How do I get that harmonic balancer off?

[pvienneau]

hello all, can I get some "how to" help on pulling the harmonic balancer so I can get to my timing gear cover off? It looks pretty easy from the shop manual but I am not sure about the bolt size going through the starter crank snout. Can someone please post a picture of a pulled Harmonic Balancer so I can see what it looks like and what to expect should come off.

Thanks

[Rufton]

I have a few pics of a 305E V6 crankshaft damper.
Pull and installation.

[mknittle]

With a harmonic balancer puller. really I am ton being a smart a.....

[pvienneau]

OK, I deserve that. Thanks

[pvienneau]

Will the snout come off with the balancer as well?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

hello all, can I get some "how to" help on pulling the harmonic balancer so I can get to my timing gear cover off? It looks pretty easy from the shop manual but I am not sure about the bolt size going through the starter crank snout. Can someone please post a picture of a pulled Harmonic Balancer so I can see what it looks like and what to expect should come off.

Thanks

What engine?

[pvienneau]

216 no mods.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

216 no mods.

Not sure what you mean by "I am not sure about the bolt size going through the starter crank snout"

Get a two bolt puller as picture above. A heavy hammer and a propane torch.

I would run a tap into the two bolt holes in the balance to clean out the crude.I believe they are 5/16 fine. Use grade 8 if possible. It makes screwing them in easier.

Run the side screws into the balancer evenly till you see them just come out the back. Spin the center bolt snug and make sure the cross it even with the balancer face. Pulling it off cockeyed makes it harder. Air gun the center screw till its very tight. blast the propane torch into the center hole where the bolt is for 3 or 4 minutes. Smack the bolt head with the hammer twice. Tighten again and repeat till it starts coming off. Don't hammer the tar out of it just two heavy hit at a time.

After removing about a 50 balancers this is by far the easiest way I have found. Don't spray it with anything it just make a mess and smokes badly while your working.

[pvienneau]

In the first picture above you see the center bolt going into the center of the crank, the 49s have the crank snout that lets you manually start the truck. Should the bolt fit down inside that snout/hole?

[pvienneau]

OK, got it all set up. One final question. How do I keep the crank from turning while tightening the pulley?

[dwcsr]

If you use an air gun it shouldn't be a problem but you can lock it up with a long extension between the bolts. if the pan is off then a piece of wood on one of the counterweights against the block.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

In the first picture above you see the center bolt going into the center of the crank, the 49s have the crank snout that lets you manually start the truck. Should the bolt fit down inside that snout/hole?

Yes the push bolt goes inside that. I for got some have that crank attachment

[OrrieG]

Or you can use some wood to catch the flywheel teeth and bellhousing.

[pvienneau]

Hi Orrie, the engine is on a stand without the BH attached. Wood inside the engine against counter weight and case?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

Hi Orrie, the engine is on a stand without the BH attached. Wood inside the engine against counter weight and case?

That will work.

You want the end of the "bolt" of the puller to but up against something on the end of the crank and not go in the threaded hole for the retainer bolt if the engine has a threaded hole. That would damage the threads.

Not all of us have air or an impact wrench but a good size ratchet or breaker bar or even a good size cross bar lug wrench should turn the screw in the puller easily enough.

I'd really hesitate beating on one with a hammer as you most likely will damage the damper and I have seen V8 dampers that a guy hit with a hammer and knocked the outside ring off but I have seen the rings pulled off by guys trying to use three jaw pullers on them tool. It's hard to keep a straight face when you tell a guy, no you can't put his damper back together for him and he has to buy a new one when he shows up with one he has pulled apart that way.

[OrrieG]

I have gotten pretty creative with big screw drivers and pry bars to hold the flywheel from turning. If you do it all the time you can make a toothed plate that bolts to the block and engages the flywheel. I have also put longer bolts in the clutch pressure plate holes and use pipe for leverage too. Beer and a friend are helpful...

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That will work.

You want the end of the "bolt" of the puller to but up against something on the end of the crank and not go in the threaded hole for the retainer bolt if the engine has a threaded hole. That would damage the threads.

Not all of us have air or an impact wrench but a good size ratchet or breaker bar or even a good size cross bar lug wrench should turn the screw in the puller easily enough.

I'd really hesitate beating on one with a hammer as you most likely will damage the damper and I have seen V8 dampers that a guy hit with a hammer and knocked the outside ring off but I have seen the rings pulled off by guys trying to use three jaw pullers on them tool. It's hard to keep a straight face when you tell a guy, no you can't put his damper back together for him and he has to buy a new one when he shows up with one he has pulled apart that way.

216's don't have a retainer bolt and by all means do not hit the damper you're hitting the drive bolt to shock the damper when its hot. And unfortunately unless you have the damper press they used at the factory you do hammer it back on

[pvienneau]

All, good news; the HB came off without issue once I used the recommendations by the message board members.

Mr48Chev - I could not detect any threads in the hole at the end of the crank so I used the center bolt on the puller with no cap. I got some metal dust due to the friction of the bolt using an impact. It was minimal dust.

DWCSR - the 2x4 did the trick to keep the engine from turning.

Cleaned up the timing gear cover with a wire wheel on the bench grinder and added it to the parts to be painted pile.

Thanks

[Rufton]

Sounds good.
Now you can to plan how to install HB.

[pvienneau]

Don,t tell me ---- thats a nightmare???

[Rufton]

It is easy but you need correct tool.
On the 305E I got lucky and the treads for puller happened to fit crankshaft.
If not then I could have found a long bolt and some spacers to draw it into position.
I don't like hammer method because it may not help thrust bearings.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Rufton

It is easy but you need correct tool.
On the 305E I got lucky and the treads for puller happened to fit crankshaft.
If not then I could have found a long bolt and some spacers to draw it into position.
I don't like hammer method because it may not help thrust bearings.

There are no threads on the crank to draw the damper on. 216 235 didn't have a bolt on damper. Its a hammer on deal. Use a 2x4 and a BFH. Or Drill and tap a 1/2 inch bolt hole

[Rufton]

Maybe you can brace rear of crankshaft to make it easier on thrust bearings.

[OrrieG]

REALLY big C-clamp?
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[Russell Ashley]

On old VW engines that was a ring on the crankshaft that was a tight friction fit. You could tap it off with a brass hammer but putting it back on was the hard part. I asked the local VW expert and he told me to put the ring on the stove burner and heat it up until (his words) a drop of spit on it sizzles. Not too hot but way too hot to handle with bare hands. You picked it up with pliers and dropped it right on to the crank and it would slide right into place. I was going to suggest this method of replacing the damper but then I realized that it would be too hot and might damage the seal. You might still heat it some to assist in getting it back on. In normal operation it probably reaches to 175 degrees or more so the seal should be able to take that much heat. I think I would put wheel bearing grease on the seal in any case as it is a high temp grease.