16 volt battery and alternator

[68 C-10 KID]

Is the 16 volt a better set up than spending the big money on these high dollar alternator that put out 180-200 amps at low speed idle?https://www.dcpowerinc.com/ or HO alternators
I run a electric fuel pump, water pump and electric fan. At idle the alternator will barely charge when the electric fan kicks on and it lowers the the engine RPM so much it almost makes the motor die. I have the correct diameter pulley on it and its a 150-180 amp set up.

What do you guys run for a charging set up?
Thanks.

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[vht]

Don't know about using it on the street, but I put a 16 volt system on my last dragster. First time you hit the starter button it almost scares you. I was on alky and it started twice as quick. I didn't run a alt, and I'd go 3 rounds sometimes before I'd charge.

[68 C-10 KID]

That sounds awesome. It would be choice if the 16 volt is a streetable system. I'm not sure what it would do to all the light bulbs for prolong use. I think MSD is capable of both volts.
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[vin63]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

That sounds awesome. It would be choice if the 16 volt is a streetable system. I'm not sure what it would do to all the light bulbs for prolong use. I think MSD is capable of both volts.
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For the cars that I built that saw street/strip duty and the customer wanted a 16v system, I used the dual post 16v batteries that had a 12v post for the rest of the electrical system. Otherwise, you'll have to use a step-down box.

Question on the situation that is lowering your idle, are your big amp accessories on relays?

[68 C-10 KID]

Yes, the fuel pump and electric fan are on relays. Water pump is not.
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[vin63]

Try putting all of the big amp accessories on relays to see if that helps. I ran two 2300 cfm 12" PermaCool fans, Product Engineering 310 gal/hr fuel pump, Meziere water pump, 7AL3, line lock, and trans brake on a 12v system with a small Jones Racing alternator (65 amp) in Super Gas/Street and had no draw issues.

[68 C-10 KID]

Okay. Good deal. Did you have it all mounted on a little panel to make it look good or do they have a multi unit relay ?
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[vin63]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

Okay. Good deal. Did you have it all mounted on a little panel to make it look good or do they have a multi unit relay ?
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I had the relays mounted relatively close to the accessories. I also brought two positive cables forward from my battery: one for the Ford solenoid mounted inside that controlled the starter; and the other to an insulated terminal for the accessories. This arrangement allowed me to eliminate a bunch of positive leads/connections at the starter. I also did something similar for my grounds.

[vht]

Instead of a ford solenoid, I used a HD 1 that a friend that has a starter shop gave me. That's a good deal, I done it so there wasn't any current on the bat cable unless the starter was engaged. That way I didn't have to worry about the cable shorting out to the chassis down track. I would go with the bat that has the 12v post. I run my W/P, dash lights and fan on 16 volts with no problem but they weren't on for a long length of time. Sure made a difference in the fan!

[68 C-10 KID]

Oh man I need to read up on how this ford solenoid and relays are to be wired up properly.
I might have a project on my hands this winter.
I'm a big dummy. My black magic electric fan does not have a relay its just a controller box.
So I will be ordering up a painless relay kit.
Thanks guys.
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[vin63]

Here's a simplified diagram that should get you headed in the right direction. Since it was a race car, I didn't have a fusible link, but just had a separate positive terminal for my fuse block, control panel, and other accessories. Also, I mounted my remote starter solenoid inside to keep it away from the heat. I installed a quick disconnect at the firewall for the lead to the starter solenoid for easier engine removal.

[vht]

I had my disconnect switch located up in front close to the battery so I wouldn't have any bat cables running to the rear. I ordered a long cable, from control cables, and run it up through a chassis tube to a lever I made on the disconnect switch. Use a hi amp disconnect swith if you install 1.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by vht

I had my disconnect switch located up in front close to the battery so I wouldn't have any bat cables running to the rear. I ordered a long cable, from control cables, and run it up through a chassis tube to a lever I made on the disconnect switch. Use a hi amp disconnect swith if you install 1.

I didn't have a battery cable switch up front but a quick disconnect lug like this one, http://www.jerrybickel.com/batteries...-jbrc5529.html
so there was only one cable going to the starter with no other connections. The rest of my engine wire harness was on a mil spec twist lock connector, making for only two quick disconnects for the entire wiring in the engine bay. For us drag racers, we have to have a master cut off switch in the rear of the car/vehicle.

[68 C-10 KID]

This is all great stuff. How about I buy a Jerry Bickel race truck! Lol I wish.
So this brings up another question. For us street and strip guys that run alt. what is the correct way to run your wiring off of a on/off switch. I just relocated my battery to the rear frame rail. I was thinking should installer use it as a ground to kill power or use it as a power off?
How to kill the alt power correctly.
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[vin63]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

...I was thinking should installer use it as a ground to kill power or use it as a power off?
How to kill the alt power correctly.
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The master cut off switch has to disconnect the positive. This means the alternator wire has to be connected on the battery side of the switch...

[68 C-10 KID]

Vince, your are a champion my friend thanks.
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[vin63]

My pleasure...nobody should go through some of the trial and error failures I went through in the early part of my career. Anything to help this process easier to get people back on the track sooner.

[djracer]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

Okay. Good deal. Did you have it all mounted on a little panel to make it look good or do they have a multi unit relay ?
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A guy on yellow bullet makes a really nice relay set up. I have one and I will post a picture




Roll Tide
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[68 C-10 KID]

Smokes that is a nice unit. All types of go fast.
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