1947 Chevy Truck Hotrod

[Angryman117]

Been looking at info on the site for a long time now. Tons of good information here. Thought I would try to contribute some now!

Picked up 2 47 Chevy pickup's for $1500 at the beginning of the year, have some pictures located some where on my computer.

My plan is to use the stock frame and axles with a 5.3 engine and 700r4 transmission.

More to follow.........

[Angryman117]

Getting the engine set in place.

[Angryman117]

Stock exhaust manifolds would not work. Was told that C-5 corvette manifolds would fit, so I found some on Ebay. Not much clearance (about 1/2 inch on each side) but they do fit.

[Angryman117]

Custom exhaust. The front part is also from a C5 corvette that I modified to fit. The back is from my 96 Chevy truck that I had custom build, and put the stock exhaust back on when I sold it. The picture shows the driver side a little off, but that got fixed.

[Angryman117]

Making the frame look good!

[Bubba54]

Welcome to the site, looks like a nice start.

Shawn

[Angryman117]

Thanks, Should have some more updates this weekend. Hopefully I get the rest of the frame coated this weekend and start putting all the pieces back on.

[chev3600]

Nice truck. I think you'll really like the 5.3. What are your plans for the fuel tank?
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[Angryman117]

The fuel tank will be going under the bed, not too keen on having 20 gallons of gas in the cab with me. I am looking at using a 73-81 GMC/Chevy Suburban Blazer 31 Gallon Fuel Tank or a mustang style flat top tank. I would like to put it under the front part of the bed and have the filler come out on the drivers side box. However it will depend on how much clearance my exhaust will allow. I would like to have a spare tire holder under the back of the box like the newer trucks today. Should know in a few weeks if time allows and the wife/ 5 month old kid will let me work on the truck.

[Angryman117]

Update:
Got done coating most of the frame and the rearend. Still need the U-bolts, but held in place by c-clamps for now. Also got running board and cab mounts back on the frame and the exhaust in place. Here are some pictures.





Next I will be sanding, priming, painting and installing the running boards.

[Root2812]

I am looking forward to this build.

So you are going to use the original straight axle in front? If so I assume a disk brake upgrade is coming to help slow it back down but are you planning anything for the steering? Maybe a stabilizer? I drive my AD and I have to herd it down the road at 50mph and the steering gets scary. I can't imagine that at 75mph.

Thanks for you tips in my LS swap thread. I am going with the same motor/tranny set up so I'll be asking you lots of questions.

[Angryman117]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I am looking forward to this build.

So you are going to use the original straight axle in front? If so I assume a disk brake upgrade is coming to help slow it back down but are you planning anything for the steering? Maybe a stabilizer? I drive my AD and I have to herd it down the road at 50mph and the steering gets scary. I can't imagine that at 75mph.

Thanks for you tips in my LS swap thread. I am going with the same motor/tranny set up so I'll be asking you lots of questions.

Going to stick with the straight axle, yes plan on doing disc brakes. However there are not many kits out there for 8 lugs, so I plan on copying the system from my 2006 GMC 2500HD and making it work. As for the steering I was thinking about using a rack and pinion kit, there are a couple out there, and I am told the help with the bump steer quite a bit.

Looking forward to watching your build as well, hopefully we can give each other pointers.

[ghettoluxury]

Rack and pinion steering will not work on a solid axle. It will cause more bump steer because the axle and tie rod will never travel on the same plain. You may want to look into a steering box from a 73-87 4x4 truck that mounts on the outside of the frame rail. Another option would be a jeep steering box bit would require the use of a boxing plate as it mounts to the inside of the frame.

[Angryman117]

Had a fairly productive weekend.

Got the running boards back on the frame, need to be touched up with some paint, or might get them line-x coated.





Installed the transmission cross-member.



Installed the engine cross-member and put the engine in.





Exhaust manifolds installed.





Pictures of the exhaust installed and motor in the frame.





Note: The drive shaft is not installed. It will need to be shortened 1.5 inches before I can install it.

[Angryman117]

Got the front suspension mostly installed this weekend.
Still need to make mounts for the sway bar, and install the all the steering parts. The stock 5.3 oil pan fits perfect, does not hang below the cross member at all. Also got my 4L60E installed that I picked up for $350.
More pics to follow.

[ghettoluxury]

Looking good. I see you decided to use 73-87 front suspension.

[av8tr33337]

Looking good. I almost used the C10 front suspension but decided to do an S10 chassis swap instead. I noticed you used washers for spacers between the IFS and the frame. It might be just fine, but down the road it wouldn't be to bad to put a couple of plates of steel in there just to give them more contact surface. Did you use all grade 8 Bolts and stuff? Not picking your work apart at all man it looks great, just want it to be as safe as possible. I actually cut my C10 IFS in half and took out and inch, welded it back together. Bolted it in. It was ok, but I decided I would want something to sit a little lower.





Before sliding it completely together. I welded 3/16 plate inside, and planned on plating the outside to before I went with the S10 chassis swap.









I ended up selling it for scrap nobody was interested in it.

[Angryman117]

Ghetto its from a 77 3/4 ton. I wanted to use the 8 lug setup because the po put a eaton ho52 rear axle in it, and I got some sweet American Racing rims for free from my brother. I was thinking about using the stock front end on it, but could not find a bearing conversion for 8 lug hubs, and wanted something to handle better on road trips.

AV8er, thanks for the info and pictures. I am just using washers and stock bolts that I pulled of the 77 for now. Eventually I will put some steel plates it and all grade 8 hardware. Next I will have to figure out where to mount the steering parts and hopefully start on the cab next month.
Any and all info in appreciated!

[ghettoluxury]

Ya as of now it looks like this is the only option for ifs with 6 or 8 lug rotors. Porterbuild street rods is currently designing a bolt in ifs for these trucks right now though.

[Angryman117]

Made some progress tonight. Swapped out my 700r4 transmission shell for a 4L60E and installed a transmission cooler that I pulled from a 2000 Yukon Denali for $17.




Found a upper radiator hose that fit, its and extra I had for my 78 Toyota pickup the lower hose.




Also modified the thermostat housing so I could rotate it about 90 degrees counter clockwise.






Also made a block off plate the the EGR hole in the intake. Took the old one and cut the pipe off, took a think piece of rubber I had and epoxied it in.

[Root2812]

That looks great. I like the air cleaner. I want one like that. Where did you get it and how much did it run you?

[Angryman117]

It is a Spectre filter, you can get them from most autopart stores. I found this one in a box of stuff that I have, don't remember where, when or how much I paid for it. I won't bealbe to run it in that position anyway, it rubs on the top idler pully. Just have it there for now to keep crap out of the intake. Plans are to put my MAF in there somewhere, get a 90 degree elbow to the passenger side then the Air cleaner.

[Root2812]

Thanks. I like the look of the air filters that come right off the throttle body like that but I only see people using the elbow and straight section set up on the ls motors.

[Angryman117]

It is ALIVE!!! Here is a link to a short video of it running.
At first I could not keep it running, then I remembered I was still on a stock tune. So I rebuild the OBDII port then copied the tune from the ECM deleted the vats and some emissions crap, put the new tune in and she fired right up!

Once I get the drive shaft, fuel tank and lines installed I can finally start on body work. Not sure if I should do the box or cab first.

[Root2812]

That is awesome. Did you program the computer yourself? Was the software expensive?