Have questions on R/R rusty floors...

[manimal]

I am a bit intimidated with this, NEVER replaced rusty floors. Any pointers would be GREATLY appreciated.....where to get the BEST fitting panels... So far my outer rocker panels are in VERY nice shape,but the kick panel and floor pan..not so much. Thank you VERY much.

[rs74]

I am contemplating this too. I have a section on my drivers side that needs replaced. I thought I might do it myself too. It would make my first one as well.

[donut]

Here's a thread I had bookmarked when I did mine. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...ic,5661.0.html
I'm sure there are a few on this site also.

As far as panels, no valuable input. I just happened to have a Keystone store somewhat near, and they had all the crash/rust parts. Mine was more a patch it up for a few more years build, rather than a resto-mod.

[manimal]

so, that's IT!? I've noticed a lot lately on forums that if BIG money is not spent on a project or it does not fit a certain criteria....it gets VERY LITTLE attention.
I know there have been many people that have done this....post up guys!
BTW Thank You to those that have posted.....

[willett]

Take it from me. If it looks solid but its in close proximity to heavy rust eg. Cab supports and outer rockers it is probably being held together by paint.

I got my panels through cross Canada parts. They were a hell of a lot thicker than the LMC panels. Look them up.

[tucsonjwt]

I believe Keith Seymore did the floors on his red truck. If you wade through his long introductory post I think it is in there somewhere,

Of course, I always add my $.02 to just get a rust free truck from the southwest for about $2-$3K and salvage what you can from your existing truck. I think you will always be money and time ahead with a good rust free body to start with. Plus, you will have a true rust free truck and not one that has been obviously patched up - better resale when the time comes to sell it. I don't like or trust rusted vehicles and I come from the rust belt.

Since you are in Kali I don't know why you would not just get a rust free body to start with. I know I have seen rusty trucks from the coast, but even if you travel next door to my neck of the woods you will find rust free squares all over the place - maybe some dents but no rust. Just check CL for AZ an NM.

[Telecasterjoey]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=433819

Here's a link to my cab repair thread. Very similar rust issues.

[manimal]

Thank You! that is the kind of info I am needing.

[manimal]

So I take it I should BUTT weld these in? I know a lap joint is stronger,but a BUTT joint is cleaner looking....which should I do?

[Telecasterjoey]

Mine are all butt joints, done with short tack welds, you don't want to try to run a bead on sheet metal.
Tack, wait, tack, wait. Slow process but you'll have much less warpage on the sheet metal and less chance of burning through the metal.

Obviously on hidden spots you can go a little faster.

When welding the kick panel and rockers on I tried to mimic the factory spot welds rather than just wwelding them anywhere.

I pre drilled holes in the kick panel and when put in place I filled them all back in, same deal with the outer rockers.

Hope this helps.

Any questions just ask.

[76on44s]

Tabco

[rs74]

Lance, I called yesterday and got a price on some floorpans and other pieces for my truck. Some were keystone and some goodmark. The floorpans were $38.50 a piece. Here is what I tore into and found yesterday. Passneger side not too bad but does need attention. Going to wire wheel it to see just how bad it is.

[manimal]

Wow...and to think I am ready to scrap mine because of the floor rust I have!