Drive shaft

[Vova]

Can someone tell me the driveshaft length of a shortbed 350/350 truck. Just the front piece of a two piece shaft.
Thanks

[brad_man_72]

Sure. What length th350? Which of the 3 engine stands are you using? In the front or rear mount location? Have they been swapped from side to side?

The best and easiest way to get this measurement is to measure your truck. End of tailshaft to center of carrier bearing mount. Then a center of CB mount to center of rear joint measurement and any driveline shop should be able to build and ballance a shaft that fits your truck.

[Vova]

I'm looking for a used one and wanted to make sure it was the right size without getting under my truck.

If a SWB frame is 12" shorter than a LWB frame would it make senses that the front part of the shaft would be 12" shorter?

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by Vova

I'm looking for a used one and wanted to make sure it was the right size without getting under my truck.

If a SWB frame is 12" shorter than a LWB frame would it make senses that the front part of the shaft would be 12" shorter?

If all of those other factors are exactly the same then yes the front shaft will be the difference in wheelbase shorter.

Why bother with used? Its going to need at least ujoints, a carrier bearing and most definetly ballanced as an assembly. Unless you're not planning on driving it down the road.

If you do find a decent used shaft that is too long, having it shortened is cheaper than having it lenghened.

[Vova]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

If all of those other factors are exactly the same then yes the front shaft will be the difference in wheelbase shorter.

Why bother with used? Its going to need at least ujoints, a carrier bearing and most definetly ballanced as an assembly. Unless you're not planning on driving it down the road.

If you do find a decent used shaft that is too long, having it shortened is cheaper than having it lenghened.

I got quotes $150 to shorten my LWB front shaft. I can get a used shaft for about $40 and just replace the ujoints and carrier barring and I'm on the road.
I already have the CCP slip yoke rear shaft just need the front one.

[brad_man_72]

You're not on the road for long without ballancing it.
The carrier mount will break assuming you have this, the most common 67-72 style carrier bearing, without a slipyoke. This setup is why people will spend $100 on a billet carrier bearing to fix the symptom.
If you have the slip yoke style shaft it will vibrate and beat the rubber out of the carrier bearing, but it won't break, possibly destroying both front and rear shafts along with anything too close to the driveshaft.

Driveline vibrations kill tailhousings and tranny yokes too.

If you value your time at all its cheaper to do it right the first time.

If you do change your own ujoints please use spicer or neapco joints instead of Precision or house brand.

[Vova]

Good advice. I plan to get the whole setup balanced with new carrier bearing and new rear slip yoke shaft. I should be goof with this setup...

[Vova]

Happened to know the Spicer part number for these joints?

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by Vova

Happened to know the Spacer part number for these joints?

I forgot the first 2 numbers (same for a lot of spicer joints) but they made the last 4 easy 1310, that's the series # for these joints. Apparently a lot of people are still selling them as 5-153x. The same part old part number.

Why do you want a slip yoke rear shaft? If you use the factory style carrier bearing with control arms you don't need a slip, it won't hurt anything except your wallet. If you use the ccp biller carrier bearing you will need the slip in the rear shaft.
Tighten the carrier bearing bolts at ride height.

[Vova]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I forgot the first 2 numbers (same for a lot of spicer joints) but they made the last 4 easy 1310, that's the series # for these joints. Apparently a lot of people are still selling them as 5-153x. The same part old part number.

Why do you want a slip yoke rear shaft? If you use the factory style carrier bearing with control arms you don't need a slip, it won't hurt anything except your wallet. If you use the ccp biller carrier bearing you will need the slip in the rear shaft.
Tighten the carrier bearing bolts at ride height.

Because my truck is on bags and I got the CCP shaft for a good deal. I'm going with a stock carrier baring and not the billet. Can see paying $100.

[Vova]

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...FWQ6Qgod60gAow

[brad_man_72]

This is the better one. Non greaseable, plastic thrust washers (no shimming), 3 seals. http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...PI-5-785X.html

5-785x was the old part number for the non greasable oops.

[Vova]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

This is the better one. Non greaseable, plastic thrust washers (no shimming), 3 seals. http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...PI-5-785X.html

5-785x was the old part number for the non greasable oops.

Good to know. Any suggestions for the carrier bearing?

[rocks409]

New to the truck world but I have experience with the 58-64 chevy passenger car drive shafts. I will have to replace the carrier in the '70 C20 I just bought but it will be some time before I get to it. The pass car shafts must be disassembled and assembled carefully or the shaft can be assembled, out of time. When having the front section shortened for application of longer trans, it is important to mark the shaft with a straight line of some sort so the shaft can be welded so the yoke is in its original position. A truck shaft may not be of that design so what I say may be completely irrelevant. Maybe Brad can comment. I will try to post a picture to explain what I am trying to say.

[rocks409]

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps60cf2286.jpg

[rocks409]

sorry, I am almost computer illiterate and haven't yet learned how to post pictures.

[brad_man_72]

Rocks is correct the truck shafts are very simmilar to the earlier car shafts. I think trucks are in time and cars are crosstimed on the front shaft or the other way around, I've seen too many of both without the vehicle.


No recomendation on the factory style carrier bearing, I don't think there's too many different people making them. Be sure to weld the ends like I pictured above for a little extra insurance. Sometimes id even weld a couple of supports on the sides also.

Here is a shaft that is in time, and how it should be marked, you can choose a color besides pink if you prefer.