Cab to frame bushings.

[In The Ten Ring]

I've read a lot on here and even pinned and printed some threads on it. I hope to get started on these bushings within 2 weeks.

I think I have it down but I may need more direction.

1). Do one bolt a time, one side at a time. That's both driver's side cab bushings then the driver's side core support bushing?

2). Do the same but to the passenger side.

3). Use a 4x4 block and jack under the cab/core support lifting just enough to take pressure off the bushings.

4). Front cab bolts welded.....I plan to remove the nut on the bottom first then use my dremel tool on the tac welds.

5). Wire wheel rust from the frame and coat with POR 15 or something like it.

6). Am I missing anything?

7). I printed out a diagram off of here and plan to put my Classic Heartbeat parts in like old ones came out.

[TexasLS1]

I'm a rookie, gonna watch this thread for info... Thanks ITTR for getting some info together!
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[hugger6933]

Do one side at a time if you just try one bolt at a time I would fear that your not gonna get enough slack to change the bushings because the other bolt that will be holding will be keeping the cab from raising high enough. I have not used this method on a truck of this age just one of a newer generation say 88-98 and 99-07[ I build those from wrecks for a living]. Now when I have removed the cab mounts on the body style we are talking of here 67- 72 I have removed all of the hardware at once and removed the whole cab with a two post lift so that is no help to you. So I would loosen the front bolts then remove the left ones jack up that side replace that side then do the opposite, then do the front bushing last, with everything still loose then with all the pressure off the jack that you used to lift with then you can start to get everything back into place if it slipped. A couple a weeks ago I responded to a post about getting the sheet metal back into place. If you look back through my old post from a couple of weeks ago it may help you or if you cant find it and you get stuck in trouble holler at me and I see what I can do fer you. Jim

[leftybass209]

I would agree with one side at a time. However, I just did this swap 2 days ago. I put the cab on the frame with NO bushings, then did it one at a time. The cab will align itself and is really easy to maneuver. Just thought I would share that so you know its really not hard, or too big of a deal.
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[airdale94]

I just did mine also. I did the front core supports first about a year. Then did the cabs last week. I did one "side" at a time (excluding the core). Took bolts out on one side. The fronts have the nut on the botom and the rears the bolt head is on the bottom. The nut is caged on the rear support and is in the cab behind the gas tank. I removed my gas tank expecting the worse but it is caged really well and the bolt came right out.

[BrianG]

Can I add into the question??? Does it matter if you are using the original style or poly?

---- Also would like to know some of your opinions of poly vs rubber

[In The Ten Ring]

Dang laptop! I typed all that up and BOOM it gets deleted! Yet, I never cursed. :-)

From what I have read on here, the rubber ones are the way to go as the newer poly ones transfer too many shocks to the driver/riders from the road.

OK....so....I can remove them all then replace them one at a time.

OR

I can jack one side of the cab, remove, replace that side, lower down....jack other side of cab, remove, replace that side, lower down.

Jack core support, remove both, replace both, lower down.

Check body alignment and tighten.

How's that sound? Apparently there is leeway enough to have two ways of doing it?

What torque does each nut or bolt require?

[MikeyMan]

Originally Posted by airdale94

The fronts have the nut on the botom and the rears the bolt head is on the bottom. The nut is caged on the rear support and is in the cab behind the gas tank. I removed my gas tank expecting the worse but it is caged really well and the bolt came right out.

Keep soaking the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil well before you start.

I had problems with the rear caged nut(s). Instead of the bolt coming out from the bottom, it pushed the caged nut and rotten floor up. There wasn't a lot of solid metal floor under my gas tank.

This one hour job turned into a two-day-er. Had to pull the seat and gas tank. I never knew about the rot and holes because it's under the tank. Ended up just making patch panels and angle brackets to piece the cab floor back together. Also cleaned and painted the exterior of the gas tank. It wouldn't have been too much longer before the gas tank rusted through from the bottom.

[airdale94]

Originally Posted by MikeyMan

Keep soaking the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil well before you start.

I had problems with the rear caged nut(s). Instead of the bolt coming out from the bottom, it pushed the caged nut and rotten floor up. There wasn't a lot of solid metal floor under my gas tank.

This one hour job turned into a two-day-er. Had to pull the seat and gas tank. I never knew about the rot and holes because it's under the tank. Ended up just making patch panels and angle brackets to piece the cab floor back together. Also cleaned and painted the exterior of the gas tank. It wouldn't have been too much longer before the gas tank rusted through from the bottom.

If I wouldn't have pulled my seat out first and gas tank, that would have happened to me.

[JointTech]

my rear cab bolts were cake. came out with impact gun. the fronts took a 4ft breaker bar on the nut and the bolt, some pb blaster and some heat. Didnt even have to cuss them.
I havent attempted the core support yet.
theres no way you can do one at a time on the cab supports. you have to do the whole side.
i just impacted them on until the rubber started smooshing out like it was good and tight. the rear bolt i think went all the way to the end of the threads.

[In The Ten Ring]

Now that I have reached a decent stopping point with the new fuel lines, I am going to get back on these cab-to-frame bushings. WISH ME LUCK!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

No need to disconnect anything other than cab bolts? Don't know how high these need to be lifted. I wouldn't think much or you'll jack something up.

I didn't know heat was a method for removing stubborn bolts. Maybe that combined with liquid does the trick. Good to know.