New Member from Utah

[sublime1996525]

Hey guys. Been hanging out on this site for a few weeks. Have been toying with the idea of purchasing a 71-72 SWB Chevy or GMC truck for a while and have recently decided to get more serious about it.

I'm used to newer cars so I don't know too much about these but I'm learning a lot from this site. I was thinking of going with a 70's muscle car as a project but I need a truck and have loved these since I was 16.

I'm looking at a 72 SWB C10 this weekend. It's a C10 with a Cheyenne cab put on because it had AC. Mechanically it seems solid but needs some body work. I'm hoping this could be the one. Going to post in the WIW thread for some input.

What are some tips on things to look at? I've been drooling over all the sweet trucks on this site for weeks and hopefully can contribute something of my own soon.

Sorry for the long thread.

[sublime1996525]

So I lied. I can't post in the WIW section so I'll post some pictures here. Let me know what you guys think. He's asking $6500. Definitely seems high.

Here's the for sale ad:
Up for sale is a very cool 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super! This is the highly desirable short/wide bed model. The truck has many of the hard to find options: Factory A/C cab, tilt steering column, 402cid big block w/700R Overdrive transmission. I also have the extremely rare factory bucket seats assembly for it. The truck runs very well, it has new coil springs all the way around along with new shocks.

[jocko]

Welcome to the forum. If it is an original swb 402 Super, you should pass on it, and pm me the seller's phone number.

But seriously, check it over closely if it's being advertised as an original swb 402 Super:
- SPID for a CCE142.... VIN
- Matching VIN on the SPID, door, VIN plate on door jamb, and frame rail
- Check for uncut frame rail, especially with the mismatch bed.
- Check for YE9 RPO on the SPID.

Then decide. Even if it isn't all original, or an original swb etc, it is a pretty good deal and the basis for a sweet hot rod truck even at the asking price. But still look it over, there are always hidden warts. If it has decent extra buckets, those are worth at least $1k alone.

[mmiddle]

First of all Welcome from Texas.

I don't know the market in Utah so it might be well worth 6500. look closely for normal rust areas and repair quality if repaired. Also check out the SPID closely. I doubt that fat block is factory, but it might be. Beyond that... it looks complete and correct.

[sublime1996525]

Originally Posted by jocko

Welcome to the forum. If it is an original swb 402 Super, you should pass on it, and pm me the seller's phone number.

Hahaha pass on the 402, got it. I don't think it's the original engine. It would be sweet if it was though. I don't know what the market is in Utah for these trucks either because there aren't enough of them for sale and all the ones that are for sale are in better shape so the price is higher.

[sublime1996525]

Here is a pic of the buckets. They are just hanging out in the bed. Thanks for the welcomes and the tips guys. Definitely appreciate it.

[Mister-B]

I'm in Utah, and that price seems high. The bed doesn't match, and for all we know the frame was cut down from a long bed. Besides, what's a "short and wide" bed model? Does he just mean short bed fleetside?

Where the bed doesn't match, you'd be forced to paint it. It is missing a ton of moulding, especially on the sides and back, which can be very expensive.

Don't get me wrong. It's a cool truck. I just don't think it's $6,500 cool...Especially where it would take another 10k to showcase that it's as neat as the seller claims

[sublime1996525]

Originally Posted by Mister-B

I'm in Utah, and that price seems high. The bed doesn't match, and for all we know the frame was cut down from a long bed. Besides, what's a "short and wide" bed model? Does he just mean short bed fleetside?

Where the bed doesn't match, you'd be forced to paint it. It is missing a ton of moulding, especially on the sides and back, which can be very expensive.

Don't get me wrong. It's a cool truck. I just don't think it's $6,500 cool...Especially where it would take another 10k to showcase that it's as neat as the seller claims

From what the guy told me it's the cab that's not original. That he changed it from a Cheyenne Super so I'm guessing the bed is the original part which should mean the frame wasn't cut. I'm definitely going to look that. I agree the $6500 is high, especially if it needs $10k to get looking decent. Do you have any suggestions on what would be a good price for something like that?

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by sublime1996525

From what the guy told me it's the cab that's not original. That he changed it from a Cheyenne Super so I'm guessing the bed is the original part which should mean the frame wasn't cut. I'm definitely going to look that. I agree the $6500 is high, especially if it needs $10k to get looking decent. Do you have any suggestions on what would be a good price for something like that?

I don't trust this guy (the seller). Something smells bad.

So, it's a C10 short bed, with a Cheyenne Super cab? How do you even register something like that here? Was the Cheyenne Super originally a short bed fleet? Wonder if it was a long bed, so he put the cab on a C10 frame and kept the bed from the C10? I suppose in the end it might not matter, as long as you know what you're getting in to, and what it'll take to get you where you want to go.

I'm not sure what to suggest for a price until we get an idea of those answers. Until then, there is uncertainty and from what it looks like, a lot of paint, bodywork, and moulding to get it to not look like a frankentruck, which is very pricey

[Codez67Chevy]

Hello fellow Utahn! and Welcome! Good to see you have an interest that becomes an obsession. Anyways as Mister-B posted, good find but I would look a little harder. I know I can't say much for my self but I got my truck for free so I have a lot of work ahead of me. You should be able to find one in way better shape for that price. A little more money for a better truck means less work.

[mmiddle]

Mister-B brings up a good point. Look closely are the frame just behind the cab for signs that it has been shortened. Take a picture of the SPID and post it.

[sublime1996525]

Thanks guys. A frankentruck would probably be a nightmare. I'm a little skeptical about the seller too. Either he doesn't know much about the truck or he got way more into a project than he wanted and just wants to unload it. I'll take a picture of the SPID when I look at it Saturday. What I'm worried about though is if the entire cab is not original the SPID won't help much I don't think?

[Tinkermc]

Well welcome to the Forum, I think I would pass on that truck.

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by mmiddle

Mister-B brings up a good point. Look closely are the frame just behind the cab for signs that it has been shortened. Take a picture of the SPID and post it.

But what I'm saying in my follow up post, is that the cab for the Cheyenne may have been a long bed originally, and was placed on a C10 short bed frame, and then kept the bed and tailgate from the C10. So, there may be no cuts in the frame, but the cab might not belong to that frame. Again, not a big deal if he knows that upfront, and pays the correct price accordingly

[TxTan]

I would pass on it too!

[sublime1996525]

Good point on the cab possibly being for a long bed. Hopefully if it is a decent truck the guy will also understand it's a mutt and be willing to work on the price. If not no big deal and I'll keep looking. This will just be my first truck to look at so I want to make it a learning experience.

[Syndrome]

Keep an eye on KSL classifieds and craigslist. I've seen some pretty straight bodied running trucks for 1500 down here in St. George. And they were rust free too. They weren't show trucks by any means but very good starting points.

This one is in Vegas for $2,700.

Or this in Washinton for $1,000.

[Hawghauler]

I'd definitely pass on that truck for that price. When I was looking for mine, I saw lots of beauties in the EWa/Idaho areas that had very little rust and killer prices. I would look north a little, and take a drive to get a better deal.

Mostly I'd say take your time (if you have it,) and look for the special stuff:
1. Low Rust factor
2. Those buddy buckets.(If they appeal to you)
3. Tilt column
4. Tach or speed alarm gauge cluster.
5. Upgrades like overdrive trans that will save you money later.
(Lots of people spend time and money on their rigs and can't get it back. Don't feel bad if you happen to be the guy that won't be giving it back to them.)
6.Body and paint work you won't have to do later.
7.A/c
Etc...

If you're just looking for a project to keep you entertained and you want to build it all yourself then buy one that has low rust so you can enjoy the build without all the dirtiest work.
Just remember you won't get it back when/if you sell it.

[Jdubs71]

Welcome from CA. Not to beat this thread to death, but there are some major red flags and the price seems high to me as well. Seems like a lot of work just to have an AC cab. Im a little Leary when it comes to cab swaps. People in CA do it for a couple of reasons 1) the truck was stolen so they change the cab or maybe just vin plates 2) smog reasons, but that usually doesn't matter for 67-72 since pre 75 is smog exempt here. 3) rust issues, but again its not usually that bad here. I would keep looking and don't get too excited to where you are blind to major flaws or issues.

[sublime1996525]

Thanks guys. I'm probably going to keep looking unless this guy gives me a killer deal but I'm not thinking he will. Syndrome that step side long bed looks pretty cool.

[dan42]

Just remember, a straight rust free body is worth everything! Good luck in your search, and always feel free to bounce your potential purchases off of us.

[sublime1996525]

Originally Posted by dan42

Just remember, a straight rust free body is worth everything! Good luck in your search, and always feel free to bounce your potential purchases off of us.

Definitely! Thank you.

[RenoKeene]

Sooooooo, is the title for the cab or the original truck?

[Ol Blue K20]

One other point, the bucket seats are 67-68 buddy buckets. It's no big deal just thought you should know.

[sublime1996525]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

One other point, the bucket seats are 67-68 buddy buckets. It's no big deal just thought you should know.

I am going to ask about the title situation when I look at the truck because I've been wondering the same thing. And thanks for the heads up on the buckets. I didn't think they were for the correct year.