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07-09-2013, 10:01 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Normal il
Posts: 173
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Eaton rear/drums input.
Here is the background.
1964 C20 camper special. 292 4 speed swapped to 383 th350. 2 pc driveshaft and what I beleive is a eaton h072. 245/75/16 wheels/tires Got everything back together and have been driving it around but it is running a little high. at 50mph it is around 3000rpm. I figured it had a TALL gear since it had a camper but calculators bring it out to about a 5.62, ridiculous. I finally pulled the cover and the attached picture is shown. 36 teeth on ring and unsure on the pinion (cant see it). Trying to do the rotate and watch the driveshaft revolutions but found one drum is slightly hung up. I can still turn but it is noticeably harder than the other. my questions: -what are the possible ratios for this setup (4.11 4.56 or higher?) - how the heck do you get the drums off, have to take the axles out?? does that require just doing the bolts on the hub and then the two in the pumpkin? -general input is appreciated. flying solo here with just enough knowledge to be dangerous. thanks |
07-09-2013, 10:19 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 245
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Re: Eaton rear/drums input.
You got the ho52, it a full floater axles do the bolts in the on the axles and just pull them out or the is to holes with threads in to drive bolts in to push the axle out. Them once those are out you can need hub axle tool six or four slot not sure. Then you can take the hub off. The ho72 was one ton axle
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07-09-2013, 10:22 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Dallas, GA
Posts: 1,497
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Re: Eaton rear/drums input.
36/7=5.14:1. I run 235/85r16's (something like 4% taller) with a 4.10 third member. Runs about 2,200RPM @ 50. Looks nice, too. You can get a 4.10 third member for $100-200 on the net, shipping is $100-150. Supposedly most came in 67-72 auto equipped/BBC trucks, if you're looking in junkyards.
Yes, the axles need to come out, then you slide the whole hub/drum assembly off. (You have to mess with the wheel bearings) To take the axles out all you do is remove the 8 bolts from the axle flanges, the axles will just slide out. Be ready to catch the gear oil from the hubs, some will come out. Last edited by 66Submarine; 07-09-2013 at 10:29 PM. |
07-09-2013, 10:26 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Dallas, GA
Posts: 1,497
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Re: Eaton rear/drums input.
Also, you'll run a little more RPM than me, considering you're using a TH350. That's probably what's up with the erroneous 5.62:1.
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07-09-2013, 10:28 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 245
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Re: Eaton rear/drums input.
I going get some those 235/85/16, running 60@ 3100
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07-10-2013, 12:46 AM | #6 |
60-66 Nut
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,252
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Re: Eaton rear/drums input.
With the torque of a 383, you can go to a much taller gear. If you can find a Dana 60 from a '68-'72 C20 that came with a big block and auto trans, that should have 3.54 gears, and will bolt right into your truck. You could keep your 245/75R16 tires and have reasonable rpm's on the highway.
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