power window kits & brakes

[bigblue 72]

Are the any true bolt in power window kits for all 4 windows?
Also considering upgrading to hydroboost brakes. What are the better donor parts or kits to go with?

[jorgensensc]

Not that I have found. I called one of the companies that others recommend that is a bit more expensive, and they don't have any for the rears. I offered them my suburban for R&D, but they didn't seem too interested. I may hit them up again. I remember it was going to be expensive, but supposedly they were one of the best out there.

[305a]

Years ago, before P/W kits were available I took to regulators, removed the cranks, built a bolt on motor bracket, added a GM power window motor and I had working P/W for my Chevy Truck. I plan to do mthe same for the rears on my Suburban. I plan on starting this fall. If anyone is interested I could do some type of write-up.
Mike

[rocknss]

I'm interested!

[53burb]

Interested!

[MSHax]

Don't think I've seen an all 4 window kit. I know Nu-relic sells the fronts, I'm sure they can do the backs as well. I have used them for a few projects, their instructions seem to be crap, but the products are great.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by bigblue 72

Are the any true bolt in power window kits for all 4 windows?
Also considering upgrading to hydroboost brakes. What are the better donor parts or kits to go with?

As far as the hydroboost you want to look for the booster from the 1-ton trucks as it is heavier duty than the one from the Astro vans. Many people who started with the Astro unit end up switching.

The hoses from a square body will fit and work well, are inexpensive & easy to find new. Just avoid the later model ones where they decided to run the hoses straight down into the gearbox instead of with a 90 degree bend like the older ones. They won't clear our inner fenders without cutting.

You can get the hoses from a flared fitting or O-ring fitting application to match your hydroboost donor. You will need the steering gearbox to match so you can avoid expensive custom pressure hoses to go from one to the other.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 305a

Years ago, before P/W kits were available I took to regulators, removed the cranks, built a bolt on motor bracket, added a GM power window motor and I had working P/W for my Chevy Truck. I plan to do mthe same for the rears on my Suburban. I plan on starting this fall. If anyone is interested I could do some type of write-up.
Mike

I would like to see a write up of what you did.

I have been wanting to build a kit from common square body parts for quite a while and have all the pieces needed plus a spare set of doors to play with. Just need the time to get to it. Being a machinist & welder / fabricator it shouldn't be too hard once I pull the door skins off the shells. Hopefully I can get to it this winter.

I want to figure out a way to get the square body power lock parts to work on our rigs too.

[jorgensensc]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

I would like to see a write up of what you did.

I have been wanting to build a kit from common square body parts for quite a while and have all the pieces needed plus a spare set of doors to play with. Just need the time to get to it. Being a machinist & welder / fabricator it shouldn't be too hard once I pull the door skins off the shells. Hopefully I can get to it this winter.

I want to figure out a way to get the square body power lock parts to work on our rigs too.

Specifically which 1 ton trucks work and mount like the astro van?
Since you have all the stuff, could you look and see if a set squarebody or '90s power window regulators could mount up inside our doors somehow?maybe using some spacers or something?

[john]

I wonder how hard it would be to adapt a-1 electric kits for the other windows. They look pretty simple.
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...ct_Code=GM49-K

[DWilbur]

Check out the build thread on making your own power windows from one of the members.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601167

[305a]

I am a collision repair teacher at a career center, and I have one of my students working on the rear power window problem. I spent a few minutes helping him on it today. I hope to have some information in the next few weeks. Mike

[71meangreenc10]

I called Nu-Relics a few years back and they said they would do the rear if I sent them my regulators. They quoted around $500 back then.

Smitty

[305a]

I had two of my students working on this most of the week. They were not able to fit the motor between the door shell and window. It looks like there is less room in the rear than the front doors. I will let you know if we find a way to fit the motor it the door.
Mike

[Bigdav160]

I might take this up this winter. I successfully made front power regulators from the post in the truck forum.

I keep my Suburban at work but plan to take it home in December

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 305a

I had two of my students working on this most of the week. They were not able to fit the motor between the door shell and window. It looks like there is less room in the rear than the front doors. I will let you know if we find a way to fit the motor it the door.
Mike

There are a few different motor shapes in some of cars I have come across that could work. The ones from an Astro van may be more compact than the square body versions or be a shape that can be made to work more easily. Pretty common donor too.

The 88-98 truck part may be more compact as well.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Specifically which 1 ton trucks work and mount like the astro van?

Square body 1-tons are the easiest to work with and many of the parts in the system will fit our trucks too.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Since you have all the stuff, could you look and see if a set squarebody or '90s power window regulators could mount up inside our doors somehow?maybe using some spacers or something?

That was my plan for this winter if I can get to it around the higher priority projects that must get done.

I doubt it will be that easy though or somebody else would have done it already. I figured it would take cutting apart both sets of regulators and making a hybrid part with the right configuration to fit inside the door of our trucks. We will see.

[ERASER5]

I guess locking the crank stub into the chuck of my DeWalt cordless drill is not considered "high tech." Duck tape helps thing stay in place.

[boostat4500]

I have Electric-life window regulators in the front and rear of my burb'. They bolt right in to the rear door but you have to shorten the arms a little for the window. Works great but the windows only go down about 4" shy of fully open. Not that big of a deal in my opinion.

I also run a hydroboost out of an 02' 3/4' ton chevy. I made my own lines to the pump and steering box, but its pretty easy and works great.

[Bigdav160]

I'm here to inform y'all that bonnieclyde100's design, from the link above, works fine for the rear windows. Other than having shorter arms, the difference from the front regulator to the rear regulator is the gear is not centered to the arm. (15 teeth to one side and 20 to the other).

No matter as I made adjustments to the design. When repositioning the gear 90º I used the rivet holes as the reference. I also used a plasma cutter to make a tighter, nicer looking motor bracket. It made the whole thing go into the door easier as there isn't much room to get past the lower window stop. I also nicely cut out, reattached and reused the crank pilot/guide to the new motor bracket. I have full window travel.

I installed the regulators today and they work slick. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures. I thought I took a couple pics after I painted the regulators but apparently not

When I go back to the shop I'll bring the camera so y'all can see how nicely the motorized regulators fit.

[jorgensensc]

Thank you for the update!! Any Pics would be great!!! Thank you again!
Shawn