Clock installation question

[Steve Cole]

Well, 3 questions.
1. What is the best way to remove the markings on the lens in the empty location? Polishing compound?
2. Has anyone cut their own tins so the clock will fit? What did you use? I know there is someone on the board that does a really nice job with this but I can't remember who it is.
3. How does the clock attach to the instrument panel ?

Thanks for any tips or advice!

[SS Tim]

Member TBONE1964 is offering them as I understand it now. Might be the best place to start.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=604141

[FirstOwner69]

Here's the link to the tin. 70shortfleet (Les). http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=497031 I bought one he punched for a tach as well as clock.

I installed my own using an 80s truck clock. Any 73-87 clock will work, but the 80s were quartz. I mounted mine to the gauge tin/plate where the vacuum gauge would have been mounted. That requires cutting a hole in the tin/plate so the back of the clock can protrude through. I used short pieces of copper ice maker tubing as standards to mount the clock on. I used a pocket knife with very little pressure to chip the markings off the lens. If it scratches, it you can then use 1000 grit sandpaper then polish. I was lucky and only needed to polish. Of course, you'll also need a hole for the clock stem and probably paint the hands. I only have pics of the finished product. 70shortfleet will also do all this for you.

[71 super]

Use plastix plastic polish to remove the markings, to install the adjustment knob, mark the location on the lens and then using a heated nail press the hole through the lens, the backing plate is basically up to you and how you want to do it.

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Here's the link to the tin. 70shortfleet (Les). http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=497031 I bought one he punched for a tach as well as clock.

I installed my own using an 80s truck clock. Any 73-87 clock will work, but the 80s were quartz. I mounted mine to the gauge tin/plate where the vacuum gauge would have been mounted. That requires cutting a hole in the tin/plate so the back of the clock can protrude through. I used short pieces of copper ice maker tubing as standards to mount the clock on. I used a pocket knife with very little pressure to chip the markings off the lens. If it scratches, it you can then use 1000 grit sandpaper then polish. I was lucky and only needed to polish. Of course, you'll also need a hole for the clock stem and probably paint the hands. I only have pics of the finished product. 70shortfleet will also do all this for you.

Hey FirstOwner,

you lost me with the ice maker tubing, can you explain how the clock is mounted? Also, is there a gap between the clock face and the inner tin? is that how it gets illuminated? Thanks for any info from anyone!

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Hey FirstOwner,

you lost me with the ice maker tubing, can you explain how the clock is mounted? Also, is there a gap between the clock face and the inner tin? is that how it gets illuminated? Thanks for any info from anyone!

Ice makers in residential refrigerators receive their water through either plastic or copper tubing available at any hardware or home improvement store. I had some copper lying around so that's what I used. Any other similar diameter rigid tubing would also work. Plastic ice maker tubing would not be rigid enough. Attach the clock to the metal plate that the oil pressure gauge is mounted to in the vacuum gauge position using a couple short pieces of the tubing and machine screws of the proper length and diameter placed in the factory mounting holes in the clock. "Proper length" means a length that allows the clock to be the same distance from the front tin as the other small gauges so the dash lights will illuminate the clock face. The quartz clock I used had one square corner which I cut off to allow more uniform illumination. Below is a picture of a clock copied from Craigslist so you can see the square corner. I only have a picture of my finished dash, so I can't post a pic of the mounting. If you can wait until late April I can post one. I drilled the hole for the adjusting stem and used the rubber grommet from the donor truck dash.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Ice makers in residential refrigerators receive their water through either plastic or copper tubing available at any hardware or home improvement store. I had some copper lying around so that's what I used. Any other similar diameter rigid tubing would also work. Plastic ice maker tubing would not be rigid enough. Attach the clock to the metal plate that the oil pressure gauge is mounted to in the vacuum gauge position using a couple short pieces of the tubing and machine screws of the proper length and diameter placed in the factory mounting holes in the clock. "Proper length" means a length that allows the clock to be the same distance from the front tin as the other small gauges so the dash lights will illuminate the clock face. The quartz clock I used had one square corner which I cut off to allow more uniform illumination. Below is a picture of a clock copied from Craigslist so you can see the square corner. I only have a picture of my finished dash, so I can't post a pic of the mounting. If you can wait until late April I can post one. I drilled the hole for the adjusting stem and used the rubber grommet from the donor truck dash.

Further info: In order to allow the clock to be moved far enough to align the clock face with the front of the oil gauge, a hole large enough for the back of the clock to protrude must be cut with a hole saw as I noted in my original post (#3). I ran a bead of silicone caulk around the back of the clock to seal the minor gap. For wiring I used the original from the donor truck.

[Steve Cole]

OK, now I understand. The copper tubing acts as standoffs or spacers to keep the clock spaced the right distance from the tin when installed. Thanks for your help!

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

OK, now I understand. The copper tubing acts as standoffs or spacers to keep the clock spaced the right distance from the tin when installed. Thanks for your help!

Another comment on the installation.
In the thread link below you can see the back of the cluster Andy4639 did in post 6. The second picture is the back with the clock installed. It appears he may have mounted his clock similar to the way I described. The picture reminded me that one of the screw holes falls in the rear tin outside the gauge mounting plate [look for the 2 small nuts at about 7:30 (on the plate) and 1:30(on the tin)]. So, you'll have to cut the hole in the plate for the clock, mount the plate to the rear tin, drill the holes at 7:30 and 1:30, and insert the screws. Then assemble the cluster as you would normally do.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=614787