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76bonanza · 07-12-2003, 09:40 AM

Found the ticking in my front end but now need help.

It is the brake pad moving around in caliper up and down.

How can I stop this? I tried to bend the hangers but no luck an other ideas?

I was thinking as a last resort a plastic wire tie on the end no over pad of course but over the two ends???

Desprate for help.

boataddict26 · 07-12-2003, 10:24 AM

The wire tie wont work. The brakes get WAY to hot and will melt the plastic. If your brake pads have movment you are either missing a keeper or you have the wrong pads.

76bonanza · 07-12-2003, 10:38 AM

Do you think the ends of the pads get that hot? It is the only thing I can think of?

76bonanza · 07-12-2003, 10:39 AM

Its not even on the pad it self it is on the metal ears.

76bonanza · 07-12-2003, 11:47 AM

Ok here is the scoop I think I will leave the plastic ties on and see what happens if they melt off, no harm no foul.

Checked the other side, it is the same way just makes no noise because the rotor is not as warped.

Should I just get new pads and rotors and get it over with? If so what rotor and pad combo works best?

4x4 daily driver light off road?

Thanks

76bonanza · 07-12-2003, 07:54 PM

ttt

AirMale · 07-13-2003, 07:25 AM

Try some blue silicone gasket maker. Put it on the ears and where the piston contacts the pad. This will keep it from moving and no problems with heat.

**old Rusty C10** · 07-13-2003, 09:23 AM

they sell stuff called brake noise stop basically its high heat silicone an you smear it all over the back of the pad and it more or less glues itself to the brake caliper piston and will hold it from moving around. In addition there is suppoused to be a little cllip that attaches to the back of the brake pad and that rides in the recessed round part of the caliper and keeps the pad from moving.If that is missing "Help" pr Motormite" may sell replacements at your local auto parts store.. these clips should also come with a new set of pads if youre low on brake anyway

SCOTI · 07-13-2003, 05:01 PM

76 Bonanza, just keep bending those tabs down until it's difficult to slide the pad into place then slightly open it up enough to install. I just had to do this last night.

On my 68, when I had this problem, I was able to bend the tabs enough w/everything mounted in place. When doing this to my 74 last night, there was no way I could get them to bend enough to prevent movement so I had to pull the caliper loose & take the pads completely out to bend the tabs w/the 'persuader'. I kept tapping until I couldn't get them to fit, then took some pliers & slightly opened them enough to install the pads. Worked like a charm.

07-12-2003, 09:40 AM	#1
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	need help Found the ticking in my front end but now need help. It is the brake pad moving around in caliper up and down. How can I stop this? I tried to bend the hangers but no luck an other ideas? I was thinking as a last resort a plastic wire tie on the end no over pad of course but over the two ends??? Desprate for help. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

07-12-2003, 10:24 AM	#2
boataddict26 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Central Florida Posts: 726	The wire tie wont work. The brakes get WAY to hot and will melt the plastic. If your brake pads have movment you are either missing a keeper or you have the wrong pads. __________________ 1978 Chevy C10 Currently under resto. 350 Getting face lift. .060, JEpistons, Modify heads. More will come with money.

07-12-2003, 10:38 AM	#3
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Do you think the ends of the pads get that hot? It is the only thing I can think of? __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

07-12-2003, 10:39 AM	#4
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Its not even on the pad it self it is on the metal ears. __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

07-12-2003, 11:47 AM	#5
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Ok here is the scoop I think I will leave the plastic ties on and see what happens if they melt off, no harm no foul. Checked the other side, it is the same way just makes no noise because the rotor is not as warped. Should I just get new pads and rotors and get it over with? If so what rotor and pad combo works best? 4x4 daily driver light off road? Thanks __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

07-12-2003, 07:54 PM	#6
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	ttt __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

07-13-2003, 07:25 AM	#7
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	Try some blue silicone gasket maker. Put it on the ears and where the piston contacts the pad. This will keep it from moving and no problems with heat. __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

07-13-2003, 09:23 AM	#8
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	they sell stuff called brake noise stop basically its high heat silicone an you smear it all over the back of the pad and it more or less glues itself to the brake caliper piston and will hold it from moving around. In addition there is suppoused to be a little cllip that attaches to the back of the brake pad and that rides in the recessed round part of the caliper and keeps the pad from moving.If that is missing "Help" pr Motormite" may sell replacements at your local auto parts store.. these clips should also come with a new set of pads if youre low on brake anyway __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

07-13-2003, 05:01 PM	#9
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,064	76 Bonanza, just keep bending those tabs down until it's difficult to slide the pad into place then slightly open it up enough to install. I just had to do this last night. On my 68, when I had this problem, I was able to bend the tabs enough w/everything mounted in place. When doing this to my 74 last night, there was no way I could get them to bend enough to prevent movement so I had to pull the caliper loose & take the pads completely out to bend the tabs w/the 'persuader'. I kept tapping until I couldn't get them to fit, then took some pliers & slightly opened them enough to install the pads. Worked like a charm. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*



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