Air/Fuel sensor- Who's using these? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

AirMale · 07-18-2003, 05:34 PM

I want to know if these things really work accuratly. I'm considering the Edelbrock set-up because it looks like it will fit right above the heater controls(rectangular). Where does the O2 sensor go? I am getting new Ceramic headers so I don't want to tap into them. Can I weld the bung into the reducer right behind the header? Any help is appreciated

TIMSPEED · 07-18-2003, 08:56 PM

I have a O² sensor bung in my reducer and it worked fine. I wouldn't mess with the cheap stuff though, it won't even work right. I on the other hand, just borrowed my friends (he spent $500 on the kit for it.) It worked really well.

Mike76251 · 07-20-2003, 05:41 AM

I have a AutoMeter A/F guage in my dash and it works good.
You need the sensor as close to the engine as you can get it so it will heat up faster.I have mine in the collector and sometimes at idle it will lose its heat.
On that note......there are two kinds of sensors..........a two wire (unheated) and a four wire (heated). The unheated sensor is a lot cheaper ($19) and all you need unless that Eldebrock setup uses heated ones=not likely.

AirMale · 07-20-2003, 06:25 AM

What is the reading at full throttle? Does it show a full rich reading? I just want to be able to monitor any lean conditions on my new engine.

Mike76251 · 07-20-2003, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by AirMale
What is the reading at full throttle? Does it show a full rich reading? I just want to be able to monitor any lean conditions on my new engine.

That's a tough question............depends on what kind of carb you have and how good of tune the engine is in.

On mine, at heavy throttle, it leans out just a little from the 14.7 stoli mark. I have a recent Holley 650cfm.
Most of the time....my truck runs a little rich...the Holley is still stock from the factory.

I used the A/F guage on a couple of Q-Jets I used to have and the reading was all over the place. I will NEVER go back to a Q-Jet!
Mike

TIMSPEED · 07-20-2003, 11:23 PM

Well, at idle and cruise I could get mine at 14.5:1..but whenever I went WOT, it dropped to 11.5:1

I need to tune my carb...

rockman20 · 07-23-2003, 10:41 AM

Hey I get a short break from work to play!

I am running the A/F guage in my Cutlass. Works pretty good. I have mine welded into the collector of the header and it will lose heat at an idle. (It is even a heated sensor. I just don't think it gets hot enough on its own, it is just there to help speed up the heating process)

I am running a Edelbrock 750 on a basically stock 350. It is a bit too much carb for the engine. Cruising town and down the interstate I am just a bit on the rich side (leaned out the carb 3 steps on both sides) If I smash the throttle I get a bit of a rich burst and then it will lean out into the stoich area and hold it there until I let off.

It really is kind of a useless guage once you get the vehicle dialed in. If you want to tune a vehicle but don't want to spend the money and have a good digital multimeter, just buy the sensor. Weld it into the exhaust and hook your multimeter to it. Somwhere on the net there is a chart that shows you how to read your voltage readings and what it means as to how rich your system is.

Mike76251 · 07-23-2003, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rockman20
Hey I get a short break from work to play!

I am running the A/F guage in my Cutlass. Works pretty good. I have mine welded into the collector of the header and it will lose heat at an idle. (It is even a heated sensor. I just don't think it gets hot enough on its own, it is just there to help speed up the heating process)

You sure that third heating wire in that sensor has power?
How did you hook it up? Is it timed to cut off after the motor warms or on all the time?
Thanks
Mike

rockman20 · 07-23-2003, 02:30 PM

Tested the wire with my multimeter and I am getting voltage to it. It is connected to a switched output on my fuse block so as soon as the key is turn to the run position, it is getting power.

Tom · 07-23-2003, 02:44 PM

I have a autometer a/f guage in my 79, heated. Its welded into the drivers exasut tube behind the manifold and expander [2" outlets into 2.5" tubes] It dosen't loose its heat at idle, and it warms up so quick I don't usually use the heater. I run 14.7 at idle, a tad rich at WOT, and just a tad lean cruising on the freeway. I use a 600cfm carter

Mike76251 · 07-23-2003, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rockman20
Tested the wire with my multimeter and I am getting voltage to it. It is connected to a switched output on my fuse block so as soon as the key is turn to the run position, it is getting power.

Thanks for the reply Rockman!

rockman20 · 07-24-2003, 08:04 AM

No problem Mike!

It confuses me to as to why it cools off, but it doesn't bother me much. My main concern was the cruising/WOT anyways.

Thanks for throwing out suggestions!

07-18-2003, 05:34 PM	#1
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	Air/Fuel sensor- Who's using these? I want to know if these things really work accuratly. I'm considering the Edelbrock set-up because it looks like it will fit right above the heater controls(rectangular). Where does the O2 sensor go? I am getting new Ceramic headers so I don't want to tap into them. Can I weld the bung into the reducer right behind the header? Any help is appreciated __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

07-18-2003, 08:56 PM	#2
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	I have a O² sensor bung in my reducer and it worked fine. I wouldn't mess with the cheap stuff though, it won't even work right. I on the other hand, just borrowed my friends (he spent $500 on the kit for it.) It worked really well. __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-20-2003, 06:25 AM	#4
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	What is the reading at full throttle? Does it show a full rich reading? I just want to be able to monitor any lean conditions on my new engine. __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

07-20-2003, 11:23 PM	#6
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Well, at idle and cruise I could get mine at 14.5:1..but whenever I went WOT, it dropped to 11.5:1 I need to tune my carb... __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

07-23-2003, 10:41 AM	#7
rockman20 "The dude abides" Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: North Dakota Posts: 472	Hey I get a short break from work to play! I am running the A/F guage in my Cutlass. Works pretty good. I have mine welded into the collector of the header and it will lose heat at an idle. (It is even a heated sensor. I just don't think it gets hot enough on its own, it is just there to help speed up the heating process) I am running a Edelbrock 750 on a basically stock 350. It is a bit too much carb for the engine. Cruising town and down the interstate I am just a bit on the rich side (leaned out the carb 3 steps on both sides) If I smash the throttle I get a bit of a rich burst and then it will lean out into the stoich area and hold it there until I let off. It really is kind of a useless guage once you get the vehicle dialed in. If you want to tune a vehicle but don't want to spend the money and have a good digital multimeter, just buy the sensor. Weld it into the exhaust and hook your multimeter to it. Somwhere on the net there is a chart that shows you how to read your voltage readings and what it means as to how rich your system is. __________________ RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal

07-20-2003, 05:41 AM	#3
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	I have a AutoMeter A/F guage in my dash and it works good. You need the sensor as close to the engine as you can get it so it will heat up faster.I have mine in the collector and sometimes at idle it will lose its heat. On that note......there are two kinds of sensors..........a two wire (unheated) and a four wire (heated). The unheated sensor is a lot cheaper ($19) and all you need unless that Eldebrock setup uses heated ones=not likely.

07-23-2003, 02:30 PM	#9
rockman20 "The dude abides" Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: North Dakota Posts: 472	Tested the wire with my multimeter and I am getting voltage to it. It is connected to a switched output on my fuse block so as soon as the key is turn to the run position, it is getting power. __________________ RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal

07-23-2003, 02:44 PM	#10
Tom driving is in my blood Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 5,720	I have a autometer a/f guage in my 79, heated. Its welded into the drivers exasut tube behind the manifold and expander [2" outlets into 2.5" tubes] It dosen't loose its heat at idle, and it warms up so quick I don't usually use the heater. I run 14.7 at idle, a tad rich at WOT, and just a tad lean cruising on the freeway. I use a 600cfm carter __________________ -78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.

07-24-2003, 08:04 AM	#12
rockman20 "The dude abides" Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: North Dakota Posts: 472	No problem Mike! It confuses me to as to why it cools off, but it doesn't bother me much. My main concern was the cruising/WOT anyways. Thanks for throwing out suggestions! __________________ RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal



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