cutting bed wood grooves

[retired1]

I'm getting ready to cut the grooves in my wood for the metal strips and I was noticing there is a difference in measurements between GMC Pauls and Mar-K. Such as GMC Paul lists the total width as 3/4" and Mar-K shows 9/16.
Anybody have any input on this, which is right? Actually it seems to me that one is too large and one is too small. Thanks.

[mr48chev]

I'd think you would have to lay the boards in place and set one or more of the strips in place with the bolts down between the boards. Then figure out exactly where you need your grooves. I'd imagine you could play with it on the bench with a strip a few bolts and a couple lengths of scrap wood to figure it out also.

Going back and looking at GMC Paul's page http://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm it appears that they are allowing some room for board movement with the way it is set up. It looks like Mar-K is calling for a bit more space between the boards than GMC Paul does. http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/PDF/Ins...Dimensions.pdf They also set their strips slightly higher than GMC Paul does.

Now I really would set the boards in place and space them out and see how much space I had between them when they were evenly spaced and go from there. I learned a bit on this one.

[1956chevtruck]

Originally Posted by retired1

I'm getting ready to cut the grooves in my wood for the metal strips and I was noticing there is a difference in measurements between GMC Pauls and Mar-K. Such as GMC Paul lists the total width as 3/4" and Mar-K shows 9/16.
Anybody have any input on this, which is right? Actually it seems to me that one is too large and one is too small. Thanks.

I cut them once I had metal strips in hand and I could compare the actual size requirements.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by 1956chevtruck

I cut them once I had metal strips in hand and I could compare the actual size requirements.

I think that the metal strips are all 1-1/2 inches wide. After doing some homework I figured out that the two vendors call for different spacing between the boards for expansion and contraction of the wood.

[franken]

So wood from different vendors expands and contracts differently?
If 3/4 and 9/16 seem too large and too small, why not split the difference at 5/8 or 11/16? Another smiley...

[retired1]

Thanks for your input.

[franken]

I sense you didn't find the humor there...

[mgeez]

I spent the last 3 of 4 days fitting my own oak and purchased bed strips from mar-k. I planned this in my head for weeks. Wasted time thinking!
What I ended up doing is dado'ing 3/4", 3/16" deep on the edge of each board. I then trimmed the board width, so the dado'd portion woul get to around 1/2". That way a tight fittup was made to each metal strip. so what if there is a gap between boards, because the gap is covered by the metal strip. I used all even width boards. It was a lot of trial and error. All my board widths were about the same +/- 1/8".

[_Ogre]

i used 5/4 boards that are 1'' thick and used these dimensions on 5.25 wide boards
my boards are trex plastic decking so i did not leave room for expansion
these dimensions leave the strips a little down from the surface so the painted strips don't get scratched

[mgeez]

[QUOTE=_Ogre;6228635]i used 5/4 boards that are 1'' thick and used these dimensions on 5.25 wide boards
my boards are trex plastic decking so i did not leave room for expansion
these dimensions leave the strips a little down from the surface so the painted strips don't get scratched



I made a test run on my table saw with the 1/16" x 3/16" wide groove specified on your dwg. There was no visual difference when bolted into place with or without this groove, so I omitted that groove. Had my table saw been 100% and my dado sharper, I probably would have put that groove in anyways. I chose not to use carriage bolts. I am using button head bolts instead.
I also used 1 x 1 x 3/16 angle iron for the ends, recessed into the wood 3/16". I attached this angle to the wood and sides using countersunk socket bolts for a flush fit. The bed sides were a bit wavy, so I needed some extra strength. When bolted, the sides were perfectly straight. The thinner repo'd piece would not have given me the strength I needed to pull the sides straight.

[OrrieG]

I think the deeper groove was intended to channel moisture to the ends and provide a stop incase the wood did start moving. If you cut perpendicular slots the same depth as the deep groove the water will run out the botttom and not to the ends reducing a chance of rust in the end sills. Also my original wood is 3/4" thick and is relieved at the inner fender panels and ends. Using thicker stock will raise the inner fenders and might put the mounting holes for them out of alignment (Fleetside). Orges method preserves the strips at the expense of the wood it you use the bed for more than lawn chairs. They were raised so you could slide wood, plywood, boxes, etc. across the bed without wearing down the wood.

[gale]

Originally Posted by retired1

I'm getting ready to cut the grooves in my wood for the metal strips and I was noticing there is a difference in measurements between GMC Pauls and Mar-K. Such as GMC Paul lists the total width as 3/4" and Mar-K shows 9/16.
Anybody have any input on this, which is right? Actually it seems to me that one is too large and one is too small. Thanks.

I think GMC Paul relied on people to send him measurements from their trucks. If that's true then some may have measured the wood and guessed at what was under the metal strips.

I have Mar-K wood for 2 trucks stacked in my garage. One truck is a '67 LWB stepside and the other is a '54 3100. I can go measure them if you like. I did this once and my widths were different than GMC Paul's. All boards are 3/4" thick.

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by mgeez

I also used 1 x 1 x 3/16 angle iron for the ends, recessed into the wood 3/16". I attached this angle to the wood and sides using countersunk socket bolts for a flush fit. The bed sides were a bit wavy, so I needed some extra strength. When bolted, the sides were perfectly straight. The thinner repo'd piece would not have given me the strength I needed to pull the sides straight.

I removed my original angle strips and flip them over to the opposite side below and had the wood sit on top of the strip and then new SS angle strip on top. That way the wood is supported from below and the SS angle strip is covering the bed/wood gap.

[gale]

[quote=mgeez;6228659]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

I also used 1 x 1 x 3/16 angle iron for the ends, recessed into the wood 3/16". I attached this angle to the wood and sides using countersunk socket bolts for a flush fit. The bed sides were a bit wavy, so I needed some extra strength. When bolted, the sides were perfectly straight. The thinner repo'd piece would not have given me the strength I needed to pull the sides straight.

You used the angle iron for the ends but attached to the sides. I understand the purpose to hold the side panels straight but "for the ends" has me confused. Can you post one more pic of what you did at the ends?

[mgeez]

[quote=gale;6229332]

Originally Posted by mgeez

You used the angle iron for the ends but attached to the sides. I understand the purpose to hold the side panels straight but "for the ends" has me confused. Can you post one more pic of what you did at the ends?

Poor choice of words on my part. Sorry. I was referring to the "end" board, or the board against the bed side. I took a poor quality pic of what I did at the tailgate end of the boards. I did the same at the front bed panel where the board ends meet. I dado'd a 1-1/2" x 3/16" deep channel and laid a flat bar stock, 1-1/2" x 3/16", in with the countersunk bolts. I am only in the initial fit-up stage, and once i actually tighten down the fasteners, the gaps and scratches will be gone.