Taking out the gas tank?

[In The Ten Ring]

Well guys, thanks in part to the help here, I now have the seat out of the 1972 Custom 10. Now for the gas tank....

There is a lip on the fuel tank filler neck, outside of the truck. How do I get that to pass through the grommet?

*Do I just use some soap as lubricant?

*My grommet is 41 years old now....do I replace it? If so, how?

[gale]

I recently took the tank out of my '67 C20 and the neck just slipped through the grommet. Perhaps the tanks are different but mine doesn't have a lip outside the grommet.

My '54 has a fill spout that separates from the tank.

There must be a way to remove the lip on yours.

I keep Murphy's Oil Soap around in a spray bottle mostly for mounting motorcycle tires but I used it on that grommet also.

[68gmsee]

You can use liquid detergent or petroleum jelly. I like electricians silicone. I have a large bottle of it and works really well on the grommet.

If the grommet is cracked and/or basically breaking apart, replace it. However, be aware that some of the new ones deteriorate after a few years. I got the last one from Classic Hearbeat and so far it's held up.

The last time I did mine, I cut the outer lip with one of those sheetrock retractable knives then pushed the rubber in and cut it off. You can then push the new one in carefully with wooden spoon or similar after you coat it with petroleum jelly, silicone or soap. New ones are more pliable so the neck should slip in easier.

[brian1971]

I removed the tank from my 71 last week,ended up cutting the seal.You can find a nos one on ebay for around $16-18 shipped.Thats what I did bought a new nos seal.Good luck

[In The Ten Ring]

Not too excited about having to cut up the grommet but if it has to be done......

What is best when replacing the tank: put the new grommet in first then put in the tank or put the tank in first then put in the grommet?

I assume the latter?

[gale]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

You can use liquid detergent or petroleum jelly. I like electricians silicone. I have a large bottle of it and works really well on the grommet.

If the grommet is cracked and/or basically breaking apart, replace it. However, be aware that some of the new ones deteriorate after a few years. I got the last one from Classic Hearbeat and so far it's held up.

The last time I did mine, I cut the outer lip with one of those sheetrock retractable knives then pushed the rubber in and cut it off. You can then push the new one in carefully with wooden spoon or similar after you coat it with petroleum jelly, silicone or soap. New ones are more pliable so the neck should slip in easier.

Petroleum products deteriorate rubber. Silicone makes it really difficult to paint without "fisheye" problems. Murphy's Oil Soap is vegetable based and available everywhere, even the supermarket.

[franken]

Try to save the grommet!
The Asian rubber ones fall apart in no time in the Texas sun.
Really. 40 year old USA rubber is better than new Asian rubber (sorry).

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by gale

Petroleum products deteriorate rubber. Silicone makes it really difficult to paint without "fisheye" problems. Murphy's Oil Soap is vegetable based and available everywhere, even the supermarket.

Good to know. I used the silicone but the truck was already painted and I just wiped and washed it off.

Originally Posted by franken

Try to save the grommet!
The Asian rubber ones fall apart in no time in the Texas sun.
Really. 40 year old USA rubber is better than new Asian rubber (sorry).

If it's the original, the old grommets are hardened and start to oxidize. Some replacements do that in a few years and smear black cr@p on your hands and paint. The last replacement I got from Classic Heartbeat 3-4 yrs ago so far has been good.

[Steve Cole]

Try some R U Glyde, best rubber lube on the market.
Posted via Mobile Device

[MikeyMan]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Not too excited about having to cut up the grommet but if it has to be done......

What is best when replacing the tank: put the new grommet in first then put in the tank or put the tank in first then put in the grommet?

I assume the latter?

Put the grommet in the cab first. The filler neck will slide through from the inside, just wiggle the tank around and push.
I applied armour-all on my grommet. Worked as a lubricant as well as protector.

Make sure you get the right grommet, confirm the filler neck size.
See this thread about year & sizes: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=26676

Agree about saving the original!
My 71, I was able to R&R the tank with the original grommet in place and had no issues.
My 72, the grommet was shot and I needed to replace it anyway. I bought a cheapie replacement. Then, with recommendations from the board, I bought one from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. I did not complete this job for quite awhile, and got the 2 grommets mixed up. Now, less than 6 months after the install, I've got crackling/dry rot near the top of the filler neck. I assume I put in the cheapie. Oh well, next time the tank comes out I'll put in the good one.

[In The Ten Ring]

oops, meant to say "former."

Thanks for all the advice!

[In The Ten Ring]

BINGO! Got the tank out about an hour ago....easy as could be! I used some penetrating oil on the bolts and dishwashing soap on the spout....it basically fell out on its own!

How do I take the fuel sending unit out?

Now I'll probably take the tank over to a shop for cleaning....anything special to look out for there?

What about Tuckers Classic Auto Parts for a new sending unit?

I think I'll go ahead and replace all my fuel line rubber hoses.....just in case.

Next job: blowing out the fuel lines.

[ChevLoRay]

Isn't there a locking ring on the sending unit/float ass'y? I didn't look at mine, so I may be speaking out of turn. But, there's usually a locking ring. Look at it and you'll be able to see that it will turn one way....usually to the left.

[PatrickGMC70]

I think the locking ring turns to the left (counter-clockwise). They make a tool to remove it, but you can just tap on it with a screwdriver or a punch to turn it. Ideally, you would use a brass tool to eliminate any chance of sparks while doing this, or just wrap the screwdriver/punch with electrical tape. Can't be too careful.

[gale]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

BINGO! Got the tank out about an hour ago....easy as could be! I used some penetrating oil on the bolts and dishwashing soap on the spout....it basically fell out on its own!

How do I take the fuel sending unit out?

Now I'll probably take the tank over to a shop for cleaning....anything special to look out for there?

What about Tuckers Classic Auto Parts for a new sending unit?

I think I'll go ahead and replace all my fuel line rubber hoses.....just in case.

Next job: blowing out the fuel lines.

Once you have the sending unit out just shine a strong flashlight to look for rust at the bottom seam. Light rust is no problem. You could pour a gallon of phosphoric acid in and let it sit an hour or even days as it will only attack the rust. Rinse that out and it's clean enough for gasoline.

Nearly all of the parts sellers have sending units and they aren't expensive.

Good idea to go with all new hose. The ethanol laced gas eats up old rubber.

[MikeyMan]

Did your sending unit work before?
You can probably just clean & re-use it. Check the sock on the end, if it's still there. Check the float too.
I'm running with no sock as many others also do. I have an inline filter, as well as the in-carb one.
I had to replace my float. I went plastic, as I heard the brass sometimes had leak issues.

Lock ring, just tap on the tab(s) with screwdriver or punch & hammer to turn it counter clockwise. The ring will release, and you carefully lift the sending unit assembly up and out of the tank. You may have to turn and angle it to clear the float arm and pickup tube.

CAUTION- there is a rubber O-ring seal at the tank opening under the sending unit. DON'T lose it, especially if you send the tank out for cleaning. It's usually kinda stuck to the tank, but you can carefully peel it off and re-use it if it's in decent shape.
Remember, this O-ring is critical to seal the sending unit to the tank. You don't want fumes leaking inside the cab. I have re-used them before with no issues.

Definitely replace ALL the rubber hose while the tank is out. I've made a mess before, the section from sending unit to steel line along the frame. Gravity was not my friend. You may get a little gas that's still in the lines, so be careful of spillage!
Use good quality FUEL hose. As stated above, alcohol in today's gas is tuff on rubber.

[In The Ten Ring]

NOW YOU TELL ME! LOL. The sending unit did (largely) work before although I think it indicated less fuel than I actually had. Went on and ordered a new unit from Classic Parts.

Thanks for the advice on the new hose.....I hope Advance Auto is a good place for that as that's where I'm going today.

Why no sock?

[MikeyMan]

The original sock is crimped to the pickup tube. They sometimes deteriorate over time and are not really good anymore. Replacements were difficult to find, and not easy to attach to the pickup tube. So, most people don't bother and have had no problems as long as the tank is in good condition. Use an in-line filter that's easy to change.
Your new unit should have a sock on it (I hope) and will be fine.