gm crate motor/long block question...

[draggin49]

Well, turns out the original motor in my truck has a number of damaged cylinders and some other internal damage.my mechanic told me that for all the parts/machine work/labor to make it all right/rebuild it id be better suited getting another motor.

Im a tad leary about buying a random used small block,

Was considering this :
the GM Goodwrench long block 350 engine was created as a drop-in replacement for 1996-2000 Chevy/GMC 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton applications. Its Vortec cylinder heads feature a swirl port design.Specifications2-Bolt Main Block (1-Piece Seal)Nodular Iron CrankshaftPowdered Metal Connecting RodsDished Hypereutectic PistonsCompression Ratio: 9.4 to 1Hydraulic Roller CamshaftLift: .414'' Intake, .428'' ExhaustDuration at .050'': 191° Intake, 196° Exhaust

Would this be a good option??

Since im going to now be doing a motor, im gonna do a 700r4 also
Is this something I should purchase freshly rebuilt/unused?
Or is it not too risky buying a used 700r4???

Appreciate the input !
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[MARKDTN]

You have to have a special intake for that OR even better buy the rest of the stuff and make it fuel injected.

On the transmission my opinion is buy the lastest core you can find and get somebody who knows what they are doing to rebuild it. It is critical that the TV cable be properly adjusted before you start it for the first time. If you did the Vortec fuel injection conversion, you would want a 4L60E instead of 700R4 and let the computer control it. In that case, good used is probably OK

[draggin49]

Thanks for clarifying.I need the older style 350 longblock. Just trying to figure out best bang for my buck. Im gonna see if anyone I know has a motor/trans setup but if not ill probably have to drop $$$ on a new long block
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[truckster]

The Vortec is a great option, in my opinion. You'll need a carbureted Vortec intake and a flex plate adapter if you're sticking with the TH350, but that's not a big deal. My truck is getting a Vortec with a Quadrajet and HEI. Of course, that's after I get all the painting and other stuff done.

[Tinkermc]

I would by a long block that has no need for a computer, & a transmission the same way.

[draggin49]

Its a bummer. I scored a c10 that had been sitting for 10 years. Only 48, 000 miles. Took it out to do all new gaskets and my mechanic spotted the bad news. Multiple cylinders had gouges in them. He said it looks like whoever worked on it back in the day wasnt careful , and stuff got in the internals.

Like he said he could slap.it back together but it likely would smoke.
I am planning on driving this truck for a bit then selling it.so im trying to be cost efficient
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[draggin49]

I am going carb'd on the small block, and would like to avoid fuel injection/computer controlled.
Not against that stuff, im just trying to keep it as simple as I can.
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[mmiddle]

The Vortec heads are a far better design than the older ones. Just make sure your intake is for a Vortec. A known-good used tranny is OK. The specs on the motor you posted are great for a daily driver. I think you can't go wrong.

[draggin49]

I figured the roller cam setup + vortec heads made it the superior choice.
I will just make sure to get a vortech intake and the right flex plate adapter to go with it.
Any suggestions on what carb to put on this motor?
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[Rufton]

I installed GM 4 bolt 5.7 vortec 12530283 in 1999 K1500.
Only cost $40 more than the 2 bolt 12530282.
4 bolt version has tougher valves and brass freeze plugs.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by draggin49

I figured the roller cam setup + vortec heads made it the superior choice.
I will just make sure to get a vortech intake and the right flex plate adapter to go with it.
Any suggestions on what carb to put on this motor?
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Unless you are trying to build a hotrod I would stick with the 260 or 290 HP crate motor and a Qjet carb. for around $2500 you will have a good all around motor that will get you around just fine. I spent almost $5000 and only gained 100 HP and 2 MPG over the 290 HP motor I had.

[LockDoc]

-
I put a Goodwrench crate 350 and a 2004r OD trans in the 69 Suburban. It was the 260hp longblock version and I have been very happy with it so far. The total for the crate engine was $1608.00 delivered to my door at the time I bought mine.

Rydell Powertrain/Total parts Solution, Waterloo, Iowa.

http://stores.ebay.com/Total-Parts-S...=p4634.c0.m322

LockDoc

[mmiddle]

Q-jet for sure Edlebrock performer with HEI. You just cant go wrong. A very good daily motor with plenty of power for normal use. The 700R4 will give you great MPG all making for an awesome truck.

[draggin49]

K, I want to make a list of the "vortec specific " items ill need to make this work in my c10 going the carb'd route.im should have a fresh/rebuilt 700r4 to bolt up to it
Trying to see what kinda price difference using the gm non vortec crate motor
http://paceperformance.com/i-6484484...te-engine.html

vs using vortec longblock 350 + all required additional parts to work in my c10

1)carbureted Vortec intake

2)flex plate adapter*

3) electric fuel pump (these dont have the spot to run a mechanical fuel pump right?
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[draggin49]

Well in my research/internet browsing I found this
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146377...-shipping.html
Suits my trucks needs, and will be simpler/need less additional items to work
Not going for high performance so this will be good enough
I still gotta buy the 700r4 and would like to do a 5/7 drop with 20's after the new motor/trans are in
Plus I think my friend has an hei, edelbrock carb and other accessories I can get for cheap off a spare motor that threw a rod
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[mmiddle]

Sounds like you have a winner!

For what it is worth, if they offer one with a 1 piece main seal go with that. The two piece seal is a guaranteed oil leak in 50K miles.

[draggin49]

Quick question,
Im gonna buy a 700r4 , if I buy rebuilt it has no converter.
What would be a good converter for the motor with the specs below???

Description

Pace Pac SBC 350cid 300HP Crate EngineThis is a great entry level replacement engine for older cars and trucks, and a great basic street rod engine. All of the parts in this engine are Brand New. Includes 1 year unlimited mileage parts replacement warranty.Specifications:*Power: 300 HP @5300 RPM, 356 ft. lbs. of torque @ 3700 RPMDisplacement: 350 CID, 5.7LBore x Stroke: 4.00” x 3.48”Compression Ratio: 8.5:1Recommended Fuel: 87 OctaneBlock: Cast Iron, 2 piece rear seal, 4-bolt main capsCrankshaft: Nodular IronConnecting Rods: Powdered Metal SteelPistons: Cast AluminumCamshaft: Hydraulic Flat TappetCam Lift: .443” Intake / .465” exhaustCam Duration @ .050”: 214 deg. Intake / 224 deg. ExhaustLobe Separation: 112 DegreeCylinder Heads: Cast Iron, 3/8” pressed in rocker studsCombustion Chamber: 76cc*Valves: .194” Intake/ 1.50” ExhaustRocker Arms: Stamped Steel, 1.5:1 RatioValve Springs:3911068Balance: InternalMaximum GM Recommended RPM: 5300Ignition Timing: Base 10 degrees BTDC, 32 degrees totalCylinder Head Notes: 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard, 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's.Engine Includes:• Fully GM assembled long block• Stamped steel OE valve covers• Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake Manifold• Oil pump, pick-up and oil pan• Front timing cover• 6” & 8” timing pointers for use with 2 O’clock mark balancers• Block is drilled for drivers and/or passenger side oil dipsticks, plugs are include
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[draggin49]

I know its not a high performance motor, more just daily driver so I figure best to get a converter that best suits its use/motor
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[mmiddle]

Well, I would say a stock stall replacement. In case you are considering a stall converter you need to ask yourself some hard questions.
1. what is my intended use
2. what is my RPM's at 60
3. What is the typical RPM range my motor sees?

Running a converter with "lock-up" changes this a little but not much.

Basically, if your 60mph cruise is 2000 RPMs and you have a 2500 stall you are slipping and building heat and throwing money in the trash.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by mmiddle

sounds like you have a winner!

For what it is worth, if they offer one with a 1 piece main seal go with that. The two piece seal is a guaranteed oil leak in 50k miles.

x2

[chiefcfd]

You should be able to run a mechanical fuel pump. Mine had a block off plate where the fuel pump mounts. I have the 5.7 330 HP version. I run the Edelbrock 1406 with HEI ignition.

[draggin49]

Now if I go crate motor/700r4 is it worth it to keep the original motor / trans and include it when selling the truck??

Or does it not really matter and I should sell the stock motor/trans to help offset the cost of the crate motor/700r4 since im on a budget?????
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[mmiddle]

I'm interested in this too. I know for Camaro's if you have an all numbers matching car is worth far more than a non matching car. But, I have never seen a truck advertised as numbers matching.

[Vintage Windmills]

I've seen trucks advertised that way and it is a factor for me when buying a truck. If I get the original motor I'm more likely to buy it and pay a couple hundred more. Many people don't care but some do

[trac209]

Just and FYI swirl ports are not vortec and use a diffrent intake then gen 1 sbc. Swirl port heads are also smaller valves. Just make sure you know what heads your getting.
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