Dead washer pump - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Justinjob · 07-03-2003, 06:42 AM

The washer pump in my truck is dead. Over its 30 some year life span the internal diaphram has rotted-and it seems that you can't replace that part of the pump. I was considering buying a new pump from LMC but am a little hesitant to spend close to 40 bucks on it. I've thought about looking at the local junkyard but haven't yet, I kind of suspect I'll just find more bad ones out there-but you never know I guess. Then I was thinking, hey-I wonder if that washer pump is unique to 67-72 trucks or if it was used on other later model vehicles, I may be able to find a good one from a newer vehicle out in the yard if that's true. Anyone know if that's the case or not? Or, any alternative ideas??

Maximum Overdrive · 07-03-2003, 07:19 AM

I have been collecting these trucks for over 20 years and I have yet to see one with a pump that works. Have seen that some buy aftermarket pumps to use from Napa though.

Lippyp · 07-03-2003, 07:21 AM

I just have a cheapo parts store special in mine, inside the cab. I look at it as a consumable item as they're only a couple of quid (few dollars in your terms) No idea what happened to the original, this was on their when I got the truck.

bobs409 · 07-03-2003, 07:34 AM

I was lucky with both of my trucks. Unusual but both work great!

I would price a new one at places like Autozone, etc. They aren't that much and you don't want to replace it more than once because of where it's located. :p

mtdave2 · 07-03-2003, 09:44 AM

if you need to know how to wire it in so you orginal switch works, let me know

mtdave2 · 07-03-2003, 10:03 AM

ok, poeple have asked so ill post it again.. to bad search is broke!

cdowns · 07-03-2003, 10:08 AM

i went for an original replacement you're not talking a high dollar item here 25-30bucks it's a little bit of a pain to change especially if you have a/c but i thought it was the best way to go

mtdave2 · 07-03-2003, 10:42 AM

OK, people have asked so ill post it again. To bad search is broke!

get the universal pump from the parts store, they come will all the connections for the water tubes and mounting.

mount in the engine compartment. they say to try to mount the pump higher than the reservoir, but i haven't had any trouble.

Plumb in the washer tubes, or what ever you call them. Its just a matter of cutting the old hoses going to the spritzles and putting in the T connector that comes with the kit. then you can pull the old tubs in thru the cab and trim them off.

here is the first Pict. if you open your drive door, and lay on the floor. you can look up and see the wiper motor, on the upper right (passenger)side of it, you will see this plug. ( the connector from pict 2 will be plugged into it) yank it out.. it can be stubborn but it does come out.

pict 2.

Just put a spade at the end of 2 wires of different color and plug them into the connector. Run the wires out to the new pump. dont connect them permanently yet, until you try the switch and your sure it works. If it doesn't work, just switch the wires around. there is one hot and one not. cant remeber what one is what. if you want to do it the right way, put a gauge to it. if you get it wrong, the pump just runs backwad lol. then just use a cable tie to keep the wires out of the way.

Thats about all there is to it. The first time I did this I took the dash out, but you dont need to. I will say that the hardest part is getting the connector out of the washer motor. I used pliers and pulled like hell. other than that its a breeze. I can do it in about 20 minutes!

400ex · 07-03-2003, 11:22 AM

I use the O'reilly special. Works good.

This comment is for Lippyp.. Yea, I used to watch Red Dwarf when it came on at 10PM on Saturday night on PBS. That was a funny show. My favorite line was from Lister when he said "Rimmer, you smeg head" I busted out laughing at that; of course a couple of beers helps too.

BTW, what does "smeg head" mean?

James

*rickspickuppart* · 07-03-2003, 12:23 PM

I have new pumps that are direct replacments for the original

mtdave2 · 07-03-2003, 01:04 PM

the original design sucks, the replacements are the same thing. So why bother?

Longhorn Man · 07-03-2003, 03:37 PM

I got one at wall mart of all places, wired it up pretty much like dave did, but under the dash right by the stock one. I tried it out last night for the first time (finally got a good charge on the batteryu). Bummer there are no wipers on the thing to wipe off the water now.

Justinjob · 07-03-2003, 04:03 PM

Okay, I went to the yard a couple hours ago and found a good replacement from a '72 GMC, fits, works and all! Only thing is, it won't turn off! When I turn my wipers on, it starts squirting and continues to do so until I shut the wipers off. Hmmmm.....I have it off of the truck right now and I'm looking at it, trying to figure out why this is. Any ideas?

cdowns · 07-03-2003, 04:30 PM

sounds like you either have it miswired or your switch is no good . to the washer pump should be a dark blue and yellow wires and to the wiper would be light blue and yellow and black wires

mtdave2 · 07-03-2003, 04:35 PM

either the switch is bad, or you have a short in the thing, making that brown (i think) hot. pull that plug off (the one in the photo) and see if one of the wires are hot. they shouldnt be untill you hit the switch.

jimfulco · 07-04-2003, 02:22 AM

Justinjob, the OEM pumps all seem to do that sooner or later. It's a design flaw in the pump mechanism. You can't get the parts to fix it any more, so I just use the little square universal pump.

Justinjob · 07-04-2003, 04:47 AM

sure enough, there is constant power running to one of those wires when the ignition is on, I believe it is two yellow wires running to one of the terminal sides. I've got an extra wiper switch, I'll try installing it tomorrow and see if there is a difference.

**PICKMUP** · 07-04-2003, 03:29 PM

That little electric pump works so well, you will wonder why you ever wasted the time fighting the original junk under the dash. It is easy to install and only pumps when you push the button (nice--it works with the stock button). This means you get water only as long as you need it and not 10-12 continuous pumps...like the stock system. You can't shut the stock one off!
Now...get one of those cheap little headlight buzzers, that hook to the fuse panel and save you battery, next time you leave your lights on---just another one of those cheap little tricks that works! OT, but seemed OK.

lpaine · 07-04-2003, 08:12 PM

Jimfulco- you can get a pump repair kit from LMC, about $10 I think.

nroden · 07-05-2003, 01:00 AM

I still have my original washer pump and it seems to work fine.... mine does run for a little while after you let off the button.

Longhorn Man · 07-06-2003, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Now...get one of those cheap little headlight buzzers, that hook to the fuse panel and save you battery, next time you leave your lights on---just another one of those cheap little tricks that works!

I always have these....and they have saved me a few times.

mtdave2 · 07-06-2003, 02:01 AM

how do they work? and what do you ask for at theparts store?

Longhorn Man · 07-06-2003, 02:18 PM

The buzzer has 2 small wires coming out, and double sided tape on the back.
The double sided tape is a no brainer...stick the buzzer someplace under the dash where the wires will reach the fuse box and stick it in place.
The 2 wires, one red and one white, is all there is to hooking it up. One wire goes to the fuse that controls the parking lights or dash lights. In our case, we have the terminal on the box that is powered from thew parking lights, so there is no need to loop the wire under a fuse.
The other wire goes to a circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch, wipers or radio is one they use for an example. Again, we have the IGN unfused terminal on our box.
When the ignition switch is on, the unit can not find a ground since both wires are hot. (headlights on & ignition switch on) Once the ignition switch is turned off, the IGN unfused terminal (or any other fuse controlled by the ignition switch) basicly becomes a ground, and if the lights are on, the buzzer turns on and buzzes.
It is a very simple instll, and the buzzer is so irritating, you'll remember to hit your headlights before the ignition switch becouse you won't want to hear it. (it isn't all that bad)

07-03-2003, 06:42 AM	#1
Justinjob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Edgerton, Wisconsin Posts: 25	Dead washer pump The washer pump in my truck is dead. Over its 30 some year life span the internal diaphram has rotted-and it seems that you can't replace that part of the pump. I was considering buying a new pump from LMC but am a little hesitant to spend close to 40 bucks on it. I've thought about looking at the local junkyard but haven't yet, I kind of suspect I'll just find more bad ones out there-but you never know I guess. Then I was thinking, hey-I wonder if that washer pump is unique to 67-72 trucks or if it was used on other later model vehicles, I may be able to find a good one from a newer vehicle out in the yard if that's true. Anyone know if that's the case or not? Or, any alternative ideas??

07-03-2003, 07:21 AM	#3
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	I just have a cheapo parts store special in mine, inside the cab. I look at it as a consumable item as they're only a couple of quid (few dollars in your terms) No idea what happened to the original, this was on their when I got the truck. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

07-03-2003, 07:34 AM	#4
bobs409 1969 Custom 30 wrecker Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Pottsville, Pa Posts: 2,611	I was lucky with both of my trucks. Unusual but both work great! I would price a new one at places like Autozone, etc. They aren't that much and you don't want to replace it more than once because of where it's located. :p __________________ Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10

07-03-2003, 09:44 AM	#5
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	if you need to know how to wire it in so you orginal switch works, let me know __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

07-03-2003, 10:03 AM	#6
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	ok, poeple have asked so ill post it again.. to bad search is broke! __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

07-03-2003, 07:19 AM	#2
Maximum Overdrive December 21, 2012 Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Black Eagle, Montana Posts: 1,634	I have been collecting these trucks for over 20 years and I have yet to see one with a pump that works. Have seen that some buy aftermarket pumps to use from Napa though.

07-03-2003, 10:08 AM	#7
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i went for an original replacement you're not talking a high dollar item here 25-30bucks it's a little bit of a pain to change especially if you have a/c but i thought it was the best way to go __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-03-2003, 10:42 AM	#8
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	OK, people have asked so ill post it again. To bad search is broke! get the universal pump from the parts store, they come will all the connections for the water tubes and mounting. mount in the engine compartment. they say to try to mount the pump higher than the reservoir, but i haven't had any trouble. Plumb in the washer tubes, or what ever you call them. Its just a matter of cutting the old hoses going to the spritzles and putting in the T connector that comes with the kit. then you can pull the old tubs in thru the cab and trim them off. here is the first Pict. if you open your drive door, and lay on the floor. you can look up and see the wiper motor, on the upper right (passenger)side of it, you will see this plug. ( the connector from pict 2 will be plugged into it) yank it out.. it can be stubborn but it does come out. pict 2. Just put a spade at the end of 2 wires of different color and plug them into the connector. Run the wires out to the new pump. dont connect them permanently yet, until you try the switch and your sure it works. If it doesn't work, just switch the wires around. there is one hot and one not. cant remeber what one is what. if you want to do it the right way, put a gauge to it. if you get it wrong, the pump just runs backwad lol. then just use a cable tie to keep the wires out of the way. Thats about all there is to it. The first time I did this I took the dash out, but you dont need to. I will say that the hardest part is getting the connector out of the washer motor. I used pliers and pulled like hell. other than that its a breeze. I can do it in about 20 minutes! __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban Last edited by mtdave2; 07-03-2003 at 10:45 AM.

07-03-2003, 11:22 AM	#9
400ex Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Damon, Tx Posts: 56	I use the O'reilly special. Works good. This comment is for Lippyp.. Yea, I used to watch Red Dwarf when it came on at 10PM on Saturday night on PBS. That was a funny show. My favorite line was from Lister when he said "Rimmer, you smeg head" I busted out laughing at that; of course a couple of beers helps too. BTW, what does "smeg head" mean? James

07-03-2003, 12:23 PM	#10
rickspickuppart Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1,284	I have new pumps that are direct replacments for the original

07-03-2003, 01:04 PM	#11
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	the original design sucks, the replacements are the same thing. So why bother? __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

07-03-2003, 03:37 PM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I got one at wall mart of all places, wired it up pretty much like dave did, but under the dash right by the stock one. I tried it out last night for the first time (finally got a good charge on the batteryu). Bummer there are no wipers on the thing to wipe off the water now.

07-03-2003, 04:03 PM	#13
Justinjob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Edgerton, Wisconsin Posts: 25	Okay, I went to the yard a couple hours ago and found a good replacement from a '72 GMC, fits, works and all! Only thing is, it won't turn off! When I turn my wipers on, it starts squirting and continues to do so until I shut the wipers off. Hmmmm.....I have it off of the truck right now and I'm looking at it, trying to figure out why this is. Any ideas?

07-03-2003, 04:30 PM	#14
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	sounds like you either have it miswired or your switch is no good . to the washer pump should be a dark blue and yellow wires and to the wiper would be light blue and yellow and black wires __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-03-2003, 04:35 PM	#15
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	either the switch is bad, or you have a short in the thing, making that brown (i think) hot. pull that plug off (the one in the photo) and see if one of the wires are hot. they shouldnt be untill you hit the switch. __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban



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07-04-2003, 02:22 AM	#16
jimfulco Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Shreveport LA Posts: 3,170	Justinjob, the OEM pumps all seem to do that sooner or later. It's a design flaw in the pump mechanism. You can't get the parts to fix it any more, so I just use the little square universal pump.

07-04-2003, 04:47 AM	#17
Justinjob Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Edgerton, Wisconsin Posts: 25	sure enough, there is constant power running to one of those wires when the ignition is on, I believe it is two yellow wires running to one of the terminal sides. I've got an extra wiper switch, I'll try installing it tomorrow and see if there is a difference.

07-04-2003, 03:29 PM	#18
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,129	That little electric pump works so well, you will wonder why you ever wasted the time fighting the original junk under the dash. It is easy to install and only pumps when you push the button (nice--it works with the stock button). This means you get water only as long as you need it and not 10-12 continuous pumps...like the stock system. You can't shut the stock one off! Now...get one of those cheap little headlight buzzers, that hook to the fuse panel and save you battery, next time you leave your lights on---just another one of those cheap little tricks that works! OT, but seemed OK. __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

07-04-2003, 08:12 PM	#19
lpaine Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Parksville, B.C. Canada Posts: 637	Jimfulco- you can get a pump repair kit from LMC, about $10 I think. __________________ 1969 G.M.C 3/4 Ton 920 (Canadian Version) 307 3 speed, currently apart 1998 Chevy 1/2 ton ex cab V-6 5 speed 1967 Chevy SWB - project truck; not started just yet

07-05-2003, 01:00 AM	#20
nroden Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 1,098	I still have my original washer pump and it seems to work fine.... mine does run for a little while after you let off the button. __________________ Nick Rodenberg 72 Cheyenne 10 V8 350/TH350 white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!!

07-06-2003, 02:01 AM	#22
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	how do they work? and what do you ask for at theparts store? __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

07-06-2003, 02:18 PM	#23
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The buzzer has 2 small wires coming out, and double sided tape on the back. The double sided tape is a no brainer...stick the buzzer someplace under the dash where the wires will reach the fuse box and stick it in place. The 2 wires, one red and one white, is all there is to hooking it up. One wire goes to the fuse that controls the parking lights or dash lights. In our case, we have the terminal on the box that is powered from thew parking lights, so there is no need to loop the wire under a fuse. The other wire goes to a circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch, wipers or radio is one they use for an example. Again, we have the IGN unfused terminal on our box. When the ignition switch is on, the unit can not find a ground since both wires are hot. (headlights on & ignition switch on) Once the ignition switch is turned off, the IGN unfused terminal (or any other fuse controlled by the ignition switch) basicly becomes a ground, and if the lights are on, the buzzer turns on and buzzes. It is a very simple instll, and the buzzer is so irritating, you'll remember to hit your headlights before the ignition switch becouse you won't want to hear it. (it isn't all that bad)

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