American auto wire questions

[Sean1985]

I was curious if anybody has used the restomod harness for their 67-68 trucks. I want to do some custom routing of the harness and this sounds like the best way.

[Ridgeclimber]

I used it on my 1968 c10 short box stepside. Worked good. The only problem I had was the main ignition power wire coming through the firewall connection was not seated properly in the plug and was making a poor coonection intermitantly. Once I found that its been good. Its nice to have the extra circuits for power window, seats etc.

[67ChevyRedneck]

It's in the box sitting in my garage

What exactly is it that you want to know?

If you haven't purchased it yet, look up the PN, then type it into ebay. That's where I found the best price, no tax, no shipping, just make sure you get it from a reputable seller. One had a slightly lower price but not great feed back, so I went with a better seller.

[Sean1985]

My questions were the ease of install and the connectors. Did everything line up was there wires that were too short. I will have an aftermarket dash as well so this is another reason I didn't want to do a stock harness as well as hiding the wires from the firewall.

[bbcmudtruck]

I have one and it works great. All of the wires are long so you can trim to fit. Great kit and I would buy another one.

[truckdude239]

i am doing mine with it great kit

[Sean1985]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Where did you guys route your wires through the firewall? Or did you run through the frame?

[bbcmudtruck]

The kit has a bulk head just like the oem.

[TexC-10]

You have to cut out a bigger hole in the firewall. Otherwise I see no problems with the install. If you are worried about it, get the oem kit from early classic. It is ready to install with the connections already made. It is just a little more but maybe worth your time.

[burnin oil]

Could always just make one. I used parts from an old botched up harness and redid it. Bought the terminal ends from a vendor, think it was early classic, and reused the factory connectors. Not that hard and you can modify or add wires to your hearts content.

[Sean1985]

I'm not worried about the making the connections I'm more concerned about hiding the wires and taking my own paths. I like having the added features for down the road. Just wanted to make sure it's a reputable harness and not on of those willy nilly harnesses. Thanks all.

[burnin oil]

Its not all that bad to hide them. When I did mine I pulled all the crap out for the voltage regulator and went to a newer style alt. I then did away with all the goofy junction block stuff and ran all the power wires to the starter, just like the newer style trucks. I also added the HEI wire and a tach wire at this time. The only thing I didn't add that I should have was a oil pressure sensor wire. You can add all the circuits for future use and then tape them over to hide them. The other thing I did was totally isolate the harnesses so that the headlights and engine harness where seperate. Anything that had to cross went into a quick connector then jumped over to the correct plug. I did the same under the dash. I even moved the headlight switch over by the wiper so I could put the manual choke in. Easy as can be. All that is needed is to figure out where extra things should go. A quick tip is not to actually run wires for unused accesories but insted put the pigtail in with a connector. Later on you just add that section. After all this is what the factory did. If you use the factory harness as a reference it is no problem to figure out what goes where and the correct exit places for added parts. You can even use the factory fuse panel and add a seperate fuse panel for extras like power seats etc. Wire is pricey but your own custom harness is still cheaper and the quality will always be perfect.

[Sean1985]

Yea that was my plan. Get rid of regulator and do the hei correctly. Also I'm going to relocate gas tank to the rear. I'm not sure if I'll be able to use the stock harness as a reference. Imagine the worst wire job and then multiply it by 100. I counted like 5 splices in about 3ft of wires with like 3 different colors. And the splices were just tied together and duct taped. Haha and the guy before me said he drove it everyday until the head gasket went. Scary.

[burnin oil]

You can still use it as a template. Mine was a fire truck. All kinds of crap added and spliced in. My horn wire went down and back and jumped to something that I have no idea what it was. They even spliced something into the starter start lead! The radio delete plate was a 747 cockpit of switches.

Installing the tank under the bed is pretty easy. I replaced the lead in the harness and ran it down the frame along with the tail lights. Still hooks inside the truck like factory. With some rework of the later crossmembers a factory gas tank from a 73+ blazer will fit. I really like the 31 gallon tank with my terrible milage. Also put in a trailer hitch from the tank donor while I was under there.

[Sean1985]

Yea I mean. I can use what's left. Beside the extension cords running the starter. Haha. Thanks for the help and confidence. I'm going to order that kit pretty soon.

[burnin oil]

Extension cord. That is an odd one. But on the flip side I garuntee it is a heavy gauge wire than original.