Bed Wood Finishing - Need tips!

[davepl]

I'm doing my bed wood, and I'm not a carpenter. I'm starting with the Mar-K bed wood kit. Below is what I've done so far, what I plan to do, and some things I need help with! Someone who's been through this or has carpentry skills can perhaps give me some pointers.

It came pre-sanded, I'd guess to maybe 80 grit. I did a pass of 60 & 100 on the bottom. On the top I did 60, 100, 150, 220, and 600. Yeah, I'm sore today. But the wood is almost glass-smooth on top.

Staining it is no problem. It's the top coat (varnish, whatever) that's giving me trouble. I had started with a high gloss oil-based Varathane, but the gloss was too high, so switched to "Old Master" urethane semi-gloss, and like it better.

However, try as I might, I have two issues:

1) Little specks in the clear. I don't think they are bubbles (none in the can, and I'm stirring not shaking). Yet letting it dry upside down made little difference, so I don't think its dust (or there'd at least be less). I'm sure this is common, anyone know what causes it and how to fix it?

2) Brush-marks and the START or END of the strokes. It flows out nicely except in some places where I've started or ended a brush stroke, since there is more clear there (or less, but a different amount). Since the boards are 9 feet long it's not like I can run the whole board without lifting the brush. So any tips on how to avoid this?

3) Also, I was going to do the bottom first. But I'm afraid it'll run down and around to the underside, which is the top. Do I mask the sides, or how should I prevent this?

I'm using high-quality brushes (3M stuff, $20 range). I'm applying the stain with a brush rather than rag. But it's fine, only the clear causes me grief.

Thanks for any tips! And if you've done the bed wood before and have handy tips you'd wish you'd know then, please share them!

[CC69Rat]

When I did mine, I used Minwax Helmsman Spar varnish and a Purdy brush ($25+ for the brush but it was worth it) Northern Red oak.

Initially the wood was right out of the planer so it was pretty slick. We did a good coat of SPAR, let it dry for several days then sanded with 100 grit if I recall. Another coat, dry .. 180 sand. Another coat, dry 220 sand. Coat, dry, 400. Coat, dry 600. By this time you could just about see yourself in it.

I wouldn't worry too much about brush strokes between coats, just do the best you can ( I started at one end to he board and went all the way to the other end without lifting the brush any more than I could help) The Purdy brush will let it lay out as it dries. In my research people suggest no more than 4-5 coats of SPAR. If you get it too thick it will get grey lookin after a while.

The little specks in it sounds like solvent pop to me. Are you maybe flash drying it? Is the stain under the clear good and cured? Maybe the two are reacting to one another (different brands?)

Oh ..

[BugzC10]

X2 on the Spar. I sprayed it on, three -five coats with a Wagner gun. I like the way it came out.

[FirstOwner69]

I used Minwax Spar Urethane semi-gloss and am pleased with the gloss level. I, too, had specks in the finish. They looked like fuzz to me. I tried different brushes including Purdy and even a foam brush. I followed the suggestions available on Mar-K's website (http://www.mar-k.com/installation_hints.aspx). I stirred, applied quite liberally, brushed in one direction, made sure to get the urethane in all the pre-drilled holes, and ran the brush lightly from one end of the board to the other after completing each side. I then used a lint free cloth to wipe under the board to remove any "drool". I did the bottom and sides of the boards first and sanded between coats without a sanding block (only used 220 grit), in a location separate from the room where I applied the urethane, just enough to get rid of the specks, and tack clothed to remove dust. I let the boards dry 6-8 hours minimum then flipped them over to do the top. I did this for 5 coats. I still had some specks in the finish coat (not sanded) but they are minimal and will likely only be seen by me. Note that I did only one coat on the bottom then one coat on the top. In other words I did not apply 5 coats to the bottom side before doing the top side.

The result:

[HotRod C/10]

Very nice.

[BugzC10]

counter sink the holes avoiding sharp edges. The spar tends to thin at sharp edges. I waited ~24hrs - 72hrs between coats. I applied 3-5 coats. I butted the boards against each other when I did the bottom sides. When I did the top, I left a wide gap between the boards to ensure the edges got good coverage. I applied extra coats with a brush on the ends.

[Steve Hafner]

. . . .

I finished my Red Oak, bought from Bruce Horkey, in May through July 2011 in my basement with the wood laid across 2X4's attached to two saw horses.

I rounded off ALL edges before any of the Old Masters dark walnut wiping stain was applied and then lightly sanded all surfaces.

I applied five coats of Old Masters Semi-gloss Marine Spar Varnish, lightly sanding the small bubbles out in between after each coat dried.

I applied the varnish, with foam brushes to the bottom of the boards first, allowing it to dry before doing the sides, ends and finally the top.

The first and second coats of varnish were thinned 75% varnish - 25% thinner and the third coat was thinned 90% varnish.

My boards are eight feet long and I did the final "pass" with the brush in one long swipe to make sure there weren't any "stop" marks in the varnish.

The fourth picture below, shows the same board with just one coat of stain ( left ) and after two coats of stain and the third coat of varnish ( right ).

I allowed the varnish to dry for at least a week in between the coats as recommended by Bruce. ( the basement is air conditioned, but I had to occasionally open the windows to get the SMELL out, letting more HUMIDITY in !!! )

The last picture shows the bed, two years later after two coats of Heller Glanz Carnauba Cream boat wax.

. . . .

[sstaten69]

Originally Posted by davepl

I'm doing my bed wood, and I'm not a carpenter. I'm starting with the Mar-K bed wood kit. Below is what I've done so far, what I plan to do, and some things I need help with! Someone who's been through this or has carpentry skills can perhaps give me some pointers.

It came pre-sanded, I'd guess to maybe 80 grit. I did a pass of 60 & 100 on the bottom. On the top I did 60, 100, 150, 220, and 600. Yeah, I'm sore today. But the wood is almost glass-smooth on top.

Staining it is no problem. It's the top coat (varnish, whatever) that's giving me trouble. I had started with a high gloss oil-based Varathane, but the gloss was too high, so switched to "Old Master" urethane semi-gloss, and like it better.

However, try as I might, I have two issues:

1) Little specks in the clear. I don't think they are bubbles (none in the can, and I'm stirring not shaking). Yet letting it dry upside down made little difference, so I don't think its dust (or there'd at least be less). I'm sure this is common, anyone know what causes it and how to fix it?

2) Brush-marks and the START or END of the strokes. It flows out nicely except in some places where I've started or ended a brush stroke, since there is more clear there (or less, but a different amount). Since the boards are 9 feet long it's not like I can run the whole board without lifting the brush. So any tips on how to avoid this?

3) Also, I was going to do the bottom first. But I'm afraid it'll run down and around to the underside, which is the top. Do I mask the sides, or how should I prevent this?

I'm using high-quality brushes (3M stuff, $20 range). I'm applying the stain with a brush rather than rag. But it's fine, only the clear causes me grief.

Thanks for any tips! And if you've done the bed wood before and have handy tips you'd wish you'd know then, please share them!

Okay I have been a woodworker for a few years,(but I dont claim to know everything) sanding the wood to 150 or even 180 grit is all that you should need. After you stain it let it dry overnite and watch for small little stain freckels, open grains as oak will and do breath. After apply your top coat in a thin coat when it dries sand it with 220 or even 320 grit. If it is to thick or you try to force dry it (heater or the sun) you will see little bubbels its the grain. let it air dry and again sand between coats wipe it clean with a tack cloth three coats should last you.. You should do both sides the same as to keep the boards balanced.. too much finish on one side can cause it to want to warp to the greater side before you put it on the truck.. As far as the brush marks.. um try after you coat the board get the brush wet with finish and very lightly go from one end to the other in one long stroke doing the whole board the same direction.. Hope my 2 cents helps out.. Steve

[JointTech]

clear always looks like crap when brushed on wood. I tried 4 different stains and methods on the last thing I was building. I think spraying it is the only way to get no brush marks and bubbles.

[davepl]

Many beautiful results above! Thanks for the tips so far!

Something a buddy mentioned that I don't see above I'll pass along too - he suggested three coats of clear before any serious sanding, because if you sand through the clear and hit your stain you'll be sad.

Also, holy cow, stir thoroughly. The test patches in the store were red (I'm using Golden Mahogany) but once well shaken they're much darker brown. I think the dark pigments must have been stuck at the bottom. Good news is I prefer the "real" color and it sort of matches the side trim.

One big question: I'm using semi-gloss; if I sand and buff it out on my last coat, won't that turn it into a full gloss, even though the product is semi-gloss?

[John H.]

Dave,

You may try to go down to Fisheries Marine Supply near Fremont. They have extensive products and guys that have applied them to sailboats and the marine trade. These finishes are built to get wet and have exposure to UV rays.

Just a thought. You probably won't have too much worry on the top, it is on the sides and under the metal. I sprayed the teak on my boat and it came out nice. If it gets dinged, moisture will find its way in.

[davepl]

Thanks for tip, John! I actually am indeed using a Marine Spar (Old Masters) topcoat; of course it could just say "Marine" as a marketing tactic, but presuming they're being straightforward it should be pretty moisture and UV resistant.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by davepl

One big question: I'm using semi-gloss; if I sand and buff it out on my last coat, won't that turn it into a full gloss, even though the product is semi-gloss?

Everything I've read said don't sand the final coat.

[Already Gone]

Subscribed

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by davepl

I'm doing my bed wood, and I'm not a carpenter. I'm starting with the Mar-K bed wood kit. Below is what I've done so far, what I plan to do, and some things I need help with! Someone who's been through this or has carpentry skills can perhaps give me some pointers.

It came pre-sanded, I'd guess to maybe 80 grit. I did a pass of 60 & 100 on the bottom. On the top I did 60, 100, 150, 220, and 600. Yeah, I'm sore today. But the wood is almost glass-smooth on top.

Staining it is no problem. It's the top coat (varnish, whatever) that's giving me trouble. I had started with a high gloss oil-based Varathane, but the gloss was too high, so switched to "Old Master" urethane semi-gloss, and like it better.

However, try as I might, I have two issues:

1) Little specks in the clear. I don't think they are bubbles (none in the can, and I'm stirring not shaking). Yet letting it dry upside down made little difference, so I don't think its dust (or there'd at least be less). I'm sure this is common, anyone know what causes it and how to fix it?

2) Brush-marks and the START or END of the strokes. It flows out nicely except in some places where I've started or ended a brush stroke, since there is more clear there (or less, but a different amount). Since the boards are 9 feet long it's not like I can run the whole board without lifting the brush. So any tips on how to avoid this?

3) Also, I was going to do the bottom first. But I'm afraid it'll run down and around to the underside, which is the top. Do I mask the sides, or how should I prevent this?

I'm using high-quality brushes (3M stuff, $20 range). I'm applying the stain with a brush rather than rag. But it's fine, only the clear causes me grief.

Thanks for any tips! And if you've done the bed wood before and have handy tips you'd wish you'd know then, please share them!

If you thin the Urethane 3 parts urethane to one part mineral spirits the brush marks will flow out at the ends of the stroke where the finish gets thinner due to your reducing the brush pressure. Don't use turpentine or any other thinner. Mineral spirits is oil based just like the urethane. The little flecks in the finish are dust. Probably sanding residue left in the pores of the wood that float to the top of the finish before it dries. Sand dry with 600 grit between coats. There should be no shiny patches after you finish sanding and before you put down the next coat. Plan on four coats minimum.