70 c10 4x4 manual 3inch body lift

[ooimpalaoo]

im building a 70 c10 the truck came with a 3 inch body lift only half installed. i ran into a problem the truck is a manual and im guessing i dont have all the parts for the lift.. the question is what do i do with the clutch pivot point? any pics would be a very great help.. thanx for all the help.

[cableguy0]

A 3 inch body life is A lot. None of the linkages are going to work or line up. I would personally not run that much body lift. You will need to extend everything that connects between the body and frame. Brake lines,steering column,linkages etc etc etc all have to be checked and possibly extended.

[ooimpalaoo]

this is the last thing to extend on this lift. steering shaft,brake lines,blocks,the only thing left is this clutch pivot point from tha frame to the motor if anyone here has this done could you please post a pic. thanx again

[cableguy0]

Most likely your going to have to cut the linkage rod in half, extend it and weld it back together. I don't know of any kits to make it work. The body lift kits are generally just the lift not the rest of the stuff needed to make it work.

[ooimpalaoo]

cmon just one pic ..please

[LONGHAIR]

3" is pretty much the standard for bodylift kits. On these older trucks the kit is pretty much just the blocks themselves along with new bolts for the cab, along with carriage bolts w/nuts for the bed. The hardware pack also contains an "extension rod". It is a simple 3" long piece of steel rod, about 5/16" or so. It works for both automatics or manuals. You simply saw the clutch rod that goes between the pedal and the bell-crank on the frame and weld the extension in the middle. (Same thing with the shift linkage in automatics).
I always did it by clamping all three pieces to a length of angle iron. This keeps them straight and makes it easier to keep the ends aligned. A couple of tacks and then remove it to fully weld the rod.
The only other thing in most of the kits is a short piece of tubing that is used to extend the fuel filler hose. A razorknife through the hose and a couple of clamps and that is done.
The brakelines, wiring and other connections from the body to the frame will have enough slack.
The only other consideration is the fan shroud. Some of the early trucks just had a glorified hand guard, the later ones get more involved. The "kits" instructions usually tell you to just remove the lower half......not the best idea. It can get you into overheating problems. A little fabrication goes a long way here.

[ooimpalaoo]

they have a piece welded in but the clutch pedal stays on the floor..well not right on the floor but it wont spring all the way back up..any ideas ill post a few pics tomorrow

[ooimpalaoo]

ok so here are a few pics of what im dealing with...did the PO weld a 3" plate in the wrong spot? look at the angle on the pivot point from motor to frame..what is going on here.the clutch pedel wont come back up. olmost but no..plaese help

[LONGHAIR]

Yeah, he extended the wrong part. He has increased the leverage of the bellcrank by extending it. This makes the pedal travel and clutch fork ratio way out of wack.
The rod that goes between the clutch pedal and the bellcrank is what you need to extend.

[ooimpalaoo]

thanx now can you tell me what part that is lol sorry it sounds to me that your talking about the lowest rod? the one going to the fork/?

[ooimpalaoo]

or is it the first one that comes from the fire wall? sorry never done this. and thanx. this site has helped me out lots from my bagged lowrider to my 4x4. thank you all

[68panelman]

Yes, the rod coming through the firewall. I had a 72 k-20 with a 3" body lift. That was the first thing to go when I bought that truck.

[ooimpalaoo]

thanx alot.

[68panelman]

Was not trying to bash your truck, But I found that body lifts are nothing but a headache, and most often the installer end up hacking the crap out of everything right down to the extending of the taillight/engine/cab harness's.