Refresh my memory. Valves adjust.

[Ron]

I need to adjust the valves on my 350 tonight. I'm doing it the "engine running method". After you back off on the rocker nut and get chatter, you then tighten it until it'd quite than turn in another 3/4 of a turn, right? Or is it 1 full turn? Thanks, this will save me some time.

[lukecp]

Some people say 1/4 turn, others say 3/4 turn with the engine running. Most people i know set them at 1/4. Mine are set at 3/8's of a tun after they get quiet, i split the difference. I haven't had any problems yet, and i even accidetly rapped my motor to a little over 6,000 rpms not to long ago (i was manualy shifting and went from 2nd to N :S).

[killerbee]

if you go 3/4 turn, Im afraid you will burn a valve with that, I think the rule of thumb is 1/4 to 1/2 , --------- killerbee!!

[cableguy0]

do not go any more than a half turn i usually go between a 1/4 and 3/8 of a turn 1 full turn will wipe a cam in a hurry

[kaycee]

I went to a 1/2 turn on mine and no problems.I went the 3/4 route and they were to tight .

[dion]

1/4 to 1/2 turn is the most you should need.

[Ron]

I went 1/4 turn. Worked great. Thanks men, I knew I could count on you. Now I just need to spend a few hours cleaning up my engine bay.

[71GMC_3/4T]

I assume this all applies to BBC as well? I read in my rebuild manual that you should go 1 full turn. I went 3/4 and it still doesn't seem right. I also tried the w/o engine running method and it didn't work for crap. I think I'll go and try 3/8 turn and see how that works. Thanks!

BTW, for cleaning the engine compartment, I'd suggest trying some of the new Purple cleaner. I read somewhere (Home Shop Machinist, maybe?) that that stuff works great! Maybe your local auto parts store has some?

[rcorkren]

I have done the valve adjustment while the engine is running and it is too messy, hot and a pain in the a$$.

I have a better way... A buddy told me about this, and I tried it on my new motor about 2 weeks ago.

*** This easier done with the tool that hooks up to your starter for bumping the motor over ****

Just like always, make sure the #1 cyc. is on compression stroke and at TDC.

(This is easier if you have a harmonic balancer that has a degree tape already on it)

Divide the harmonic balancer into quarters... what I did was get a fabric tape measure and measured the circumference of the balancer. Then you divide that number by 4. This will tell you how big your quads are going to be - I believe my were 4" or 5" each quad.

Now that you have this number... measure from TDC counterclockwise the distance you found above and make a mark on the balancer - this should be 90 degrees from the TDC mark on your harmonic balancer. Then measure from that mark using the number you found above and make another mark - this should be 180 degrees from the TDC mark on your harmonic balancer. Then measure from this mark the same distance as before and make another mark. This should put you at 270 degrees from the TDC mark going in a counterclockwise direction.

Now that you have you harmonic balancer marked, and assuming you have your valve covers off. Adjust the #1 cyc valves.

Loosen or tighten the rocker nut so that there is just a slight up and down play in the push rod - I kept having to wipe the push rods and my fingers off in order to ensure my fingers wouldn't slip.

Once you have got just a slight up and down play in your push rod tighten the nut 1/2 turn. Anymore than that will result in the lashing being too tight. Adjust both valves on the #1 cyc. this way. When you are done with #1, bump the motor over so that the next mark on your haramonic balancer lines up with the TDC mark on your timing can cover.

You can get away with being 4 - 6 degree advance or retard with regards to your balancer mark and TDC.

Now that you have bumped your motor over and the mark is all lined up adjust the #8 cyc. in the same manner as #1.

After each cyc. adjustment, you should line up the next mark with the TDC mark on your timing cam cover and adjust the cyc. according to the firing order - SBC 18436572.

If you go over the mark more than 4 - 6 degrees then try rotating the motor back - this should be really easy if the spark plugs are out of the heads by turning the converter or flexplate.

After you are all done you should have completed 2 complete rotations of the balancer to get all cyc. adjusted and back to TDC.

Rob

[racedvl]

Not so messy if you have the right "tools".

[lukecp]

I use Racedvl's method with the sliced valvecovers...and it works great. Keeps almost 100% of the oil off the engine bay, assuming you have good gaskets on them, lol.

[Hotrod70C10]

That is a great idea! I've got an old junk set of covers in my garage. I guess i'll get the cut off wheel out on them soon!

[racedvl]

I found that this is the only thing that chrome valve covers are good for.

[Gordo]

I've done the 1 turn in, from 0 lash, running hot, a 1/4 at a time methed for 30+ years. It works for me and the adjustment holds for 100K, give or take. This is works for your daily driver unless you want to readjust more often, and the open valve covers are great!

[bigjimzlll]

Originally posted by rcorkren
I have done the valve adjustment while the engine is running and it is too messy, hot and a pain in the a$$.

I have a better way... A buddy told me about this, and I tried it on my new motor about 2 weeks ago.

*** This easier done with the tool that hooks up to your starter for bumping the motor over ****

Just like always, make sure the #1 cyc. is on compression stroke and at TDC.

(This is easier if you have a harmonic balancer that has a degree tape already on it)

Divide the harmonic balancer into quarters... what I did was get a fabric tape measure and measured the circumference of the balancer. Then you divide that number by 4. This will tell you how big your quads are going to be - I believe my were 4" or 5" each quad.

Now that you have this number... measure from TDC counterclockwise the distance you found above and make a mark on the balancer - this should be 90 degrees from the TDC mark on your harmonic balancer. Then measure from that mark using the number you found above and make another mark - this should be 180 degrees from the TDC mark on your harmonic balancer. Then measure from this mark the same distance as before and make another mark. This should put you at 270 degrees from the TDC mark going in a counterclockwise direction.

Now that you have you harmonic balancer marked, and assuming you have your valve covers off. Adjust the #1 cyc valves.

Loosen or tighten the rocker nut so that there is just a slight up and down play in the push rod - I kept having to wipe the push rods and my fingers off in order to ensure my fingers wouldn't slip.

Once you have got just a slight up and down play in your push rod tighten the nut 1/2 turn. Anymore than that will result in the lashing being too tight. Adjust both valves on the #1 cyc. this way. When you are done with #1, bump the motor over so that the next mark on your haramonic balancer lines up with the TDC mark on your timing can cover.

You can get away with being 4 - 6 degree advance or retard with regards to your balancer mark and TDC.

Now that you have bumped your motor over and the mark is all lined up adjust the #8 cyc. in the same manner as #1.

After each cyc. adjustment, you should line up the next mark with the TDC mark on your timing cam cover and adjust the cyc. according to the firing order - SBC 18436572.

If you go over the mark more than 4 - 6 degrees then try rotating the motor back - this should be really easy if the spark plugs are out of the heads by turning the converter or flexplate.

After you are all done you should have completed 2 complete rotations of the balancer to get all cyc. adjusted and back to TDC.

Rob

This will work great for stock or real mild cams...but will not work for performance cams..the overlap and steeper ramps of a performance cam need to be adjusted on the heel of the cam..the only way is E/C-I/O method http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm