60* vent temp with sanden compressor & Parallel flow condenser

[dakattack7]

I'm a little confused here, I just spent the last couple months redoing my entire ac system. It consists of sanden compressor, parallel flow condenser from classic auto air, the POA delete valve from old air, and new expansion valve. I flushed the evap with some store bought flush and compressed air from the gas station.. It was recharged with 2.6 pounds of r134, and he added the oil then too. What could be my problem? It is only about 90 here in AZ, which is almost cold for me lol, so its not like I'm complaining about 60* temps when its 120 out.

I'm thinking I should switch to an orifice tube set up.. and should have done that in the first place, but when i bought the POA update I wasn't planning on doing the whole system.

Could it be over or undercharged? He also only ran a 10 minute vacuum, i wanted longer but he assured me it was holding vacuum and long enough.

I don't have gauges to check the pressures so if someone suggest that, I'll have to go back to the shop and have him check. I also bought a little 7 inch fan to wire to kick on when the ac was on, but it's almost winter so I left it off for now. I sprayed the condenser down with water and didn't notice a difference in temp, but I didn't actually check with the thermometer so i don't know. Let me know if you can think of anything, Thanks!

Before vs after

[Andy4639]

A couple of things to check and conceder. By your pictures u have no fan shrould. U need one for AC trucks.

Now for the temperature check the heater valve and make sure it's shut off completely. Easy way to check is turn the AC on let it sit cooling then reach over to the passenger side and feel the box under the glove box. If it's got any heat at all to it it's leaking by and you will never cool down good. Put a manual shut off in line.

134a freon will take less amount than the stock r12 took for the same size system. So check that. I would also have a longer vacume done on it. I would do at least .30 minutes.
U may want to do this mod as well to help with it. I did it and mine is awsume cool now. I filled all the way around the radiator with black foam to create a straight path through the radiator from the grille area so the air couldn't go around it and through the shroud. Also look at these for even better cooling inside the cab.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522878

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=475972

[marvgarr68]

Charge it to the pressures. That compressor takes a different amount then the old one. You want 35 on the low no more trust me on this even if he says 40/45 is ok its not. The reason for this is Freon expands in heat. I work on trucks ac systems all day in the heat it works great and yes no less then 30 min vac. Look me up I'm in Arizona also so I know heat. I bet if he hooks up the gauges the system is high which is bad on comp and fuel economy.
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[71meangreenc10]

Think about putting an electric fan on the condensor also.


Smitty

[truckdude239]

Any system open to air should be vacummed for at least 30 mins you dont vacumm it to see if it holds you put a vacumm on the system to boil and suck the water out of it
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[dakattack7]

Okay. All good ideas and basically what I was thinking. Ill update if I find anything.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Did the compressor come with instructions? The two sandens that I've installed came pre oiled and stated specifically to not add any additional oil to the system.

[Bigdav160]

Good point on the oil. Every new compressor should be drained of it's factory fill oil. Even when they are labeled "shipped with no oil" I check them. I have found some filled when labeled otherwise. Sanden's use 46 viscosity pag.

I don't believe vacuum has anything to do with your problem. Once you hit 30in/hg there is no moisture in the system. If you have all new parts like that, there's no oil for the moisture to boil out of.

The 80% rule goes out the window once you updated the compressor and condenser.

If your oil level and refrigerant levels are correct I would suspect the expansion valve. If you have the inclination, many expansion valves are adjustable. There is an adjustment screw in the inlet.

[dakattack7]

The compressor said it was shipped dry. So The next thing is the amount is probably wrong, I just used the the factory 3.25, 80 percent= 2.6. I'll take it tomorrow and have him charge by pressure. What should I aim for, 35 low and what high, thanks

[Bigdav160]

I should add, your pics don't really show the drier & condenser well.

Make sure the inlet-outlet connections are not reversed

[ERASER5]

The high pressure is load dependent. Low load (less heat to remove) lower pressure, high load (lots of heat to remove) higher pressure. The real number you want is Sub-cool. You need 10 to 20° of sub-cool calculated from condenser outlet temperature and high side pressure. This means that the hot gas has condensed and become liquid at the lower part of the condensing unit. This is paramount. This allows the expansion valve to do its job and keeps the suction pressure at the proper levels. It is a balancing act. When done correctly, birds stop singing because they are too cold. Icicles form on your nose. And you can see you breath. OK, maybe I am exaggerating a bit there, but you get my drift.

[marvgarr68]

The answer to your question is 35 on the low and around 175 high but the high is different with different conditions but 35 on the low
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