It’s cold outside. Carburetor choke on stock engines.

[ljackson]

I have a 64. I am running the rebuilt original 283 and rebuilt original Rochester 2G. It is my son’s DD. The 2G has the cable operated choke. I am thinking about changing carbs to a 2GC or 2GV to get an electric or vacuum pull off. Can these chokes be set up to reliably allow you to start the truck and walk away and have the engine warm up? I live where the winter low temps usually range from 0 to 30 degrees. Should I go with the electric thermostatic coil type or the type mounted to the intake? Would it be worth the effort to change?

Thanks for your help.

[jmack91z28]

You having any problems out of the cable choke, or are you just wanting something a little less manual?

I've had all types, me personally I'd rather have manual choke. Electric is real nice though, when calibrated correctly. I've helped fix many a poorly adjusted electric chokes.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by jmack91z28

You having any problems out of the cable choke, or are you just wanting something a little less manual?

The cable is new and the choke works fine. Less manual. You know how you have to stay with the truck and make adjustments as it warms. If a properly set up electric will allow my son to spend that 10 minutes getting ready to leave, he would like it. He is 18 and he's been driving the truck since Sept. 2013.

Originally Posted by jmack91z28

I've had all types, me personally I'd rather have manual choke. Electric is real nice though, when calibrated correctly. I've helped fix many a poorly adjusted electric chokes.

Thanks for the input. I have a 1973 2GV core that a friend gave me a few days ago. After some research, I don't think it will bolt direct to the manifold. The 2G and 2GC have the 1 1/4" bore. The 2GV has the 1 1/5" bore. I think the base is bigger. It is supposed to get above freezing today so maybe I can look at the truck.

I think the carb in the photo is direct bolt on?

[TJ's Chevy]

I have a manual choke on my '66 edelbrock carb, and what I did was adjust the choke idle screw to make the idle higher. All I do know is pull the choke a little, and it raises the idle as well and I can walk away while my truck is idling. Works fine for me.

[63burban]

My 65 has a 230 with manual choke, they were set up to pull all the way out on start up and slowly push in as it warms up. My truck will high idle with the choke slightly out, only takes a minute or two for it to get to the slightly out position before you can walk away. It' all in the adjustments.

[Rich 5150 69]

If your looking to make more driver friendly, I`d go with the electric choke as the therostatic will require semi yearly maintenance to keep it operarting friendly, the electric is just with the initial setup. Nothing wrong with the manual choke, its all up to you...!

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

If your looking to make more driver friendly, I`d go with the electric choke as the therostatic will require semi yearly maintenance to keep it operarting friendly, the electric is just with the initial setup. Nothing wrong with the manual choke, its all up to you...!

Thanks for the input. I may see if I can find the right electric choke carb. I believe if I find a good 2GC it will be plug and play except for adjustments. I do enjoy trying to figure this old truck out. I like teaching my son about how it was in the "good old days". Just not so much when it is 5 or 10 degrees. Someday I'm gonna live where It doesn't get so cold.

Originally Posted by 63burban

My 65 has a 230 with manual choke, they were set up to pull all the way out on start up and slowly push in as it warms up. My truck will high idle with the choke slightly out, only takes a minute or two for it to get to the slightly out position before you can walk away. It' all in the adjustments.

Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

I have a manual choke on my '66 edelbrock carb, and what I did was adjust the choke idle screw to make the idle higher. All I do know is pull the choke a little, and it raises the idle as well and I can walk away while my truck is idling. Works fine for me.

Thanks for the input.

[geezer#99]

Before you go searching for another carb I've got a question.
Is your factory heat riser working on your exhaust?

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Before you go searching for another carb I've got a question.
Is your factory heat riser working on your exhaust?

That's a good question. I didn't think about that. I will check.
Thanks geezer.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Before you go searching for another carb I've got a question.
Is your factory heat riser working on your exhaust?

I did a quick check yesterday. I plan to look closer today. Is the counterweight supposed to move down as the truck warms in the cold and runs in cold or warm weather? Mine is sitting parallel to the ground and would need to move up to open. I think I put it back together wrong after cleaning it up when we rebuilt the engine and reinstalled? if it is wrong is it closed all the time unless under a hard load?

[Rich 5150 69]

When the arm is level with the flange its closed.

[geezer#99]

I'm not sure on the positioning.
Does it have the bi-metal spring on it too?
Likely need to pull it apart to see. If it is closed all the time then when you tap the throttle you might hear it rattle. If the intake gets warm real quick when first started then you'll know if it's closed or not.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

When the arm is level with the flange its closed.

So... in the open position, the arm moves toward the ground?

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I'm not sure on the positioning.
Does it have the bi-metal spring on it too?
Likely need to pull it apart to see. If it is closed all the time then when you tap the throttle you might hear it rattle. If the intake gets warm real quick when first started then you'll know if it's closed or not.

Thanks geezer, it does have the spring. I'm not sure how much tension it should have on it? I'll check "If the intake gets warm real quick". I'm going to see if any parts store (open on Sunday) has one to compare to.

[Rich 5150 69]

The valve should be placed just like that one shown with the counter weight to the outside, it should move freely down, they were placed in this position so if the spring ever broke they would stay open as opposed to staying closed.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by ljackson

Thanks geezer, it does have the spring. I'm not sure how much tension it should have on it? I'll check "If the intake gets warm real quick". I'm going to see if any parts store (open on Sunday) has one to compare to.

If it's indeed closed then you'll have heat to the intake from the crossover. (As long as the crossover isn't plugged).
The reason I mentioned the heat riser was that if it's not working and diverting exhaust heat under the intake then no matter what style of choke is on your carb it will still be a pain to set it right for a trouble free warm up.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If it's indeed closed then you'll have heat to the intake from the crossover. (As long as the crossover isn't plugged).
The reason I mentioned the heat riser was that if it's not working and diverting exhaust heat under the intake then no matter what style of choke is on your carb it will still be a pain to set it right for a trouble free warm up.

Thanks, I'm gonna take a look and see what I have.

Do you or anyone reading this know who much tension should be on the thermo spring?

[Rich 5150 69]

When the truck is cold, it should feel like the weight of a shot glass, not sure how else to decribe it....

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

When the truck is cold, it should feel like the weight of a shot glass, not sure how else to decribe it....

Thanks Rich, I'll lift a few before I start. haha

[grs]

Originally Posted by ljackson

So... in the open position, the arm moves toward the ground?

Do I need a manifold heat riser valve if I have duel exhaust with no cross over pipe?

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by grs

Do I need a manifold heat riser valve if I have duel exhaust with no cross over pipe?

If you are still running the heated intake ( stock or aftermarket ) yes if your not running an electric or manual choke.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by ljackson

Thanks, I'm gonna take a look and see what I have.

Do you or anyone reading this know who much tension should be on the thermo spring?

Well, I found that the stop pin was bent so the counterweight unwound, came up and around and was resting on the side of the engine block. This was in an always open position. I was able to bend the pin back into place. I warmed the spring with propane torch and it looks like it will work fine. As far as the spring tension, there really isn't more than one setting. I also found a loose spark plug while I was checking it over. So now I will run it a few days to see how it does before do anything else.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by ljackson

So... in the open position, the arm moves toward the ground?

Is the thermostatic spring installed backwards? It appears that when this thermostatic coil cools down, the coil tries to become smaller(contract), turn clockwise, & lower the weighted end and open the flap. And when it is heated, the coil will try to unwind(expand), turn counter clockwise, and the way it's wound would make the flap close tighter--the opposite of what is needed.

Heat-logic--unless my reasoning is backwards--says the thermostatic spring needs to be reversed [on the split in the shaft]. Please point out my error if I'm reasoning incorrectly.
Sam

[grs]

I guess I don't need the heat riser on my engine because I don't have a stock intake. My intake is a Holly. I don't think the exhaust gas will re route thru the Holly. See attachment. I don't know how to make the attachment bigger. Sorry

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Is the thermostatic spring installed backwards? It appears that when this thermostatic coil cools down, the coil tries to become smaller(contract), turn clockwise, & lower the weighted end and open the flap. And when it is heated, the coil will try to unwind(expand), turn counter clockwise, and the way it's wound would make the flap close tighter--the opposite of what is needed.

Heat-logic--unless my reasoning is backwards--says the thermostatic spring needs to be reversed [on the split in the shaft]. Please point out my error if I'm reasoning incorrectly.
Sam

The picture in post #22 is what my riser looks like now. The spring is on correctly. If you laid that riser down (the top of the photo away from you) it would be in the same position as it is on the truck. When the spring expands it lets the weight down into the open position and hits another stop on the short end of the weight.

In this photo you can see the other stop. The riser is upside down.

My son drove the truck today. The high temp was around 30 degrees. I hope to talk to him later to see how it did. I'll report back.