the rear axle, you can set your pinion angle where you want it and get it pretty close I bet. Keep up the good work!

[brimc]

Thanks for the feedback. I have been reading your builds/threads. Very interesting and good information also!
I think I will end up using an original 1st gen 4wd getrag/205 combo. That seems to be most reasonable as many have done when keeping a pass side drop in the old Chev's. For now I will continue on with the 2wd rag. It will be easy at any time to convert my trans with a 4wd shaft and tailhouse and 205.
If I can find parts and such or complete 205 for a divorced setup for reasonable money, well we'll see.

[6BT 56]

Whats your 81 militairy truck all abt ? Theres a 76 down the road from me that still has all the original equipment on it . I was thinking how cool a 4 in lift and a cummins would make it !

[brimc]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Whats your 81 militairy truck all abt ? Theres a 76 down the road from me that still has all the original equipment on it . I was thinking how cool a 4 in lift and a cummins would make it !

I bought that 81 back in 1988. It was bare bones K20 350 4spd 208.
It had the full canvas back with the 2X8 benches in the box. It was a cool truck with only 100,000 and it needed nothing to safety. It lived it's short military life in Kapuskasing, Ontario at the CFB there. I lifted it with 4inch body and 6inch spring lift with 38inch gumbo's. Then ran it hard with my buddy's. Had it until 91~92 till I traded up to my 72 1/2 ton.



Mine on the left, and the first, 1st GEN Cummins on the right 1 week old in 1988 !

This is 6inch only, no body lift and 33inch tirea

[brimc]

So back to the build.
I got the front and rear axles temporary installed with the new springs for mock up. I leveled the frame, side to side, front to back, to begin the more interesting stage of this build which is fabricating new engine mounts.



I installed the chev mounts back on the frame to see if they would be any good to use. ( turns out no, didn't want them )
I started off marking the front support for clearance cut for the balancer.

It's a little hard to see but that small hole in the center lines up perfect with the crank/driveline/14Bolt.





So then I temporary mounted the adaptor and bellhousing in preparation to set the engine into the frame.





So then I lifted to little engine assembly into place. I removed the front balancer to clear the xmember. I wanted to first see how things lined up before I cut it out.







Once I confirmed things like the Vac/Hydro pump and turbo would clear I started pulling/holding the engine into place using ratchet straps.







I used the old xmember and wood to hold to weight in the rear and a block of wood and floor jack on the front. This made it easy to raise/lower the drive angle as needed.





Front jack. Also note the large amount of oil pan clearance!





Lots of starter clearance.


Driveline angle mockup.











With the straps and blocks and lift all pulled tight, this thing isn't moving.
Now it's in the right spot, time for the mounts to be fabbed up!

[brimc]

So at this point I decided to keep the 2nd Gen engine mounts on the block and fab up connecting brackets to the frame. I also want everything to be bolted/removable ie: no welding to the frame.
Also was surprised when the stock 1st Gen trans xmember was almost a perfect fit AFTER setting the driveline position.



I had to cut about 1-1/2 inch off each end to make it fit perfectly.







This xmember works great as it will allow exhaust pipe clearance as well.
Factory trans mount lines up perfect as well.



Next was a lot of deep thinking on how to setup engine mounts. I have spent several hours, maybe days, researching this.









So I came up with this great idea using some box board from old cereal boxes. I started large and cut my way down until I could actually bolt it up to the frame and mounts.











It got it pretty close and I was happy with what I got.
So Then I went and bought some metal.

[brimc]

I went to "Barrie Metal Superstore" ( what a place ! a must for us small guys needing metal ) they will cut to order what ever you want big or small and great price!
Started off with a 6 foot piece of 4inch 3/16. I think this is thick enough. Anything bigger is overkill for on-road DD like I am going for. If I was going hard core, off-road I would have boxed the frame and gone bigger/thicker/stronger.



I started off by cutting off 12" and temp bolt set to the inside frame rail using the templates I had already created.









Some adjustments were necessary because I didn't take into consideration for the 3/16 thickness compared to the box board. Notice the oval hole in the template now.



I used the box board to copy over to the metal. Then used that to create a mirror image to come up with front/rear.







Next I moved on to the other side using the same method.





No drill press at home. Could have used the workshop at work but it worked out alright, Started small then worked up to final sized bit.









Bolted the two together to finish sand them to make sure they look the same when bolted up.









So I clamped and bolted them into position on both sides at the same time. Then I reconfirmed positions etc and tack welded them together. For some reason I didn't get any pictures of that.
Here they are all mocked up on the bench. Now they just need reinforcing and final welding at work using a "real" mig welder as mine is just the toy version.





See my "toy version" mastercraft $500 welder on the floor.





Its starting to get into the interesting stage. The end of this post brings me up to March 13. I still got lots of progress to post from the last 3 months or so. I hope others will find this usefull, even if it is in some tiny little way. I know I have learned alot from reading these forums!
Stay tuned.....

[brimc]

So it's like 40`c in the Garage. It's hotter than Might as well keep going on this build thread.
I pulled the motor back out and started on the front xmember.





I cut out the clearance trying to stay as smooth and even as possible.





Put the engine back into place to check. Looks good but not enough. (better than too much) I will need to cut more.








No, all that weight is still on the hoist !

Take 2.


Back to the motor mounts. They need to be re-inforced. I used some 1" angle on the inside and more 4" plate top and bottom. Then an additional angle on the top.





















The bracket still needs more welding but you can get the idea.
The other side the about the same. You can see the supports a little better before this side gets welded.







Stay tuned......