S10 swap or not?

[MidLifer]

I've read a couple dozen of the S10 build threads here, and on Stovebolt as well. I'm working on an overall direction for my next project which will be the rebuild of a 1950 3100 that I recently acquired. My goal is to have a truck that drives well, and I'm not looking to drop it/bag it/slam it/etc. Most if not all of the S10 swap threads I've read are guys that have done modifications to ride height, and I'm not going that way.

I also want to put a T5 tranny in it, which means going to open driveline and a "modern" rear.

I've got 2 running 235's and want to keep that powerplant. I'm going for a stockish look and height, will probably use Vintiques steelies for wheels and 215/75 tires.

There is nothing wrong with the original frame. I could do MII IFS kit in the front, a Nova/Camaro rear, a new driveshaft and a T5, but when I add up the costs it gets spendy. Or I could buy a used S10 for a couple hundred bucks, rebuild the steering/driveline, and probably end up a few thousand ahead, which would go a long way toward paint work.

Thoughts/opinions? Pros/cons of the S10 swap? Am I better off keeping the frame I have? I've heard that track width is an issue with S10 axles?

[ozzie50]

I am in the middle of an s10 swap and have been for some time. It is a money vs. time thing. If I had a decent budget I would just do the front end. I did an s10 swap because I had an engine, s10 and AD truck. I still have my orginal frame and if I ever get out of student loan debt and get ahead I can always go back. But the s10 swap is able to get me on the road cheaper but there is so much work involved. In my opinion I would go with a MII if you could. This is not saying the s10 is not a great option but a lot and a lot of time.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by ozzie50

the s10 swap is able to get me on the road cheaper but there is so much work involved.

Well said.
I've done a Camaro clip on a 54, and I'm about 90% done with a S-10/53.
The Camaro clip was MUCH easier.
I enjoy fab work, but the S-10 swap fab is very time consuming.

[MidLifer]

Are you guys fabbing up your body mounts yourselves or buying one of the kits available? Is that where all the work is?

[ozzie50]

I made my body mounts. The little work comes in with the radiator support, brakes, steering column, cuting the inner fenders finding, manifolds that work well. I am just now finally mounting my bed/running boards which is not easy either. I have benefited with their being smarter people then myself on this board so I have not had to reinvent much, but all can cause frustration and working on the truck all day and nothing really getting done.

[mr48chev]

With a 235 powered truck at stock height I'd think that you might be better off just doing what needs to be done to the original front axle and suspension and swapping rear ends and going from there. The ride might not be quite as smooth as a coil spring suspension and the steering may be a bit harder but with the big stock wheel and a well greased front end in good shape and tires that aren't too wide it isn't that bad in the long run. A set of 53/54 Car drums and backing plates can be swapped pretty easily to give five lug front brakes albet with drums rather than disks.

Another option that might not be that expensive where you live is a Jag XJ 6 front suspension from an 80 something that unbolts from the Jag donor complete in one unit with disk brakes and power rack and pinion. They don't require cutting your frame except possibly for rack and pinion clearance. I've been looking into those as the Jag wheelbase at 113 inches for the Jag is a lot closer to our Chevy trucks wheelbases than the MII at 96.2 inches.

I've done a first generation Camaro clip install on my 48 in the past and drove it a lot of miles and it drove great but I had to hack the sheet metal of the front end up pretty bad to get it to fit. Second Generation (mullet Camaro) suspension is even more invasive as far as cutting the front end sheet metal goes and usually requires a new core support and different radiator. Most S-10 installs place the cab nose and bed several inches above the S-10 frame getting around some of the hacking to the sheet metal.

Quickest independent swap: The bolt on MII setup from Speedway or a couple of other vendors. Two guys with a tape measure and half inch drill and hand full of wrenches can do one in a day fairly easily and they are beyond simple. The cost of the crossmember hits the pocket a bit harder but the payoff is that it is an easy garage/driveway job and the no welding may be a plus in some areas of the US and Canada where modifications requiring welding are looked on with a bit of suspicion by the local authorities because of so many suspect welds on vehicles in the past few years.

I've said it all too many times, and that is if a guy has a good solid, square and straight original frame to start with use it and go from there as you will end up with a better truck in the long run. If you start with a truck that has no frame, a junk frame due to previous mods, rust or wrecks go with the S-10 swap.

[av8tr33337]

I am doing the S10 Chassis swap for budget reasons. Without lowering spindles and lower blocks it actually sets about stock height But you could loose a couple inches of depth from your bed. as I anticipate I will. They are all correct in saying that the chassis swap is more time consuming. Look at the YouTube video in my signature and several other videos I have there on the swap. This might give you an idea of what you are in store for with the chassis swap. If money was not an issue for me I would go with a MII IFS. It just wasn't something I could do budget wise.

Here is something else that might help you

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=604588

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

Are you guys fabbing up your body mounts yourselves or buying one of the kits available? Is that where all the work is?

I made my own. It's not hard to make the mounts, just figuring out where to mount stuff. The cab and bed be have to be aligned perfectly to leave exact room for running boards. Measurements off frame, getting everything level, basically just a lot of planning, not so much work, but lots of figuring and planning and measuring. I wouldn't go this route again. Just my 2c

[Atommik]

I also did the s-10 swap. Finances were the main reason for me. I do bodywork for a living so the fab work wasn't so bad for me to handle, but I don't think that it is too overwhelming for a beginner. I used diagrams off of this forum to base my cab mounts on. I built my own box so the bed mounts were totally different than the originals.
Most of the "obstacles" I encountered, (steering shaft, exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, Radiator and mounts/ support) were overcome with help from this forum and online parts catalogs and a lot of thinking, figuring, and planning, and some re-doing!
I haven't done anything to the ride height. I may lower it a little. I'll decide after I mount the front bumper.
The narrow track width does need to be addressed. I went with a 4x4 rear s-10 axle and 2" spacers, and 2" spacers in front. If I get different wheels, I will order the wheels with the correct offset so I won't need the spacers.
So far I am very happy with it!!

[msaintg]

If all you want is something that 'drives well' and still use the old power plant, AND your frame is still good, it would be less work just keeping your old frame and changing out suspension parts (that can be done in stages so you could budget parts and keep driving it) I ONLY did the S10 swap because my frame was not good AND I wanted a complete modern drivetrain..... OH, and it 'drives VERY well'

[MidLifer]

Thanks everyone for your thoughtful, thorough and educational input. This forum is the best money I spend every year on my hobby.

I think I'm convinced to stick with the original frame, and perhaps even the original steering and suspension. I do want to do front discs, as I do not trust Huck brakes in modern traffic conditions. I would hate to be the guy who ran over a Cub Scout during the annual parade...j/k.

As far as the driveline, a T5 and Camaro/Nova rear sounds like the plan. I don't have the original wheels anyway, so going to 5-lug won't be an issue.

Just finishing up my garage updates (maxjax went in last month, then a new heater, now some structural work to keep the old thing from falling in on me) and after the holidays I plan to start the teardown. I'll get a build thread up when the time comes.

Thanks again and happy Thanksgiving!

[54 jimmy]

I agree I did an s10 swap on my 54 gmc because the original frame was bad. if your frame is good stick with it. upgrade the front brakes. swap the rear for a newer one. put the t5 in and drive the wheels off of it. if I had to redo mine I would have looked harder for an original frame to swap my body on.