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Old 07-13-2003, 06:02 PM   #1
1970blazin
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Smooth blazer top pics

Here's my blazer top almost ready for paint. My friend has a boat building business and he hand sanded and fixed all the cracks in the top and hatch for $450.00! It looks so sweet. Painting it a semiflat white and the 70 blazer stock dark blue!
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Old 07-13-2003, 06:03 PM   #2
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another shot

.
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Old 07-13-2003, 06:04 PM   #3
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hatch

another pic- the hatch
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Old 07-13-2003, 06:20 PM   #4
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Wow!! That looks great!!! I need to talk to you about him doing some work to mine. We talked about the rear hatch but I didn't even think about repairing the old work that the other body shop screwed up. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:52 AM   #5
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Wes- I can give you the guys name that did the work if you want to. His business is Nisqually Boat Building I think - Phil Annus is his name. He probably will give you a quote if you bring your top to him and tell him what you want. My top is the first blazer top he has worked on, but this guy is talented. His shop is on Rich Road. You can call me if you are really interested.
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Old 07-14-2003, 11:31 PM   #6
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ttt
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Old 07-15-2003, 03:57 AM   #7
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phil annus
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Old 07-15-2003, 09:11 AM   #8
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oooh its perty, what kinda paint is that? Looks sprayed on.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:58 AM   #9
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That's going to be outstanding.
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Old 07-15-2003, 12:29 PM   #10
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Gee-Emm
It's not even painted yet that is just his fiberglass work. I am not sure how he does it. It looks like he must spray on the "fiberglass" and then he sands it all down. It is unbelievably straight and smooth!
And yes the guys name is Phil Annus - I'm sure he has heard it all Ha! Ha! That hatch and top had some good cracks and he made them look brand new. He is redoing another hatch for me that I had on hand and I will be selling that one. It comes with all the hardware and a key. Anyone interested let me know.
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Old 07-15-2003, 01:31 PM   #11
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Here's mine with a nice shiny smooth top!
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Old 07-15-2003, 01:35 PM   #12
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Got Keys for your hatch?

Off the current topic but if anyone needs a locking handle for their hatch you can buy a brand new one from pretty much any hardware store for less then 10 bucks. Just go to the garage door hardware section and look for a green blister type package. I don't know if the handle that came on my Jimmy had been replaced or not sometime during its life, but this garage handle was indentical to it. I have seen another Jimmy top and the handle it had on it was a tiny bit different but if you were looking at the two types side by side you probably wouldnt be able to see a difference.
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Old 07-15-2003, 05:12 PM   #13
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BigDave-
Thats looks great- how did you do yours, and did you paint it exactly like you blazer? I am painting my blazer dark blue, and the hatch will be white with a bit of a flattner added so it isn't too shiny. I'm hoping it looks as good as yours.
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Old 07-17-2003, 03:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1970blazin
BigDave-
Thats looks great- how did you do yours, and did you paint it exactly like you blazer? I am painting my blazer dark blue, and the hatch will be white with a bit of a flattner added so it isn't too shiny. I'm hoping it looks as good as yours.
I had someone do it for me since I have had no luck with body work. It was sanded, filled, cracks fixed, then primered and painted. It is Chevy white to match the truck when it was done. I get lots of compliments on it with or without the top.

I also had the bed rails filled and painted so when the top was off it looks like a regular truck bed. I hold the top on with billet style C-clamps.
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Old 07-17-2003, 05:03 PM   #15
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Big Dave-
Did filling those holes in you bedrails help with the leaking or does you top leak at all. I have been told I won't be able to keep my blazer from leaking if I am going to have the top on and off. I live in WA and it rains 80% of the time around here, but in the summer I am going topless! I would like my top to keep the rain and drips out. Any advice.
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Old 07-17-2003, 05:09 PM   #16
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1970blazin - I used to have a '72 and I would pull the top on & off all the time. I usually could get a good seal and it wouldn't leak. I assume that you are going to have all new rubber on the top and the truck since you are repainting both. If you take your time and make sure it is all lined up before tightening it, you should be ok. If you don't get a good seal, loosen it up and slide the top back a bid. Then reposition it until it is lined up properly. You should be ok. Even if it does leak a little, it won't be a waterfall hitting you in the face.
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Old 07-17-2003, 05:41 PM   #17
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Bouncytruck-
Was the top on you 72 a singlewall top or dblwall. I have heard the doublewall tops aren't as good as the singlewall tops. The top I am putting on is a SW, but I took a DW off this blazer when I bought it. The DW tops have a seam down the middle, and they don't seem as resilient as the SW tops. I am putting new seals on all the blazer, I still haven't gotten that blazer back from the painter. He is supposedly spraying the BC today, Then he is doing the Clear Coat, I'm not sure how much longer before I have it back!!- I am getting so excited to put it back together and drive it!
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Old 07-17-2003, 06:54 PM   #18
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How much does a single wall weigh? How many people to take it off and on?
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by 67cst
phil annus
O.K. I have to reply.
bahahahahahaha
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:19 PM   #20
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I am not sure how much it weighs, but my wife and I took it off...(With my forklift) Ha Ha Ha! I am building a lift in my shop that will be specifically to take my top on and off without hurting it or my back. I figure the easier it is to take on and off the more I will want in off in the summer. No hassles.
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:20 PM   #21
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My old '72 had a double wall. It was in really good shape and didn't have any splitting at the middle seam. It was heavy. My '69 has a single wall but since I really haven't done anything with it (it is just sittting in the side yard) I couldn't tell you how heavy it is or if it seals up.

ColoradoK5.com has some ideas for a pully system to lift the hard top on/off. It looks pretty good, if your garage is tall enough.
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1970blazin
Big Dave-
Did filling those holes in you bedrails help with the leaking or does you top leak at all. I have been told I won't be able to keep my blazer from leaking if I am going to have the top on and off. I live in WA and it rains 80% of the time around here, but in the summer I am going topless! I would like my top to keep the rain and drips out. Any advice.
I use camper foam on the bed rails and around the brim and it does not leak at all. If you install a full set of seals and channels in the rear hatch it will also not leak. Mine used to leak in the side windows before I sealed them. Now it is completely leak free.
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Old 07-18-2003, 03:01 PM   #23
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Originally posted by 1970blazin
I am not sure how much it weighs, but my wife and I took it off...(With my forklift) Ha Ha Ha! I am building a lift in my shop that will be specifically to take my top on and off without hurting it or my back. I figure the easier it is to take on and off the more I will want in off in the summer. No hassles.
I have a three hole carport at the house. I mounted a 500lb boat trailer winch to the inside face of one of the posts. I placed a pulley straight above it in the joist and then placed a pulley in the dead center of the middle parking space. I place a 2X6 with eyes on each end and rollers underneath under the front and back of the top. I have precut cotton rope tied to quick release hooks for each 2X6. Each cotton rope has a floating quick release hook that connects to a ring which is dropped from the winch.

I lift the top from the inside using my back and place the 2X6's where I want them. I then fasten one end of the cotton rope to the right front eye. Then I fasten one end of the cotton rope to the right rear eye. I string the other ends over the top and then fasten them. I then stand on the tailgate and bring the floating hooks to the middle of the top and fasten them to the ring. I then crank the top off of the truck until I have some clearance. I can now slide the 2X6's forward or backward for balance and then I raise it enough to drive the truck from underneath it. I then lower the top to the ground and wheel it out of the way. This take me about 10 minutes.
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Old 07-18-2003, 09:06 PM   #24
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The tops weigh about 300lbs
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