CPP Power Steering Adapter Kit for '64

[Leverhead]

Hello. Just finished installing the CPP adapter kit and everything went reasonably well until it was time for the pitman to centerlink connection...wont line up.... the angle is off. Only thing I can think of so far is if the front steering linkage parts were all worn to the point of misaligment of the entire system...but I dont think so. I've came across other threads where the same pbm was encountered...but no solution. Hoping there are others who have done the same with success and might have some words of wisdom. Going to have another crack at it in the morning. Pics attached...(4th pic is from an article in Classic Trucks mag and it looks like the same angle..and not all the way in...so I'm wondering how it was resolved.)

Also noticed that the new pitman arm from the kit may or may not send the center link into the crossmember...????

Thanks.

[LostMy65]

Looking at your pics, the gear box appears to be tilted up too much.
See how your ragjoint meets the shaft? The angle looks off by about an inch.
Did they provide you with a template to ensure proper alignment?
Captainfab sells a kit that has a template to get it mounted correctly.

.
It looks like if you tilt the gearbox rag joint down about 1 inch things will line up.

[argonaut]

The cpp kit does not align the axis of the gearbox with the axis of the column... However its nothing that can't be taken up by the rag joint. The centerlink is attached to all other links by ball joints so you should be able to simply rotate the centerlink about its long axis to fit the pitman arm. I installed the same kit and had no problems. Worn joints could cause it to resist rotation. You also may have the inner tie rod ends cranked over too far so that they won't allow the center link to pivot properly.
Hope that makes sense and helps.

[Leverhead]

I noticed the angle of the box...I thought the same thing....hoping the rag would take up the difference. The CPP kit doesnt come with a template per say...the plate IS the template...uses 2 factory holes..and provides the guide for the remaining 2 holes...so it is installed as instructed...but like what argonaut said...it doesnt line up exactly. I'm using the stock column and shaft and they are in the truck high and tight. I would have to elongate the holes in the frame to tilt the box somehow.

I tried to rotate the centerlink to no avail. I'll check the rest of the linkages. Note to argonaut: Did you have the same issues with the box to shaft alignment?....or the pitman to centerlink? Also, not sure what you mean when you say the inners are cranked over to far? Thanks. Steve.

[Captainfab]

You might try loosening the idler arm and see if that helps. If your idler arm is not worn out, the draglink will not rotate.

This is one reason why my steering box adapter plate is positioned as it is.

[Leverhead]

Hi Capt. I guess too late now...wish I would have known beforehand. Can I use your plate with my existing parts (CPP pitman, intermediate shaft, etc?) I'll check the idler arm.

[LostMy65]

You're so close to having it.
I would just take out three bolts closest to the rag joint, rotate the box and adapter plate down until you can attach the draglink.
Then use a yardstick to line your box up straight with the steering shaft. Then take a center punch and mark where the new holes need to be.

[chevy_mike]

Here's a pic of the CaptainFab kit used





Definitely at a lower angle then the CPP mount. You should be able to use all your other parts with the CaptainFab mount.

[Leverhead]

I think I will do like '65 suggested and try to drop the box and see where I'm at. Thanks Mike for sharing those pics...I'll see if I can duplicate that angle..interesting how the bottom forward hole is over the frame rail where the bracket from the CPP kit puts that same hole slightly below the frame rail.

I just found this thread and looks like the angle of the box is the same as mine right now:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=374519

[LostMy65]

Yep, comparing yours with chevy_mike's pic, you need to rotate it down about an inch.

[LostMy65]

Take a look at this thread about the geometry of everything lining up.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=438509

[Leverhead]

Well I think we've got it now. I kept the lower rear bolt and removed the rest then rotated the front up...bringing the rag down. This put everything where it needed to be. Doing this eliminated the possibilty of using the top front 1/2'' bolt, so I spot welded the bracket and backing plate to the frame then re-drilled 2 holes. In the first pic you can see thru the bracket holes into the frame to see the amount of misalignment....didnt take much. The box seems to follow the rake of the frame now. Thanks all for contributing. Hopefully I can return the favor eventually. Steve.

[LostMy65]

That looks perfectly aligned.
Shaft is straight on with box.
Great job!

[Leverhead]

Thanks again. Steve.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Leverhead

...clip...

I just found this thread and looks like the angle of the box is the same as mine right now:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=374519

Their kit is off. It doesn't align the shaft straight with the box.
TR65's box doesn't look straight with the steering shaft - the same as yours was.

[LostMy65]

Also,
If someone chooses to bolt their shaft to the sleeve like in the above pic rather than welding, I recommend a bolt rated for shear.
Some will say to use 5 instead of 8.
But here's an interesting read:
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Bolt%20Grades.pdf

[awbrown]

I need to reposition my steering wheel ,I think when I do it again I will use a collapsible steering shaft ,I think we have seen a few trucks that the steering wheel tends to extend into the drivers compartment in a collision , anyone else ever used a collapsible steering shaft?? ????

[Leverhead]

Thanks 65. I gave CPP a call and relayed the info to them. Every pic I've seen of their kit shows the same angle on the box. Oh and BTW..something else I noticed when using the stock shaft/column...spacing the box away from the frame with the bracket moves the steering shaft outward the same amount..so there is some angle horizontally that makes the shaft a little tight on the rag joint...

To button it up, I'll probably use a grade 5 1/4" bolt. Welding the top edge of the intermediate shaft to the stock shaft is also an option for added security ...although the plan is to eventually go to an IDIDIT w column shift and universals..... I double D'ed the stock shaft to mate with the intermediate and the fit is tight so welding may be overkill and a PITA to undo if I want to use the intermediate shaft with the IDIDIT.

Note to awbrown...here is a pic of a Borgeson/IDIDIT setup with slip shaft and vibration joint in my chevelle..

[argonaut]

I was going to say just reposition it and weld it. But it looks like you've already done so. Looks good.

[LostMy65]

I'm doing this upgrade on my 65 which sits on a 62 frame.
I wanted to use Captainfab's plate, but his isn't really setup yet for the 60-62 frames.
There's a member here that got some additional pieces from Captainfab and adapted Captain's plate to work with the 60-62 frames. I would recommend that route over the CPP kit.
Why? Well I wanted to put my questions regarding the 60-62 CPP kit to rest.
Every thread I've read on doing this conversion using the CPP kit causes a horrible tilt/misalignment of the power steering box to the steering shaft.
Whether you're using the CPP kit for the 63-66, or their 60-62 kit, it's going to tilt the power steering gear box out of whack.
I'll be starting a thread to resolve this issue, and why the CPP kit aligns things incorrectly.
But I just wanted to bump this thread to confirm the 60-62 kit will also tilt the box giving the same alignment issue as member Leverhead had.

[Leverhead]

Seems like every time I find a 'kit' to convert something old to something new on these old vehicles there is some engineering involved...never just a bolt on and go solution. Every vehicle is a little different also so add that into the equation. All in all for the $$$ the CPP kit worked fine (saved me the time of engineering and fabbing things from scratch)...it wasn't that difficult to correct...just be prepared and mock up first. Since this thread I've converted to an IDIDIT column shift column (again- more mods involved for correct fitment) with a modified Gen2 C10 wheel and modded caprice wagon bench seat and with all the suspension mods/rebuild it rides and handles like a totally different truck.

As an added note I contacted CPP when this was all done to give them the info....I don't know if they have corrected the plate angle since then. Somehow I doubt they have.

[LostMy65]

I don't suspect they will change it.
From the bolt and go point of view, they set the kit up to use two of the existing bolt holes for alignment - which makes it simpler for the average Joe.
And it's close enough for the rag joint to take up.

[OldChevy61]

Could someone post a pic of the backside of a power steering gearbox. I just can't picture why the adapter is needed.

[LostMy65]

You don't really need an "Adapter Plate" you just need to space the newer power steering gear box away from the frame.

[OldChevy61]

Thank you. Now I see.