1968 C10 build I-6 4spd

[sambudo]

Well I picked this 1968 C10 up on 10.13.13. I really liked it, as it seemed all original except the rear bumper. I feel I p/u for a decent price. My intensions at first was use it occasionally to haul yard debris to the dump. But now, I'd like it to look good and run and drive well w/o dropping in loads of cash.

So far I have changed all the bulbs and got all the lights functioning correctly. Replaced starter.

After cleaning the engine of oil and grime, changing the oil/filter. I notice it has a nice oil drip. Looks like it might need valve gasket, oil pan and looking at it closer main seal. So now the question is do i pull the engine and when it's out do i rebuild it, or just replace the seals and put it back in.

I plan on dong the wheel bearings in the front, checking out the brakes etc..

I'd like to clean up then drain and replace transmission fluid, Plus the same for the front and rear diffs clean up, inspect, replace gaskets and fluid.

Really not sure were to begin?? any comments??

more pictures later.

[slomotion]

I think I'd take a compression test first, then hook up a vacuum gauge and see what your idle vacuum readings are.
If those two parameters are good I would just change out the old gaskets and run it. If it "goes south" after that all you've bought is a gasket set.
If you're serious about cleaning and painting, lifting the engine out is the best way to go. It's a nuisance perhaps, but makes things so much easier to access. Makes it a lot easier to change the gaskets too.

We're looking forward to the photo's!

[hugger6933]

Compression test most def most likely you need a tune up and some fresh seals. If your wanting to detail the engine compartment then pulling the engine is the only way to do it properly. If indeed the truck is running good why rebuild it? When all you really need to do is keep the oil inside the motor. Jim

[sambudo]

Thanks for the info, this makes since what should the compression and vacuum readings be?

[slomotion]

Nice old truck!
Your vacuum should be around 16"Hg, but don't be discouraged if it's a little lower. Depending on the miles on the engine, it could be lower and still run fine. The main thing is that the reading is steady.
Your compression in a brand new engine would be 130 psi. on a stock engine "at cranking speed, throttle wide open - maximum variation 20 lbs. between cylinders." Again, that's on a new engine. If the numbers are a little lower I wouldn't be too concerned.
These old 6's are tough, and if everything is relatively even across all of the cylinders (vacuum and compression) I'd just run it.

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Nice old truck!
Your vacuum should be around 16"Hg, but don't be discouraged if it's a little lower. Depending on the miles on the engine, it could be lower and still run fine. The main thing is that the reading is steady.
Your compression in a brand new engine would be 130 psi. on a stock engine "at cranking speed, throttle wide open - maximum variation 20 lbs. between cylinders." Again, that's on a new engine. If the numbers are a little lower I wouldn't be too concerned.
These old 6's are tough, and if everything is relatively even across all of the cylinders (vacuum and compression) I'd just run it.

Thanks slomotion I look forward to taking these readings. Stay tuned.

[sambudo]

I had the opportunity to sand blast my bed this past weekend! It was not a high priority but I took it. Now the decision to paint it, the original color, or different color. Attachment 1168608 Before, sand blasted and epoxy primed. The wife wants me to paint it gray, I want to keep it original light yellow. What do you all think? same or different! I decided not to go the bed liner route.

[sambudo]

before pic

[Cordless57]

Yellow. Definitely. Keep that lovely old girl stock.

[slomotion]

With it coming out that good, and being that pristine, I'd leave it stock too. I'd also have a mat, or piece of plywood with carpet strips on the back to protect it when hauling stuff.

[Avitech]

Nice ride! Keep it original looking since it still looks so nice.

[sambudo]

thank you all I've decided to keep it the same color.

[sambudo]

Can any one tell me what these are? Are they after market used for hauling ? Im curious how the work and if i keep them or get rid of them.

[sambudo]

I finished painting the inside of the bed. Not 100% sold on the finished product. I guess time will tell.

[slomotion]

Originally Posted by sambudo

Can any one tell me what these are? Are they after market used for hauling ? Im curious how the work and if i Attachment 1170685 keep them or get rid of them.

Can you take another photo from a little farther away? May be able to figure it out, but don't have any idea at the moment.

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Can you take another photo from a little farther away? May be able to figure it out, but don't have any idea at the moment.

This is a little better picture.

[sambudo]

shot from the bottom.

[sambudo]

shows the leaf spring going into the box. I think this is a type of after market load damper???? What do you think it is. And does any body know how it works?

[slomotion]

I wasn't able to find anything specific on that, but here's my guess: With the bed of your truck not being beat up and dented, I suspect someone used the truck for a slide-in camper rather than misc. loads. I'm thinking if you pulled that clevis pin, pulled the lever out and turned it one revolution, re-engaged the pin, then put the clevis back you will have raised, or at least increased the capacity of the overload springs. I noticed there's one on each side.
You would raise the body to accommodate the camper shell, then when the camper was out of the box you could lower the truck back to a reasonable level.
Like I said, just a "swag", but before I took them off, I'd be tempted to load them up with WD40, Blaster, or whatever you like and see if you could get them working again. That's a pretty novel thing to have on a truck. If nothing else, they won't hurt anything just riding along....

[alsriv2]

Very nice truck. I really like the unusual yellow color and the fact it is a '68.

Good job on the color selection for the bed. Maybe you could look up the spray in Rino liner type bedliner in the original color to enhance its look. (Just a thought).

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Nice old truck!
Your vacuum should be around 16"Hg, but don't be discouraged if it's a little lower. Depending on the miles on the engine, it could be lower and still run fine. The main thing is that the reading is steady.
Your compression in a brand new engine would be 130 psi. on a stock engine "at cranking speed, throttle wide open - maximum variation 20 lbs. between cylinders." Again, that's on a new engine. If the numbers are a little lower I wouldn't be too concerned.
These old 6's are tough, and if everything is relatively even across all of the cylinders (vacuum and compression) I'd just run it.

I still have not compression tested my engine, can you tell me what is the best way to go about doing this? I have never done either. I do have an idea how to do it. But not 100% positive. I know I need to take out all plug wires and label them, remove coil wire also and plugs?

can I test by myself, or do I need some one to crank the engine? How long do I crank it for before I can take the reading.

I will try to do it tomorrow night. I always seem too tired to do anything when I get home from work. I really need to change my routine. Thanks slomotion

[slomotion]

I will describe it in words, but seeing it might mean more to you, go on to YouTube, and in the search box type in "How to do a compression test on an engine". There will be pages of tests show up, just scroll down and watch three or four that are done on older engines. What you'll see is;
In a nut shell, warm your engine up, this isn't absolutely necessary, but will give you a more accurate reading. Mark your spark plug wires at both ends - distributor and plug. Pull all of your plugs out and look carefully at the ends. Keep them in order on the bench, or holes in an old box. Don't clean them yet. Pull the coil wire out of the dist. and ground the wire to the engine. (I've used a clothes pin to the coil bracket.) I like to use a compression tester that threads into the spark plug hole. Seat it lightly but snug, and roll the engine over by the key switch if you don't have a remote starter handy. You'll hear the engine come up on compression. I usually count five compression strokes then stop. (The number isn't critical so long as they are all the same.) Any less than three you won't get a good reading, any more than five or six won't bring the compression any higher. As soon as you get the fifth "bump" stop cranking and check your gauge. Write that number down by the spark plug that came out of that cylinder. Release the pressure from the gauge by the button on the side, and move on to # 2 cylinder. Continue on with the same procedure for all six cylinders being careful to get the same compression "bumps" from each cylinder. Once you have the numbers, and the plugs that correspond to the numbers, you have a real good indication of what's going on inside the cylinder. If you can, when you get done with the test post up a photo of the plugs and compression numbers, and we'll go from there.

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by slomotion

I will describe it in words, but seeing it might mean more to you, go on to YouTube, and in the search box type in "How to do a compression test on an engine". There will be pages of tests show up, just scroll down and watch three or four that are done on older engines. What you'll see is;
In a nut shell, warm your engine up, this isn't absolutely necessary, but will give you a more accurate reading. Mark your spark plug wires at both ends - distributor and plug. Pull all of your plugs out and look carefully at the ends. Keep them in order on the bench, or holes in an old box. Don't clean them yet. Pull the coil wire out of the dist. and ground the wire to the engine. (I've used a clothes pin to the coil bracket.) I like to use a compression tester that threads into the spark plug hole. Seat it lightly but snug, and roll the engine over by the key switch if you don't have a remote starter handy. You'll hear the engine come up on compression. I usually count five compression strokes then stop. (The number isn't critical so long as they are all the same.) Any less than three you won't get a good reading, any more than five or six won't bring the compression any higher. As soon as you get the fifth "bump" stop cranking and check your gauge. Write that number down by the spark plug that came out of that cylinder. Release the pressure from the gauge by the button on the side, and move on to # 2 cylinder. Continue on with the same procedure for all six cylinders being careful to get the same compression "bumps" from each cylinder. Once you have the numbers, and the plugs that correspond to the numbers, you have a real good indication of what's going on inside the cylinder. If you can, when you get done with the test post up a photo of the plugs and compression numbers, and we'll go from there.

Looks like I might have trouble, I will check again asap. I failed to warm up the engine first. 4 cylinders had 150, and 2 had 105. I want to double check again at a later date, not sure i got accurate readings or not[ATTACH]1208140[ATTACH] this shows all plugsAttachment 1208141 1-3[/ATTACH]4-6. I'm really not sure if i did the test accurately.

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by sambudo

looks like i might have trouble, i will check again asap. I failed to warm up the engine first. 4 cylinders had 150, and 2 had 105. I want to double check again at a later date, not sure i got accurate readings or not[attach]1208140[attach] this shows all plugsAttachment 1208141 1-3[/attach]Attachment 12081424-6. I'm really not sure if i did the test accurately.

[sambudo]