Simple hidden system? iPhone controlled

[dracko]

I know very little about audio systems. So please bear with me, I currently just have the factory AM radio. I'd like to put an amp under my seat with a couple speakers under the seat that I can control entirely from my iPhone. Is this possible or do I have to have an actual head unit with a face plate and remote?

I'd be cool with just laying and aux cable on the bench seat but a Bluetooth amp would be cool too. Any advice on what to buy is appreciated.

[JWall]

Check out the PXi50.2 and the PXiBT50.2 at the link below.
They are amplified controllers without the need for a head unit. You can add amps, etc too.
The PXiBT50.2 has bluetooth or cable connections or the PXi50.2 uses cables.
http://www.kicker.com/content/Power_Sports

I plan on getting one for the 76 and leaving the factory radio in place.

[dracko]

Thanks man that's exactly what I'm looking for. Will be nice to keep the factory radio setup and keep the glovebox empty. Think I'm going to screw it to the floor under the seat.

[ItWillBeSlow]

Do you guys know what would beinvolved with adding 4 speakers to that pxi50.2?

RMS Output @ 2 Ohms 25 watts X 2
RMS Output @ 4 Ohms 15 watts X 2

Does this mean you can put (4) 4 Ohm speakers on this unit (parallel to 2 ohms per channel), and get 12.5 watts per speaker? Is that loud enough?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by ItWillBeSlow

Do you guys know what would beinvolved with adding 4 speakers to that pxi50.2?

RMS Output @ 2 Ohms 25 watts X 2
RMS Output @ 4 Ohms 15 watts X 2

Does this mean you can put (4) 4 Ohm speakers on this unit (parallel to 2 ohms per channel), and get 12.5 watts per speaker? Is that loud enough?

That's pretty weak out puts if U ask me.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by ItWillBeSlow

Do you guys know what would beinvolved with adding 4 speakers to that pxi50.2?

RMS Output @ 2 Ohms 25 watts X 2
RMS Output @ 4 Ohms 15 watts X 2

Does this mean you can put (4) 4 Ohm speakers on this unit (parallel to 2 ohms per channel), and get 12.5 watts per speaker? Is that loud enough?

Power and loudness are not necessarily tied. There are a ton more things involved...in the sense that you need horsepower to go fast, but going fast doesn't mean you make high hp...if that analogy makes sense to ya.

That being said, that system is weak, and rediculous.


Go to an audio retailer and but a Marine Grade 3.5mini to RCA cable. This will hook your audio-out headphone jack from any small-electronic, and convert it to Stereo RCA, which 99% of amps use for input. You can then wire speakers off a 4 channel amp just like any other audio system.

4 Channel amps are plentiful, and can be had for like $40 used if you really wanna keep it cheap. Even a good 4 channel will only run $150-250. On top of that, the cable itself will cost around $12-20.

If you want an added level of control, you can put an inline volume control in the line so the ipod doesn't have to be the volume control.

Doesn't get any more simple, total cost is as little as $20 if you already have an amp.

[nekkidhillbilly]

http://www.casmfg.com/Secretaudio.htm

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333MKI9...0272705&awdv=c

i feel either of these are better option

[Kaysen]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Power and loudness are not necessarily tied. There are a ton more things involved...in the sense that you need horsepower to go fast, but going fast doesn't mean you make high hp...if that analogy makes sense to ya.

That being said, that system is weak, and rediculous.


Go to an audio retailer and but a Marine Grade 3.5mini to RCA cable. This will hook your audio-out headphone jack from any small-electronic, and convert it to Stereo RCA, which 99% of amps use for input. You can then wire speakers off a 4 channel amp just like any other audio system.

4 Channel amps are plentiful, and can be had for like $40 used if you really wanna keep it cheap. Even a good 4 channel will only run $150-250. On top of that, the cable itself will cost around $12-20.

If you want an added level of control, you can put an inline volume control in the line so the ipod doesn't have to be the volume control.

Doesn't get any more simple, total cost is as little as $20 if you already have an amp.

Never thought of doing that but that's a great idea! I have a few amps from vehicles I've bought and sold so Im gonna have to check that out.

[motornut]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Power and loudness are not necessarily tied. There are a ton more things involved...in the sense that you need horsepower to go fast, but going fast doesn't mean you make high hp...if that analogy makes sense to ya.

That being said, that system is weak, and rediculous.


Go to an audio retailer and but a Marine Grade 3.5mini to RCA cable. This will hook your audio-out headphone jack from any small-electronic, and convert it to Stereo RCA, which 99% of amps use for input. You can then wire speakers off a 4 channel amp just like any other audio system.

4 Channel amps are plentiful, and can be had for like $40 used if you really wanna keep it cheap. Even a good 4 channel will only run $150-250. On top of that, the cable itself will cost around $12-20.

If you want an added level of control, you can put an inline volume control in the line so the ipod doesn't have to be the volume control.

Doesn't get any more simple, total cost is as little as $20 if you already have an amp.

I am setting up a friends 72 Buick,like this (hidden) same type of headphone plug hook up ,
and then he can walk into the house and hook up to the tv audio or house stereo input.

[84chevyguyid]

I bought a 4 channel amp from wally world and hooked it up to the six speakers I have in my 72 vette. I made sure the amp had gain controls for the front and rear so I could balance out the sound. I got a headphone to rca cable to go from my ipod to the amp then added rca splitter ends so I could go into all four inputs on the amp. It sounds suprisingly good and plenty of volume for top down cruising. I just use the ipod for the volume control and use the eq settings for the best sound. I only have a woppin 18 songs on my pod, but they are good ones! I also hooked my xm roady 2 to it and it works ok but the sound quality isnt quite as good as the ipod. All in all a pretty simple sound system.

[dracko]

Glad I procrastinated on this, gonna give the RCA cable with a 4 channel amp a try.

So I just run power directly to the amp off a keyed power source?

[motornut]

Originally Posted by dracko

Glad I procrastinated on this, gonna give the RCA cable with a 4 channel amp a try.

So I just run power directly to the amp off a keyed power source?

not to heavy duty or it will need its own power lines and fuse

[dracko]

Okay you mean not too heavy of an Amp or gauge wire? What wattage amp would be decent. I don't need anything crazy.

[MP&C]

While you're hiding things, may as well get rid of any wires going to the doors. This mod is done to a 55 wagon, but should adapt to the truck hinges of that era as I believe they are similar. I started with some 16 ga steel bent into small angles. The cut into the hinge was 5/8 deep. Hinge cleaned up, scribed, and then cut using .045 cutoff wheel in 4-1/2 grinder:









"Angle" pieces trimmed to fit opening, tacked in place, and heat applied to follow bends of the hinge:







Mig was used to tack weld and join the two halves, the tig was used to final weld the angles to the hinge. Then some grinding to smooth things out:












using the first wire as a pull wire, tied a knot into it and taped some sleeving tight on the other side of the knot to pull it through:







Then the same pull wire was stripped in the middle to pull the other wires through.



Installed, showing the hinge both open and closed with no chaffing issues:

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by dracko

So I just run power directly to the amp off a keyed power source?

usually an amp has it's own power directly from the battery
i have 2 amps in truk and they both require a 60 amp fuse

so no; don't run power from the ignition switch
most amps have a remote power on lead from the head unit,
it tells the amp to turn on, using a relay, when the head unit is turned on.
use a keyed on source for that wire, but wire the amps directly from the battery

a 4 channel amp won't have subwoofer power, buy a 5 channel amp or a 4 channel and an amp for the subwoofer
my system is wired similar to this sketch from crutchfield

[84chevyguyid]

So I just run power directly to the amp off a keyed power source?[/QUOTE]

I failed to mention that part. I ran a hot and ground to the amp then an ignition hot wire to power up the amp when the key is turned on.

Thats a cool way to hide wires to the door!

[motornut]

key or you could use a small switch to trigger the system.
I've done it that way, don't have to leave the keys in it
for best results, I use the same gauge wire on the neg and pos
to the amp , not just ground to chassis

[slowcpe]

I just hooked up my stereo this past Friday. My current setup is a 4-channel amp going to (4) speakers. I have the power ran to the battery, ground, and remote wire ran to the "radio" spot on my fuse block which is tied to the ignition switch. I ran an extra switch inline of he remote wire just in case I need to kill the amp while the truck was running.

I'm waiting on Clarion's new marine deck which is essentially a black box with houses everything including a tuner. Control is via a small wired remote I'm planning on hiding it under the dash or in the ashtray.

[dracko]

Okay cool thanks for all the wiring advice! Time to track down an Amp now. So, 4 channel=4 speakers, 2 channel=2 speakers?

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by MP&C

While you're hiding things, may as well get rid of any wires going to the doors. This mod is done to a 55 wagon, but should adapt to the truck hinges of that era as I believe they are similar. I started with some 16 ga steel bent into small angles. The cut into the hinge was 5/8 deep. Hinge cleaned up, scribed, and then cut using .045 cutoff wheel in 4-1/2 grinder:

Thats a nice touch man, lot of work for an "unseen" mod but it pays off down the line.

[srengr]

Originally Posted by dracko

I know very little about audio systems. So please bear with me, I currently just have the factory AM radio. I'd like to put an amp under my seat with a couple speakers under the seat that I can control entirely from my iPhone. Is this possible or do I have to have an actual head unit with a face plate and remote?

I'd be cool with just laying and aux cable on the bench seat but a Bluetooth amp would be cool too. Any advice on what to buy is appreciated.

dracko,

Here is the 'headless' iPhone system I did in my '59 TF. My gas tank is relocated under the bed, so the area behind the seat was open for 'audio' business. I built a speaker and subwoofer enclosure out of MDF and mounted it on a larger panel that I secured to the back of the cab. The amp, crossovers and iPhone interface box are mounted on the panel.

The system includes:

Amp: JL Audio 700/5
Subwoofer: JL Audio 13TW5v2-2
Speakers: JL Audio C5-650 (2 x 6.5" coax + 2 x 1" tweeters)
Original iPhone interface: Kicker PXi50.2 (replaced - see below)
Updated iPhone interface: Parrot MKi9200

I first installed the Kicker iPhone interface, but I was not really happy with it. The wired remote is clumsy and I had trouble with it freezing up. The volume control on the Kicker unit also does not have much resolution (about 10 clicks), so it is hard to get the 'right' volume sometimes.

After a lot more research, I bought the Parrot MKi9200 interface as a replacement. The MKi supports bluetooth stereo (A2DP) from smart phones. It includes a wireless remote, small color remote display (wired, but it unplugs so it can be hidden away when necessary) and a control box (blue box in photos below). The MKi has left and right line outs that input into the amp (you need to solder on the RCA connectors), with volume control from the remote (no need for a line level control). The unit syncs to the iPhone via bluetooth (or through a wired interface). The display unit has an SDHC slot, and the control box also has USB, line in, and microphone inputs. The MKi has hands free voice recognition dialing for the phone and noise canceling during calls. There is also voice confirmation of the remote functions, so you don't have to look at the display when you are driving to control the unit. All in all, a lot better solution than the Kicker unit.

Wiring the MKi is simple. Constant power from the battery and ground, plus a switched ignition source input (turns on/off the control unit). Line outputs to the amp. Easy.

I mounted my iPhone on the dash with a suction cup mount, and mounted MKi display using a stalk-type phone holder clamped to the seat frame. The remote control is mounted on the center console with velcro (so it is removable for storage). All my audio comes from iPhone apps (SiriusXM, Pandora, Tune-in, etc.) or from music on the SDHC card (32GB of storage).

A few install pics:






Update - Replaced Kicker PXi50.2 with Parrot MKi9200

[tommyd241]

^^^ Nice set-up!

[_Ogre]

nice setup srengr
do post some pics in the 47-59 forum

[patoruzrs73]

Hey Srengr, can you post how did you did the wiring? did you take into consideration the ohms of the kicker system? I was thinking about a similar system on my 67.. from what I ´ve read kicker system is Ok for me..

Please let me know.

Rgds

PRA