In tank EFI pump

[Nev68]

Hi All,
I am trying to get everything together in preparation for a retro fit EFI (FAST EZ) on our 56 truck
Has anyone done a retro fit of an in tank fuel pump?
I am trying to get some idea of fittings required and how the pump should be fitted. (i.e Can I have the pump coming off of the existing sending unit / pickup?)

Thanks in advance

[Nev68]

A bit more background info.
I am looking a this kit
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ez-e...-pump-kithtml/

The kit is supplied with a pump and instructions show installation like this;

So if I want to retro fit this pump to an existing tank (for carby motor) can I;
1. use the existing fuel pickup / sender unit in the tank an attach the new electric fuel pump, or
2. am I better off having a dedicated fuel pick line for the pump with a separate sender for the fuel gauge? (as shown in image above)

[1project2many]

I have done this. Back in 92 or so, actually. I removed original sender and made a cover where it was mounted then made a new hole for the sender plus pump. I built the sender from scratch using an in-tank sender from another GM vehicle to donate parts. What I have is essentially a copy of a GM sender with the supply and return lines matched to my tank, a custom top plate, and a sender that matches the gauge in my truck. The same design sender will work for port fuel injection and for TBI. You don't need any expensive fittings or kits and you can use an inexpensive, over the counter pump for replacement if it fails. Here's an example of the style of sending unit I used


BTW, that link above gives a 404, page not found.

Also take a look at this page for another solution using GM parts. http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...l-Pump-Upgrade

Two considerations if you are using the OE tank or a tank not designed for EFI. 1) You will need some baffling to prevent the fuel from sloshing on corners and causing driveability issues. The fuel "cup" system in the link I posted will prevent this. Making a custom sender like the early '90s style will require you to fabricate baffles (not too difficult). Maybe the FAST system has something included? 2) Very important. Early non-efi tanks like the original '56 tank, are not designed to handle large amounts of fuel vapor. Most fuel injection systems circulate fuel from the tank to the engine and back. This fuel gets warm and vapors form in the tank. If you do design a way to vent / purge the vapors, they will find a way to escape the tank. If the tank is sealed well enough then vapor pressure may overcome the vent in the cap, which is about 2-8 psi, and the worst you'll get is some buildup around the filler neck. If the tank or sender is not sealed well enough you'll have fuel smell at the tank and possibly leakage, too. If that tank's in the cab, so's the smell and the fuel. So plan accordingly.

[PurdueSD]

Another option may be to consider an oem tank and pump/sender. I am running tbi so i did some research and found a similar era tbi vehicle tank that fit nice. Brand new tank andnpump/sender from rock auto cost me like a hundred bucks.

I dont see why it would be any different for efi, make sure the tank/pump you choose supports the volume and horsepower u need.

[Katrina/10]

How about this? It's a sender for a 71 tank modified for a fuel pump.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Nev68

A bit more background info.
I am looking a this kit
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/ez-e...-pump-kithtml/

The kit is supplied with a pump and instructions show installation like this;

So if I want to retro fit this pump to an existing tank (for carby motor) can I;
1. use the existing fuel pickup / sender unit in the tank an attach the new electric fuel pump, or
2. am I better off having a dedicated fuel pick line for the pump with a separate sender for the fuel gauge? (as shown in image above)

With that setup I believe exactly what you are asking is they way they designed it to work. Take out the sending unit and after having the holes for the in tank pump in the right spots you slip the pump in through the sending unit hole and run it up through the hole you drilled for it's fittings. That may mean borrowing a small pair of hands to snake it in there if your hand doesn't fit in the hole. I did kind of the same thing when I put a pickup tube in my tank from the top rather than use the old one that fed the fuel line from the bottom of the tank and was leaking.

A few things that I look at on any critical part though are:

Can I reasonably expect to find a replacement for this part if I need one. Meaning having a wear part that is hard to find a replacement for in short order may cause problems on a road trip and ruin the trip. If the only place a guy can get a certain part from is a little shop outside of Memphis and you are in Butte Montana on a cross country trip and the part fails you may end up spending a few days in a Butte Montana motel room that you didn't plan on where a more common part might be found at Napa, O'reilly's or a wrecking yard and get you going again in a few hours or less.

Then, what is the cost of the part. Some "trick" parts from a vendor may cost far more than an equal eom style replacement part like the other guys were showing that they used.

Lastly is the process involved to replace said part. Can you reasonably expect to be able to replace the part on the road or have it replaced easily in a shop after being towed in or will the truck have to be torn half apart to replace the part? That is something we all need to think about when building a truck we intend to drive long distances. It's kind of like the lack of forethought General Motors put in on the design of one model of Buick back about 30 years ago. To replace a tail light bulb step one was raise car and remove rear bumper. For most of us dropping a tank to replace a pump is perfectly acceptable or even unbolting the bed and lifting it up high enough to get to the fuel pump may be simple enough that we don't worry about it too much. Something to think about though.

[_Ogre]

i like what katrina did with the stock sending unit.
you could drill a hole next to the sender for the return line and be able to nut the fitting thru the sender hole.

[01spirit750]

Okay so I am getting setup to do this as well.

Please note this is my "plan" and I have not done this yet.

Here is what I found
1. The stock sending unit / fuel pickup hole in the tank is too small to fit the intank fuel pump thru (need to confirm this).
2. I chose to get a "tanks" pick up setup. I will put a new hole in the top of the tank.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd253.htm

with the threaded 6 hole mounting ring

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd100.htm

I will then replace the stock pick up with a sending unit only unit.

http://www.bobschevytrucks.com/1947-...-pl6020a3.html

Thats the plan...

[Angryman117]

I went with a stock 31 gallon tank from an 89 blazer for my swap. Picked it up from a local salvage yard for $70. All I had to do was swap in a new fuel pump and high pressure line in the tank. Because the 89 was TBI the tank had the baffles, and return lines plumbed in.

Here is a picture of it installed in my 47 chevy 1/2 ton frame.

[1project2many]

01spirit is on the right track. The stock hole is too small for the pump so you'll need a new one. The backup ring is important because the tank sheet metal is not strong enough to prevent metal distortion when the new sender is tightened enough to seal the tank. Be sure to use a gasket compatible with today's gasoline. Cork/rubber generally doesn't last with fuel containing ethanol. I used a nitrile sheet from Grainger for mine.

I'll dig out some pictures when I get home tonight or maybe tomorrow.

[Nev68]

Thanks guys, lots of alternatives here.
I like the idea of using an OEM pump carrier, since I am in Australia I need to look at GM products like Commodore (you might know it as a G8 http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...xp_first_test/ )
The kit I am looking at is the FAST EZ EFI 2.0
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-...-complete-kits

[Speedbumpauto]

I'm using the same EFI unit except 2 throttle bodies on a tunnel ram. I'm not sure if you're relocating the tank but I used a Tanks poly unit(17gal) that had an in tank option with a Walbro 255gph pump kit. I called FAST and they assured me this pump would do the job with their unit. I ordered the EZ kit without the pump kit and subbed the one from Tanks and wired my own relay which is easy to do since FAST shows the computer ground that activates the relay. It will proably fire this week or so...so I cannot guarantee everything works but I think it will. Have pics/more info if you want.

[ZR2RICK]

Here's a link to the set up I used,
uses their mounting kit and a stock late model GM pump assy. http://vetteworksonline.net/ls1_conversion_fuel.htm