What is the best way to set up coil truck for dragracing?

[Terry'sToy]

I'm going to be converting my truck to do mostly drag racing. It's coils all around and other than drag shocks what can I do?

Thanks
Terry

[cableguy0]

ditch the stock springs and shocks and run coilovers the suspension on these trucks is awesome for racing as it sits how fast do you plan on going

[SCOTI]

No front sway bar.
Front suspension travel limiters.
Big rear adjustable bar.
Air bags (to pre-load suspension).
Pinion shims to adjust pinion per track bite req's.
Drag shocks front & rear.
Drag front coils (Moroso trick springs).
Eliminate as much weight from as far forward as possible.
Stuff as much tire as possible under the bed.
Make sure the tire is a good, sticky tire.
Strong rear end (these trucks are porky).
Enough beer to have fun.

[Terry'sToy]

wow that was quick. cableguy0 do you mean front and back? I plan on running in the twelves or very high elevens. We'll see how things go.
Scoti, front susp limiters?? is this to limit the front end lift. If so then I know what you mean. also big rear adjustable panhard? Airbags on both rears? The rest I understand, especially the beer

Thanks again.

[bigjimzlll]

the front limiters actually dont allow for the front wheels to drop all the way of there travel(as in wheelie). With the right tires(MT E/T streets) you can go 11s with out suspension work. You do need to put the truck on a diet though. You will need a roll bar after 12.00

[Terry'sToy]

bigjumzlll, I have a set of 26x11.5x15 ET Streets from my car that I plan on using. I don't know if that is enough tire for the truck though. 11's without suspension work? Just drag shocks you figure or what?

[bigjimzlll]

on my last engine(just blew it up) I went 12.1x at 111mph with the stock suspension(lowering springs) With the new 385 I should be in the 11s. Im running et streets 28x11.5 and hook real well. I went 12.90s on the motor alone(no N20) on Friday..this was just a shake down pass

[SCOTI]

Yep, the limiters just keep the front from drooping & wasting your momentem.

An adj. sway bar out back would help with pre-load as well as help keep the rear from wanting to naturally twist. Air bags on both sides, again to adjust spring rates as well as pre-load.

I think a big thing w/these trucks that's overlooked is the pinion angle. Adjust it according to track conditions for more bite when spinning or less when bogging (if too much bite happens).

A strong motor. And . . .... lots of record keeping will help w/tuning what you have.

[67 SS]

The rear suspension of these trucks work great for racing.The control arms are kinda like a factory traction bars.

[Terry'sToy]

Thanks for all the replys guys. I'll make a list of things tonight and tomorrow I will get back to you. Can't wait to go go 11's on stock suspension and prove everyone out here wrong.

Terry

[Terry'sToy]

SCOTI, how much do I need to limit the front end travel.
bigjimzlll, I didn't really want to gut my truck, but I'm willing to get rid of some weight. What do you suggest to get rid of?

Thanks

[Terry'sToy]

OK hears the first plan.
-2/4 drop using drag coils up front (moroso)
-drag shocks (QA1's possibly for adjustability)
-adjustable panhard, new trailing arm bushings,
-adjust pinion angle after drop
-slicks and skinnies ( haven't decided on rims)
-tubular control arms (does anyone else make one other than ECE's?

How's that for a start? Any suggestions or changes?

Thanks

[SCOTI]

The adjustable panhard bar will get the rear centered after it's lowered but you might still consider an adjustable sway-bar to help combat the natural twisting motion the driveline follows.

Most of the time when you see one of these trailing arm trucks actually hook up, you'll notice it's the pass front wheel only coming off the ground because of the driveline twisting. Ideally you want to prevent this unwanted motion & transfer it to the ground, equally w/both rear wheels.

If you've ever gone to one of the fastest street car shootouts you'll see alot of cars dragging the rear bumpers pulling wheelies . . .... but usually only on Fri night. By Sat, they're dialing in the suspension to work best w/the track (adj pinion angles, sway bars, pre-loads). Wheelies look cool but slow your times down. I'm not saying you must run out & get a sway bar or you won't run fast, but it's another thing to consider when tuning. Same w/shocks, the Qa1 adjustables are cool if you can afford them, but sometimes cheap old regular NON GAS front shocks & standard replacement gas rear shocks can work just as well.

It looks like you've got a solid plan started. Keep us posted on your track times, get a good baseline & remember to only change 1 thing @ a time so you can track the effectiveness of that change.

[bigjimzlll]

yup...what scoti said

[Longhorn Man]

New poly bushings are a must. They are stiffer than rubber. Something with rotted out bushings would not do to well. (just look at my ride)
I know this very basic, but for anyone else reading who is a beginer...or didn't even think about it.

[Terry'sToy]

Thanks again guys.

I meant to add sway bar, but my fingers and brain must have came disconnected. Good point on the shocks and bushings. I'll keep the new gas shocks on the back and change the fronts to something other than gas, maybe cheapy lakewood 3-ways or something. I'll look into airbags as I used them on my WS-6 for traction and they worked great. pinion angle is my only big concern. I was thinking of starting with -1 degree and see how things go. Any suggestions again would be great.

None of the companies make airbags that work with our coils. Any suggestions on how to do this??

Thanks again

[SCOTI]

Go to www.stockcarproducts.com for the pinion shims. They're notched on one side so all you have to do is loosen the u-bolts for the rear end then slip the shim in place & re-tighten everything.

For front end travel limiters, try using rubber traction bar snubbers or typical/cheap cone shaped bump stops @ the local parts store (since I'm an admitted cheap f**ker) under the front a-arms. Thread a coupler on to the bumpstop & space it out w/washers if needed.

And I agree w/longhornmail 100% on the urethane bushings & consider welding plates to the trailing arms to limit twist (although plates are now commercially available, I just welded the seams of my trailing arms as well as the mounts where they're riveted to the crossmember). I would try running just air bags & no coils for the rear. Run them independently to adjust pre-load side to side. Then you could even shim the bags if needed to get proper launch height when one side is running more psi than the other.

Damn . . .... I read entirely too much. I need to build my own drag truck! Hhmmm . . . ..... i've got that beater 68 that will eventually just be sitting around now that I drive the 74 everyday. . .....

[Terry'sToy]

SCOTI, thanks for the link. If I can't get them in town then I'll use them. Great idea on the limiters. The stock ones mount through a hole in the upper control arm so I'll use the same hole and build a jack bolt with a rubber stop. Another great idea for the control arms and mounts. I was thinking about just running rear air bags but wasn't sure. That may be the best of both worlds; ride height and adjustability for the track. I'll do some research.

Keep the good ideas coming.

I'm planning a junkyard turbo on the 350, any ideas or thoughts.

thanks

[bigjimzlll]

a good stall converter and a strong tranny are a must..make a few calls locally to tranny shops...see which one can tune up your junk yard tranny

[SCOTI]

Research, research. Go to the local track & look around. There is usually lots of guys that will tell you who they use for their tranny. Watch & see how they run. Get phone #'s.

For these trucks, BigjimzIII seems to know it takes a little more convertor to get 'em moving good.

[Terry'sToy]

Oopps I meant that I was planning on building a turbo setup for the motor. The trans will be either a 700R4 or a 4L60. I already have the convertor. It's a Yank super thruster 3500.

[UNCLEBOB]

I been racing my truck for a couple of seasons now its a coil spring truck lowered with the shocksand springs for lowering, stock rearend setup. It always 60s in the 1.7 area with drag radials so i would not spent any money on it till you try it at the track. I have removed front sway bar but I don't think it makes much difference.

[Terry'sToy]

1.7 60's is pretty darn good. I think I'll take your advice and see what happens. What type of motor trans rearend combo do you have?

Terry

[383 Stroker]

My truck 60ft's in the high 1.70's on slicks. It's a coil spring truck lowered.

[Terry'sToy]

unclebob and 383 stroker, what size rear tires and rims are you running?

Thanks