Double cardan joint

[1968k10blue]

Hey guys, I figured you might be able to help me out. I have a 68 K10 and the double cardan on the front driveshaft is worn out and causes a pretty major vibration if the front axle is spinning, although it doesnt vibrate without the hubs locked I am using it as a winter driver for the 4 wheel drive and I need to get the joint replaced. Does anyone here know where I could buy one? I know what will be involved to do it so no worries there I just cant find where to buy them. Any help would be great as always

[Vintage Windmills]

Curious as well since I have a 67 GMC. Have you tried Rock auto?

[argonaut]

Driveline shops will have the parts.
You can also get parts online at places like Northern Drivetrain.

[LONGHAIR]

If it that sloppy, you may need to have the weld-on yoke replaced. There is a pin on the end that holds a ball-like bearing. This engages the center section and keeps the two joints at equal angles. It has to be there, and they are often damaged if the joint is that loose.
You are probably going to have to find a local driveline shop to access it. Then either have it repaired or replaced as needed.
You may find an internet source that could save you some money, may take longer though, and you would be replacing the entire thing instead of just the worn end.

[1968k10blue]

I was hoping to be able to just buy the whole joint assembly in one peice, then have it pressed into the driveshaft, is this possible?

[JPBrecheisen]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

Hey guys, I figured you might be able to help me out. I have a 68 K10 and the double cardan on the front driveshaft is worn out and causes a pretty major vibration if the front axle is spinning, although it doesnt vibrate without the hubs locked I am using it as a winter driver for the 4 wheel drive and I need to get the joint replaced. Does anyone here know where I could buy one? I know what will be involved to do it so no worries there I just cant find where to buy them. Any help would be great as always

I've used these guys for several drive-line rebuilds on the older stuff. They've always been able to get what is needed. You might give them a shot but like Argonaut said, any drive-line shop should be able to source the parts you need.

Driveshaft Specialist Inc.

8327 McCullough Avenue
San Antonio TX 78216

210.342.6622 Phone
210.342.7074 Fax

1.866.455.6622 Toll Free
Orders and Free Tech Advice

sales.dsi@sbcglobal.net is our email address


Jonathon

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

I was hoping to be able to just buy the whole joint assembly in one peice, then have it pressed into the driveshaft, is this possible?

Nope. It has to be "assembled" in a specific order.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

If it that sloppy, you may need to have the weld-on yoke replaced. There is a pin on the end that holds a ball-like bearing. This engages the center section and keeps the two joints at equal angles. It has to be there, and they are often damaged if the joint is that loose.
You are probably going to have to find a local driveline shop to access it. Then either have it repaired or replaced as needed.
You may find an internet source that could save you some money, may take longer though, and you would be replacing the entire thing instead of just the worn end.

yup, if your joint is that worn, your centering ball is prob. just as worn out. shredded my front d.shaft last year-centering ball, wrecked, all u-joints, wrecked, slip shaft, ripped off splines. $460 for complete rebuild, cv was the most expensive part-$240. the d.shaft shop had a all new shaft-almost $800, they are worth fixing, unless you can CL's a cheap good one

[ryanroo]

How is the rest of the driveshaft? I had a complete new shaft with 1350 CV built for my jeep a few years ago and it was only $350ish. its been long enough that i don't remember, but it wasn't so bad for new driveline.

[1968k10blue]

Overall I think it is in good shape, the yolk doesnt seem to have any play so I think the worn out DC joint is my only problem, I will look into how much it may cost to have a driveline shop repair mine for me but I need to have the four wheel drive for ice fishing this winter! so we will see what is the best option for me thanks for the help guys you always have the knowledge I need to work on my truck

[ryanroo]

http://www.drivetrainindustries.com/

these guys have always had what i needed when it came to drive train stuff. from parts to entire built drive lines.

[jjzepplin]

Got my whole drive shaft from http://www.4xshaft.com/ These are top quality and trail proof! Worth every penny as mine are 13 years old and running perfectly.

[1968k10blue]

well I just contacted Da-Burb because I went and said hi to him here the other week and while I was there I saw one that he had sitting around, but I also just found on rockauto that you can buy a whole new reman front driveshaft for 280 without a core and 230 with one, so I might go that route unless Da-Burb does have one I can buy from him

[swamp rat]

Ever since my earliest recollection of this i have known it as a constant velocity joint..... Ya learn something new every day!

Great info too!

[1968k10blue]

also, I will take a video of what I am seeing and see what you guys think, I just hope thhe centering pin isnt broken, but unfortunately I wont know until I take it apart but I dont want to take it off the truck since I need the 4 wheel drive this winter if I want to go ice fishing at all (which I do). I just watched a video of someone replacing the U-joints in one and from what I am seeing, either my centering bearing is completely gone or the pin is broken. I will just have to get some prices and hope it lasts me till the end of winter, fingers crossed. if anything I might just buy a used one that I know works fine and replace the U-joints and use that, but thats equally as risky IMO.

And swamp rat, just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, here is a picture of what I am talking about so we dont get you confused on what is and isnt a CV joint,

[76k10]

These stock front shafts are absolutely not worth rebuilding. I got a custom made Double Cardon shaft off ebay for $270, and it was better than stock.

Money well spent.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

well I just contacted Da-Burb because I went and said hi to him here the other week and while I was there I saw one that he had sitting around, but I also just found on rockauto that you can buy a whole new reman front driveshaft for 280 without a core and 230 with one, so I might go that route unless Da-Burb does have one I can buy from him

$230? jeez! you guys have phenomenal prices south of the border. the cardon joint for my 1 ton was more then your entire shaft. seems like the trucks up here aren't the only things getting (drive)shafted

[ryanroo]

The joint in a driveline is a double cardan. at least the one we are talking about. they are considered near constant velocity. a CV joint is what you find in a halfshaft. like the front shaft of an IFS truck or a front wheel drive car half shaft.

1968k10blue
I am sightly confused about your dilemma. you dont have to loose the 4x4 in your truck for the entire winter. if you are concerned about downtime why not just order the reman shaft and have it ready. then you are talking about an hour or so. doesn't take that long to R&R the driveline. it is a pain to deal with the spicer style output, but thats part of the fun... either way if downtime is an issue you will have to have all of the parts that may possibly be broken in order to repair the current shaft. there are plenty of options available for a complete replacement shaft. that seems to be the most expedient solution if time is of the essence. i wouldnt do a lot of driving around with the shaft being wasted anyhow. it will prematurely wear the front output of the transfer case. same goes for the front pinion. the most likely issue would be that it just chucks the shaft in pieces.

[1968k10blue]

ryanroo
Okay, I know I have been jumping around through the thread a little, but I will try to explain it the best I can. Basically, when driving 25+MPH the truck will vibrate, but I have narrowed it down to the front driveshaft, since it vibrates the cab a good amount and it only happens when I have either the hubs locked or the transfer case in 4 wheel drive. I crawled underneath maybe a month or so ago to try to find the source of the vibration and noticed that this joint is able to be moved by hand, and it is not caused by worn out u joints, its hard to explain it any other way than that. I know what a bad U-joint looks like and thats not the problem, although it is probably due for a new set of them. since it is cristmas time I am fairly short on money and I also need this truck to make it to school in the morning if it snows since my other truck is 2wd and is horrendous in the snow, even with almost a half ton of sand in the back. my driveway is horrible when it comes to trying to get out of the house in the winter time so I need to have something to get to school/work when there is a decent bit of snow on the ground. so my main worry is if I buy all the parts to rebuild it and pull it off to find the centering pin is broken, im screwed, I will have no way to get anywhere when the white stuff flies and I have another vehicle parked in my driveway not doing anything other than getting in the way.

So long story short, tight on money, need the truck with little to no downtime.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

ryanroo
Okay, I know I have been jumping around through the thread a little, but I will try to explain it the best I can. Basically, when driving 25+MPH the truck will vibrate, but I have narrowed it down to the front driveshaft, since it vibrates the cab a good amount and it only happens when I have either the hubs locked or the transfer case in 4 wheel drive. I crawled underneath maybe a month or so ago to try to find the source of the vibration and noticed that this joint is able to be moved by hand, and it is not caused by worn out u joints, its hard to explain it any other way than that. I know what a bad U-joint looks like and thats not the problem, although it is probably due for a new set of them. since it is cristmas time I am fairly short on money and I also need this truck to make it to school in the morning if it snows since my other truck is 2wd and is horrendous in the snow, even with almost a half ton of sand in the back. my driveway is horrible when it comes to trying to get out of the house in the winter time so I need to have something to get to school/work when there is a decent bit of snow on the ground. so my main worry is if I buy all the parts to rebuild it and pull it off to find the centering pin is broken, im screwed, I will have no way to get anywhere when the white stuff flies and I have another vehicle parked in my driveway not doing anything other than getting in the way.

So long story short, tight on money, need the truck with little to no downtime.

Order all the parts to rebuild the shaft and tear into when you have a full day to work on it. Watch the weather for when no snow is in the forecast. If you get in a bind, drive the 2wd.

I drove a 88 chevy 2wd lwb v6 10miles to high school everyday here in MN. As long as you have decent tires and know how to drive, you can cope. Change your tires if they're that bad. A 2wd with good tires is just as good as a 4x4 with ****ty tires. Nevermind the fact you can actually stop when you want to.

[1968k10blue]

Yeah thats what I'm thinking on doing, but in the case that I need the whole driveshaft I think I would rather buy a used one to fix up myself, which was why I talked to da-burb cause that I think would be the safest route for me. and its not the roads that are the problem with my 2wd its my driveway, it is flat in front of the house then it turns and goes up hill, last year I had to be pulled out 3 times by my brother and im tired of not being able to do it I have ended up in the trees at the otherside of the driveway more times than I care to admit (plus i am kinda spoiled now after having the 4 wheel drive)

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 1968k10blue

And swamp rat, just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, here is a picture of what I am talking about so we dont get you confused on what is and isnt a CV joint,

Yea i was calling it the wrong thing all these years, kinda embarrassing.. Like i said, learn something new every day...

[ryanroo]

That makes more sense to me. if i was in your snow boots, i would try to find a decent used shaft that will bolt in. that way you are back in business until you can get a new/rebuilt unit. are you running the stock rockwell 221 or is it a later 205 t-case? If you can pull a measurement on the length of shaft (the mounting face of the double cardan joint to the center of the u-joint on the pinion) it will help you in searching for a replacement.

rebuilding them is not that big of a deal, but if the center pin yoke is damaged it becomes a little more extensive. if you pull the shaft, you may be able to tell if it is toast by looking but you may have to pull the joint apart to see. if it is, it is a cutting and welding operation. to do it correctly you need a lathe and a dial indicator. if you arent so equipped it is better to have a shop do it. at which point you will probably be close to or over the price of a new/reman shaft.

[1968k10blue]

thats exactly what my dilemma is, but it is a stock t221 so that makes it a little more difficult as I have heard they are harder to find parts for. a reman shaft is actually pretty inexpensive but it is just the wrong time of year to need one so I cant really afford it, and I am really trying to focus a little more on school, so I dont exactly have much time other than christmas break and spring break, but after june 6th it is home free

[SoCalK20]

I know it's clear across the country for you, but I've had good dealings with Driveshaft Superstore out of Phoenix, AZ. Good luck.