Turns farther to the right

[JointTech]

I changed steering gear (and all suspension and steering parts) this weekend.

The truck now turns much farther to the right than it does to the left.

It also drags the drivers front tire on tight turns in the parking lot.

what did I screw up? Is this something fixed by an alignment?

[TBONE1964]

I would not worry about it but get it in for alignment as soon as possible. You have probably got the steering box off center somewhat and that will cause you toe to be off.

Try counting the turns of the steering wheel lock to lock and then put the wheel in the center. For example, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then count how many full turns of the wheel it takes to go all the way to the right. If it is 4 turns, then your center would be 2 turns. If you have it centered at 2 turns, look at the position of the tires, they will probably not be centered. You can correct this by adjusting the tie-rod sleeves. I would just let the alignment shop do it since you need to have them align it any way.

Good luck.

[BlackedOut67shorty]

Make sure your drag link isnt upside down. I did it with mine and I almost didn't realize it
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[JointTech]

strangley its only 3.5 turns lock to lock. this is a reman gearbox from cardone. I thought factory was 4 or more turns lock to lock.

anyway... I need to find a good pic of the drag link. I wasnt sure on that when I was putting it back in but I figured if everything connects it must be right. But I have been known to be on the wrong side of the 50/50 chance more than once.

parts store guy is saying the pitman arm is probably off by a spline.

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by JointTech

strangley its only 3.5 turns lock to lock. this is a reman gearbox from cardone. I thought factory was 4 or more turns lock to lock.

anyway... I need to find a good pic of the drag link. I wasnt sure on that when I was putting it back in but I figured if everything connects it must be right. But I have been known to be on the wrong side of the 50/50 chance more than once.

parts store guy is saying the pitman arm is probably off by a spline.

OK so 1 3/4 turns back should be center. Does the pitman arm have a flat (index) to make sure it only goes on one way?

Get your steering wheel centere(1 3/4 turns) and see where your tires point. Did you replace tie rods and sleeves on both sides and are the adjustments equal left to right?

[JointTech]

i replaced tierods and ball joints and adjusting sleeves, pitman and idler. The tierods are not equal side to side. I had to do some adjusting. Im completely maxed on the drivers side.

the pitman does have notches at 90 degrees.

so I think ill center the wheels and then unhook the pitman from the gearbox. Spin the steering wheel to the left until it matches back up with the next notch and see what happens.

[kwmech]

Pitman arm won't matter, if it was off nothing would fit. I would center the wheels and the steer box with the center link still connected and also with the tie rod ends removed at the wheels. Then adjust them to fit the hole. This should get you close to get to the alignment shop

[Longhorn 70]

I did a disc conversion and steering box at the same time. It was a mess to get it all back and happy but this worked for me. Also mine is 2wd so maybe easier?

Centered the steering box between locks with drag link installed.
Set the front wheels with full weight on them as centered as I could with a tape measure measuring to the frame then to each other.
Put the tie rods together and installed them without moving wheels or steering
Then tweaked each tie rod evenly until the steering wheel shaft center was straight up.
Then drove to the alignment shop.... I was 1/8th off on toe and .5° on caster. (Camber was another story due to new spindles.)

[Rufton]

I would verify pitman arm is centered first.

[JointTech]

thanks for the tips guys. The more I think about it the more I decided im sick of being under the old girl right now. Spent the last 4 days working on the steering/suspension.

sooooo.. AAA is on the way to pick it up and drag it to the alignment shop. I talked to the old guy this morning and he said he would work it all out for me

I feel kind of gimpy for giving up but oh well.

[SS Tim]

The thing to do when you are replacing parts like that is to make the new assembly as close to the take off as possible that way you don't get shifts and stack-up throwing you off. If you are reusing some parts I just use a soda case flat or some other cardboard and mark the inner and outer tie rod centerlines with a marker for each side then I can build the replacement up without trying to measure moving maybe greasy parts. Then if my toe is in or out a bit iti is easy to dial it back to close for a run to the alignment machine. Finally if there are assemblies that might be handed a spots of spray paint or wraps of tape can easily id the left tie rod assm and the left end of the center link. Mark them in place and take a picture when in doubt.

[JointTech]

well the alignment shop gave up. its aligned but still turns to far to the right. He thought maybe a bad steering box but I cant see that.
He said he pulled the pitman and centered the gear box and put the pitman back on and it still does it.

Anybody got a picture of the drag link? It was mentioned maybe it was upside down?

[JointTech]

from some pics i found online it looks like the draglink should flip UP on the ends. correct? Im going to go get the truck and will see what I did to mine...

[Lee H]

When looking straight on, the pitman arm and the idler arm mounting bosses should be pointing forward and slightly down. That's the orientation on my 72 with power steering. Looks like the shop maybe verified the steering box is centered, if that's the case and the tie rods are about the same length zerk to zerk and the relay rod is correctly orientated then you have a bad steering box. I would remove the pitman arm and verify center before returning it. If the tie rods are different length I would disconnect the pitman arm (completely) and idler arm, then with the wheels pointed straight forward adjust both tie rods to about the same keeping the wheels straight, then verify box is centered, then reattach idler and pitman. If its still off you have a bad box. To get the alignment close to get it back to a shop, just get a tape and measure from center of each tire and find/mark the center on the front crossmember before taking it apart. Good luck,
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[JointTech]

i dont think the centerlink can go in upside down because the taper on the holes would be wrong and youd never get the nuts on.
he mentioned a bad steering box as well. bah humbug. Its so hot today. Im going to wait till the sun gets lower and try your suggestion lee.
Oh and he said hed realign it for me after I swap the box for free.

[JointTech]

SO I saw another of your posts where you mention the tie rod nuts should face out. Mine face in.
so looks like you cant put it in upside down but it CAN go in backwards.











And the one image I could find of mine before I took it out looks like is opposite of the way it is now.



so i hope I dont beat my grease boots to death taking it out tomorrow. going to need to get the !@#$$%^#% pickle fork and pitman puller. arghhh

[Rufton]

Might wanna use a puller on tie rods to save boots.

[Lee H]

Not sure where you got those pictures but that relay rod orientation is back words. The mounting bosses for the pitman arm are tilting up and pointing backward.
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[JointTech]

First 5 are the truck now. Last pic is of the truck before I took it apart.

So its backwards. I wonder if that is the sole cause of the issue. I guess that's why they call it steering geometry.
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[Lee H]

Originally Posted by JointTech

First 5 are the truck now. Last pic is of the truck before I took it apart.

So its backwards. I wonder if that is the some cause of the issue. I guess that's why they call it steering geometry.
Posted via Mobile Device

Got it, yes it's in backwards and upside down. Didn't realize that was yours. Not sure it's going to solve your issue but does need to get fixed as a first step. I would buy some replacement boots, your going to need them if you use a pickle fork.
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[JointTech]

made some progress today. I flipped the centerlink around and adjusted the tierods so they are close to the same length. Seems to turn left and right the same amount now
still having an issue with the tire dragging on a tight turn. I think just on the left side. Not sure what to look at now.

[Lee H]

Great news! Verify it's turning near the same side to side and then take it to an alignment shop, it's ready to be dialed in. Good job.
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[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by JointTech

made some progress today. I flipped the centerlink around and adjusted the tierods so they are close to the same length. Seems to turn left and right the same amount now
still having an issue with the tire dragging on a tight turn. I think just on the left side. Not sure what to look at now.

You did good. if you look at the center link, (drag link or what ever you prefer to call it) you can see the obvious distance between the tie rod hole and the pitman arm hole is different as opposed to the tie rod hole and the idle arm hole. Now I am sure the tie rod nuts are facing opposite of the way they were, yes?

You will still get a little scrub on the tire when turning full lock. That is normal.

[JointTech]

yep laces out!!!! as ace ventura once said!! lol
yea the nuts are on the outside now.

so dragging on full lock is normal? Sounds like I just need to take her back to the alignment shop and have them button it up.

I measured from top shock mount to caliper bleeder at full lock on both sides and its within an inch on both sides. (i think) Ill confirm that tomorrow. Dang hot out there today. wife thought I was crazy.

thanks for all the help guys!!

[oldgold70c10]

When I converted from manual to power steering, I noticed the same thing as you-would turn to the right slightly more than the left. I never had the tire drag problem.
My box came from O'reilly's.

I can't remember if it was the same way with the manual gear or not.