Por 15 opinions

[bluebulletk10]

Hey everyone I'm getting ready to paint my frame it's being sandblasted and I was told that por 15 will work god I've heard some real horror stories about this stuff so what have you guys used? And how well has it worked.

[old Rusty C10]

im going to move this for you to the body section but ive used it with good results.. its more for a good job on the work trucks rustoleum works just fine

[walkerb]

Por15. Works great

[Indian113]

I'm shooting my frame on my Model A with SS Black w/hardner

[PAPABEAR]

I have used por-15 with good results on a vw I had. Am planning on having my blazer frame blasted and coating it myself. I found this stuff and sounds promising, I have been reading reviews on other forums and it seems to get high marks on the end results. And it's priced good for anybody on a budget.

www.masterseriescoatings.com

[leddzepp]

I've used POR with great results. Others have had bad experiences. Eastwood seems to get high ratings from a lot of people.

[VWSP2]

I actually prefer MasterSeries to Por products.

[bluebulletk10]

The master series can be brushed on? I need something that can be brushed because of where I am doing everything I have no cases to a proper place to spray

[PAPABEAR]

Yes it says it can be brushed and rolled on and it levels out, I believe it's two coats silver and one black. They have a chassis kit it's like 69 bucks.

[pwdcougar]

POR 15 needs oil/grease free metal with rust on it other wise it wont work at all. I painted the wheel wells of my 69 Cougar convertible with POR 15 10 years ago and it still looks like it was put on yesterday. On a sandblasted frame I would leave it out in the rain for a few weeks before applying it. It wont stick to rust free metal.

Paul

[JointTech]

i brushed it on (foam pad) my suspension and brake parts. Leveled really well. Looks nice and shiny. I dont know how well it holds up since the truck doesnt get driven. its nasty as hell though. need full suit and gloves. and if you close the lid without plastic it will be stuck on forever.

[chipflyer]

On a sandblasted frame I would leave it out in the rain for a few weeks before applying it. It wont stick to rust free metal.

That is correct, if you're going through the trouble and cost of blasting a frame spray it with a couple of coats of SPI epoxy and forget about it ever rusting. MUCH better coating than POR 15 on clean bare metal.

Jeff

[MP&C]

I have used POR in the past on under hood components that were covered in surface rust, and a slip of a screwdriver years later never marred the finish. It was tough as nails. Another application a few years ago by the owner of a car in the shop covered up some bare metal, and some of the POR had been painted over some still existing but prepped factory paint still left on the cowl. Weeks later, the POR was peeling off in sheets where it delaminated from the factory finish. Since then I have discontinued the use of POR except in cases where proper prep is not feasible due to location, inside of rockers, doors, etc. Typically these areas aren't covered by topcoats, so I shouldn't have to worry about rework from delamination.

I think POR, as in many products, do have a place in restorations. They should not be used where they come into contact with other paint finishes, as they are not designed as a substrate to other paints as a good epoxy is. They should be used where proper abrading is not feasible due to access limitations, but the metal is still structurally sound. Where someone does have access to properly abrade and repair the sheetmetal, I would always side with epoxy, as you will have less delamination issues with something DESIGNED for use with other products, not an afterthought of having to use some sort of prep or adhesion promoter. Personally, I think the product is overused as many (all) of us are looking for that next best thing since sliced bread that won't make us go through all the hard work of media blasting, sanding, and in extreme cases of misuse, repairing rotted sheet metal that sorely needs replacing. In the last example, call it laziness, call it half ass, call it lack of welding capability. Regardless of the excuse, part of the bad name that POR gets is from hack jobs that should have been replacing rotted sheet metal. Some enthusiasts, due to the overwhelming fanfare of POR type products, may abuse this product unknowingly based on the glowing reviews of similar unknowers. Anyone who dares berate such products is normally described as something akin to blasphemous, but I'm here to say products like this have brought on their own bad name as they promote taking shortcuts and misuse by owners/enthusiasts who probably should be taking their rusty hulk to someone who knows what they are doing. (hey...you asked for opinions! )

Now in your case, you've done the hard work in cleaning and media blasting your frame. As stated above, a good application of some SPI epoxy, which comes in black and does have UV inhibitors, would be the ideal covering as you have already done the hard work. If you were to want to use POR, for best adhesion results, I would agree that a week or so of exposure to accumulate surface rust would be advisable. But why undo all your hard work? Go with the epoxy...

[bluebulletk10]

Can epoxy be brushed on? I was looking at master series products and they have a chassis paint that is meant to be brushed on, have any of you used this? And if so what are your opinions of it? Thanks everyone

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

POR 15 needs oil/grease free metal with rust on it other wise it wont work at all. I painted the wheel wells of my 69 Cougar convertible with POR 15 10 years ago and it still looks like it was put on yesterday. On a sandblasted frame I would leave it out in the rain for a few weeks before applying it. It wont stick to rust free metal.

Paul

Actually, the best surface to apply POR 15 is clean blasted metal. I have used it on my blasted frame and i can tell you this stuff is bullet proof. If you need to remove some of the POR 15 for grounds you literally need to grind it off. I used a foam brush on my frame and I like it over spraying other products because it will "creep" into areas you wouldn't be able to get to by spraying (like underneath brackets that are riveted on).

[notsolo]

I have used Master series silver over sandblasted metal, brush or spray, with Excellent results..... You will definitely need a respirator for organic compounds. ( Solvents ) Wait a few days and top cost with almost anything. I use PPG Base Coat, I think tractor store paint, or Hamerite would also work well.

[woodfork1]

Por 15 works great. However Prep is the key.

[bluebulletk10]

So for the master series what are any tips you might have? Or do you guys think I should use the por on my frame? The thing that it attractive to me about the master series is that it isn't as sensitive to errors durring preparation. Ring said again I would really like to have something brushed on, so any tips on this would help too

[imjeff]

POR-15 is awesome! I buy it in the small cans unless I have a big job. It needs a topcoat of chassis black if it will be in UV.

[cadillac_al]

I brushed Mastercoat on my frame last year so no long term durability results yet. It is supposed to last a long time. They have great customer service! SPI epoxy would have been my 2nd choice; I use that on everything else. I haven't had good luck with por 15.