Aluminum Radiators

[77ChevySharkBite]

Hey guys just wanted to see what brand you were using on Aluminum Radiators, and how you were pleased with them?

I have a 77 c10 with a 350 I would say mild built. I'm needing to retire my stock radiator here soon and wanting to go Aluminum. What's the best bang for my buck not trying to break the bank of course just need something better.

I'm looking at this one, anyone have experience with them? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sg.../c10/year/1977

[Stickman]

I've owned two Ron Davis RCing rads, one for a 69 Buick Skulark GS and the other for a C-10. They both fit like a glove and workmanship is top of the line and both vehicles ran 15 to 20 degrees cooler once installed.

[old Rusty C10]

all the new replacement ones at the auto parts store are aluminum... whatever one advanced sells is the one I have it works fine although is a lot cheaper made than the old brass one

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks fellas!!

Yeah I just want to get a good radiator as mine like I said just needs to be retired, now going aluminum do I need to also run electric fans or can I still run the pulley driven fan?

[Axle]

Run whatever you want. Good 'ole stock fan clutch will do more than fine.

I've got two of the modern aluminum/plastic SPI replacement rads (can't get brass ones anymore unless you find somebody with old stock) and I gotta say that these rads are a lot better than the brass ones they replaced. Fit better, and cool extrememly well. I'm especially happy with the one that is in my Nova.

Alex.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks axle I really appreciate it man.

[cool68]

look for ones that are soldered and not the super cheap glued ones

[85Bowtie]

I just bought the generic aluminum radiator sold by Summit (made in USA) and it works great in front of a 550hp 440.

[willett]

I wonder longetivity-wise how an aluminum rad compares to brass. Aluminum doesn't really like constant rattling

[Pro Performance]

A lot of aftermarket radiators are aluminum, and don't think it is a huge concern. Even some OEM radiators are aluminum. We offer a few brands in radiators, and just let us know if we can help you out.

The BeCools do run a little more than other radiators, but they are nice quality units.

http://www.azproperformance.com/GM-T...num-Radiators/

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks for all the responses one question I also have, I know it might be hard to answer but could a 2 row handle say the upwards of around 300hp? I just want to only have to buy this once preferably, I'm not going to go wild with my truck right now it had headers, exhaust, intake/carb, and then going to put new heads and cam that'll be it. Would a 2 row be able to handle that or should I get a 3 row to be smart and on the safe side?

[piecesparts]

I fell for the hype and it has paid off, more than once. I put a "Be Cool" radiator in my truck and followed it up with electric fans. I had a couple times where the fans did not work and the radiator had more than enough capacity to keep the engine from overheating, in the middle of July.

The fans will not fail me now, I have redone my design to make it hard to fail.

[Pro Performance]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Thanks for all the responses one question I also have, I know it might be hard to answer but could a 2 row handle say the upwards of around 300hp? I just want to only have to buy this once preferably, I'm not going to go wild with my truck right now it had headers, exhaust, intake/carb, and then going to put new heads and cam that'll be it. Would a 2 row be able to handle that or should I get a 3 row to be smart and on the safe side?

In my opinion, you will be Ok with a 2-row, especially with a set of electric fans.

Originally Posted by piecesparts

I fell for the hype and it has paid off, more than once. I put a "Be Cool" radiator in my truck and followed it up with electric fans. I had a couple times where the fans did not work and the radiator had more than enough capacity to keep the engine from overheating, in the middle of July.

The fans will not fail me now, I have redone my design to make it hard to fail.

Good to hear! The BeCool is a nice setup, and is what I plan to run on my truck when the time comes.

[Jonboy]

Travis, can the champion radiator for the 73-87 be had with a port for a steam fitting (LS swap)?

[Pro Performance]

Yes, they can add a steam port on the passenger side tank for an additional $60.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Travis your awesome man!!! I might try and order a radiator here soon! If I do I'll PM you!

[cool68]

be sure to use a aluminum protector additive, or a Northern Sacrificial Anode Radiator Cap - this will help protect the new aluminum radiator, intake manifold, etc from corrosion.

[zaccaglin]

I got an all alluminum one from http://www.GenesisAutoParts.com and i have been very pleased with it. The price was right and the quality was perfect to my naked eye. I don't notice any bad welds on it or any of that. Plus with it being all aluminum i dont have to worry about the plastic sides splitting like others have said about the aluminum/plastic ones.

[Sodell]

Three row, good price...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=radiator

[slugish]

Had a Griffith 2 core alum.(Griffin ) unsure of spelling in my warmed up 400 for 10 years . One of the least expensive good radiaters out there . Even though its 2 core , the cores are larger than standard . Runs not over 180 in july & August in stop& go conditions . and 400,s are prone to overheating

[Axle]

Originally Posted by willett

I wonder longetivity-wise how an aluminum rad compares to brass. Aluminum doesn't really like constant rattling

Comparing todays aluminum-plastic rad to todays aftermarket brass, the aluminum rad outlasts the brass. The brass they are using today for rads is paper thin and does not hold up. The last brass one I bought (2001) definned itself in 5 years. The replacement (aluminum-plastic) for that particular car is 2 weeks away from being 8 years old, and still has all its fins and still keeps the temps in close check.

<rambling warning issued>
The old brass rad in my nova weighed 7 pounds more than the modern brass rad for my grand marquis. The nova rad is smaller, circa late 80's. Thicker materials and better fin retention, and lasted a couple decades.

Aluminum-plastic also has the advantage of lower purchase price. My jaw dropped when I got a price to recore my Nova's brass rad, and was told it ain't going to be old-skool quality brass, but the mediocre modern stuff I was complaing about that had disintegrated on the grand marquis. The grand marquis is what converted me to accept aluminum-plastic rads, I was still a 'brass is king' mindset and got a brass rad for the mgm when it needed a replacement. I was not impressed with how that turned out and went back to aluminum-plastic for that car, and subsequently in the nova and now truck.

One thing I still find amazing is that these new aluminum plastic contraptions actually fit correctly, have the mounting ears/holes in the correct location and generally drop in without a fight. The one in the nova fit like a glove and didn't even need any fiddling about to get everything attached to it.
<ramble warning ended>

One thing to add, if you do not have a coolant recovery system, and you do go to aluminum, add it. Aluminum longevity is compromised if you leave an air gap for expansion.

<stray ramble>
Re: rattling: thats why they sit in rubber cushions.

Alex.

[killthewabbit]

I replaced my stocker a month ago (was leaking) with a Napa branded stock replacement. It's been fine so far. No problems at all.

I was *thisclose* to buying one of these. Only thing that kept me from it was a few reviews I read that said the trans cooler threads weren't right.
http://www.championradiators.net/ser...m-4-Row/Detail