So which would you recommend?

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I'm still pondering on which chassis to go with. My build is a '47 COE, that being said I have no chassis at all for it right now so all options are on the table. It will be a mid mounted engine set up so anything I get will require major mods.
Option 1: I'm considering a late model 1500 GM, that would get me the 5.3/4L60E combo I want plus a lot of donor parts I could use. On the down side I would still have about another 1000 in the motor to set it up like an LS-1 (I will need the low profile arrangement) I also don't know for sure how hard the steering hook up will be. A good used 1500 runs about 4000 to 6000, plus getting the engine set up mid engine 500 to 1000, plus extras to get it on the road 4000. Total: 9500 to 12000.

Option 2: A mid 80s GM C-10 or C-20, these can be had less motor and trans for 300 to 600 (keep in mind the body doesn't matter), with this a used LS-1/4L60E 3000 to 4000, plus fuel system 600, plus additional wiring 300, plus all the extras it takes to get some like this set up in a virgin chassis 500 to 1000, plus extras to get it on the road 4000. Total 8700 to 10500.

Many have done the mid 80s chassis and it can be made to work very well.
For the late model chassis used on a COE I can find no info for anyone who has done it on a AD body style. When completed I intend on it being a daily driver also used for towing. Pick up style bed.
All input is welcome.
Rob

[ghettoluxury]

Let me start off by saying that the 99 up trucks are getting cheaper every day. I gave $1,800 for my daily driver, a 2000 Z71. Also $1,100 for a 99 2wd extended cab that I picked up for the motor/tranny, to use in my 73 stepside. After parting out the extended cab I had $100 in a 5.3/4l60 with all the wiring and some extra parts i wanted to use. Had I kept the frame I would have had $200 wrapped up in it. The frames on the 99 up trucks are much wider than the AD or anything from the 70's/80's. This is something to think about but they still fit under the cabs.

Around here 80's style trucks are still running in the $800-$1500 range. Replacement parts are still relatively cheep, and can be picked up at any parts store same day. The fuel system is not hard to convert if you use the 87-91 blazer/suburban tank/sending unit in the rear with the fuel pump from a 96 pickup with a 5.7. The system does not need to be braided line and AN fittings. You can use steel tubing and short runs of rubber/nylon hose.

[hyatt]

find a bread truck chassis Straight frame and work great on coe cabs

[47 Fasttoys]

Thanks for the replies, Yes the bread truck idea has been considered and may be an option. I don't know if the track is the same as the 1/2 or 3/4 tons or not. I really don't want to go with a dually. For the wider frames on the late model, on a COE the body will be above the frame about 1 inch. The step back guards may need notching but that's an easy fix. For the 97 fuel pump, isn't the pressure to low for the LS system? My '46 runs a '96 TBI unit and I think my fuel pressure is only approximately 25 PSI if I remember right. The LS unit requires 58 PSI.
Rob

[Midgets50]

there is always the option of building your frame out of rec tube. dont remember the members name on here who did this. but in doing this you dont have to box your frame already done, the frame is straight to make cab mounting easier. then you can build it from the ground up choosing the desired axles and everything you would want. that being said this method will also require a decent amount of fabrication skills

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by 47 Fasttoys

For the 97 fuel pump, isn't the pressure to low for the LS system? My '46 runs a '96 TBI unit and I think my fuel pressure is only approximately 25 PSI if I remember right. The LS unit requires 58 PSI.
Rob

The TBI pumps are 25 psi, using the pump for a multi-port (vortec) injection engine is what is needed. It puts out 58 psi and is a direct replacement for the TBI fuel pump on the 87 sending unit.

I have attached a picture of a COE sitting on a late model chassis.

[47 Fasttoys]

Now thats the look I'm going for. Any more info on this build? Thanks you the Pick.
Rob

[ghettoluxury]

Sorry but I have nothing on the build. I was looking for the 22 inch GM transit wheels that are on it when I found the pic, so I saved it. I have been unable to find the website that the picture came from since.

[BlueJeep]

How about a 2000's 1/2 ton van as a donor? It would have the 5.3/4L60 and may have some better equipment to help you start your steering setup.

[47 Fasttoys]

Yes, the van does have a good steering set up going for it, but for some reason they widened the track by like 5" making it to wide without mods. They are also a bit pricey and the LS motor didn't start until 2003, now it does have a good boxed flat frame which be a plus.
Rob

[buggy5872]

What is your end goal? That would help us answer your question. The narrower donor frame you find the better off you will be. All big trucks have used a standard 34" frame width since tyhe 30's. Steering will be your biggest issue. Once you go with idependent front suspension the steering gets tricky to get set up correctly. Straight axles are easier to set up the steering.

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by buggy5872

What is your end goal? That would help us answer your question.

Originally Posted by 47 Fasttoys

When completed I intend on it being a daily driver also used for towing. Pick up style bed.
All input is welcome.
Rob

Also why the switch to the car style intake? Just for looks or are you afraid of clearance issues?

[48 GMC BURB]

I would look at a 3/4 or 1 ton AD frame 87 chevy susp will bolt up with 1/2 plate added to the frame ,box as needed .That gives you disc brakes & COTS parts. 90's LT1 700r4 very low profile motor, think corvette...good prices & $300 for a standalone harness....just a suggestion, that's what I am doing on a 48 Double duty Step-van for the wife .She wants it low so 2 in drop spindles , & bags all round !
Good luck Love those COE's

[47 Fasttoys]

The reason for the car style intake is for clearance, the plan is mid engine with the front of the engine under the rear of the cab. Using the F body pan and intake I gain around 6 inches of total engine height. The lower the engine height the more space I can gain above the engine the better (heat). It will be a pick-up style build and the reason for putting it under the cab is to keep the bed lenght within reason.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

For the frame, I have no frame at all at this point. The COE frame was different then the normal truck or larger truck due to the front suspension being almost under the cab. I do want IFS and all the modern stuff I can get on this thing as I will be driving it regular ( I've put over 120K on my "46 in the 11 years). Yes, the LT1 is a good motor and low profile but I gust gotta have the LS.
Rob

[ghettoluxury]

Ok if it was mine my first choice would be to find a complete 99 up truck/tahoe/suburban. I would use every bit if it possible including ABS and Body Control Module. So that i could take full advantage of things like DRL, auto headlights,and 4 wheel disc brakes just to name a few.

Second choice find a 73-87 on the cheep use the rolling chassis and swap in the LS with blazer fuel tank and steel hard lines all the way from front to rear. I have put 6 LS series engines in with both EFI and carb, the carb setup has always cost more in the end.

Remember parts cost more for the 99 up but the ride quality is so much better. This is the reason I went from my 73 as a DD to a 2000 Z71 as my DD.

[47 Fasttoys]

Getto, I think I may have done just that. I made a offer today on a 2003 Silverado 1500, 4.8l/4L60E, 2WD with 140K miles. I had my bro in law go check it out. The report is a solid truck badly advertised (found on E-bay). Should know later today.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

Well I now have a donor: 2003 1500 Silverado, 4.8/4L60E Extended cab short bed, 141K miles, 2WD. I does have the drive by wire which will work good for the mid engine. Now I need is to get back to the states so I can build this sucker.
Rob

[ghettoluxury]

You should be very happy with the choice. The 2wd trucks had rack and pinion steering. Since it is an extended cab it has a 2 piece drive shaft, so relocating the engine could be very easy with a driveshaft swap.

We need pics of the donor!

[47 Fasttoys]

Well, here it is in all it's boring glory. I'm looking through the RPO codes now to see what I got.

Rob

[ghettoluxury]

Looks like a good donor. You should be able to re-coop some cash for all the clean body parts.

[G&R's57GMC]

Some inspiration Pic's