Starting my new build

[T-P Auto]

I have just gotten alot of parts together to start on my ratrod build.
I have a S-10 frame
1953 chevy cab,
1953 long 3/4 ton bed,
305 V8
200R4 trans.

[mechanixman]

It looks like you have some really nice parts there, and a great start!
So what are your plans with the truck? Make your own mounts? EZ chassis kit?

[T-P Auto]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to make it an open front ratrod,dont have fenders or hood.
Have set in motor n trans mock up.
Working on the trans mounts at this time.
Still need to make some clearence for the pass side exhaust(hits the upper control arm mount)
Had to find n use exhaust from a vortex V8 engine.
Using the sept belt system from the vortex motor.
Once I get the engine n trans mounted then I start the cab placement.
Thats is where it sets for how.

tim

[DransportGarage]

Welcome to the forum! I guess you guys from the Southwest can get by without little details like hoods and fenders!! First I'd get arrested and then I'd get rusty...

Good Luck and Have Fun,

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ugh, he said that word - "rat"

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ugh, he said that word - "rat"

Sad to see that, the world doesn't need any more "hey look how junky I made it look" trucks.

[Daze57]

to each his own fellas !

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Sad to see that, the world doesn't need any more "hey look how junky I made it look" trucks.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ugh, he said that word - "rat"

Lets try to keep the posts positive. We don't want this new member to get turned off to this great forum.

It's really quite simple. If you don't like or care for the project do'nt post and keep your comments to yourself.

Welcome T-P Auto
Marc

[_Ogre]

agreed. keep the derogatory comments to yourselves.
we all have a style were after, some here hate my build, but i never hear of it.

if we were all purists this would be a very boring site in my opinion.
don't chase the new person off, they might be full of good ideas.

that i can steal

[_Ogre]

and welcome t-p auto

[DransportGarage]

Hey T-P, from the pics that looks like a pretty solid truck. Your approach is definitely the fastest and cheapest way to get it on the road, and you won't feel bad about ripping into it and tuning it in if the truck has "issues". In the future you can always build it again (as long as you don't get carried away with the hammer and welder).

As you probably already know, there's a TON of info on use of S-10 frame fronts, entire frames, motor placement and height, cab placement and mounting, mods to the stock stuff, etc.

[T-P Auto]

Hello Again:

To Dransport,orge,Daze n young rodder.
Thank You all for the great words.
I'm working with what I have to work with.
Plan to keep you all up to date as this build continues.
Did not have front end to go with the cab so just working it to be mine.

To Mr48chevy n Dan.

I'm on SS so have a very tight cost to work with.
I just ask that you keep n open mind to see just how this works out.

HOW!

I have read alot about the S-10 swap on all site that I can find. I have a very good plan for what I want to do. It is going to be a long build to do it the way I really want it to come out.

I have plans for 10" rear wheel(235x60x14) tucked under the rear wheel fenders.205x70x14 for the front,both sets will be cooper corba tires on old style 5 spoke wheels.
The inside will have bucket seats,power windows,power door locks. Thinking about A/C also.
Also thinking about filler on the fender mounting area.

Just asking that you give me time to show my build as I go with this.

Thank You;
Tim

[Highsider]

You have my interest, T-P.
Keep us posted and we really like pictures!

Welcome to a really cool board!

[FarmerSid]

Opinions are like...........you get the drift. Build what YOU want. I'm hearing the same thing from family. "Your ruining the truck!!!" I want my 51 chev to be stock appearing mostly on the outside but with a vette drive train. I'm sick and tired of always trying to please others and still get flack. My project is going to be done the way I want it and not how everyone else thinks how I should do it.

Oh ya, send those fenders you are not using my way. Mine have a few windows in them! LOL!

[T-P Auto]

hello again;

well here is some more pics n info on my build.
have set motor n trans in for mock up,
left side exhaust hits the upper control arm,
showing the two set of wheels,
stock n 10' deep both 14' wheels,
set trans to mock up a cross member,
going to use both motor mounts from olds 4x4,
steel on frame n rubber on motor,
still need to mock up mounts to clear the exhaust,
thinking about useing 1/4' flat stock either under the eng mount or under the
steel frame mount.
will have to make the spacers.

Tim

[T-P Auto]

Farmer Sid;

I did not get any front clip with my cab.

Tim

[Atommik]

For the exhaust clearance issues, I finally had to break down and buy S10 v8 swap headers. They are from Patriot and I got them thru JEGS (I think). Just came painted, not chrome or porcelain, about $150. They fit just right and also have clearance to run the steering shaft thru the header tubes, (another problem you will encounter with the S10 swap.)

Good luck with your build and have fun!!

[T-P Auto]

Atommik:

I have the right side(driver) exhaust on with the 350V8 Vortex exhaust,clears the steering fine.
I just need a little more clearence on the pass side.
I'm thinking a 1/4' plate under either the steel frame mount or under the rubber engine mount will give me the hight n clearence that I need.
I will keep you all posted on this site.
I dont have the front end,so I'm going with the lower look.
I'm going to set the cab just 1' above the frame on new body mounts.
I'm hoping that I will not have to cut out very much of the cab to clear the trans tunnel.
This is all a work in the making. most is try then rethink n try again.
I have been on the engine trans mock up for the past week. I know I could do it like alot of other on here have n find fenders hood n set everything in n raise the cab with running boards(just not what I'm after)
I wqnt to set it as low as I can on stock parts,plus it will then be one of a kind.
I also thought about chopping the top to make it look meaner,just did not think I would like the look after.
Thank again for the help from all of you who are checking out my post.

Tim

[T-P Auto]

hello;

Today I'm going to try to get the trans mounts made n installed.
will have to wait till monday to get the 1/4" steel for the motor mount spacers.
once I get the motor n trans set then I'm going to try to set the cab on n start cutting the clearence for the trans n tunnel, and working on the cab mounting stands.(all takes time)
I have more time then money ! ! ! Ha Ha

Tim

[mr48chev]

Maybe I over reacted on the rat rod thing but I see too many loca"rat rods" that seem to have a lot of junk scabbed on them for effect including railroad spikes welded to the front axle that sticks out 30 inches in front of the grill and other non automotive scraps tacked on for effect to get the mouthbreathing WWF t shirt wearing brigade excited.

Building a low buck truck with the bits and pieces you have scrounged up and putting it together in a clean and presentable manner is not quite the same thing even if you leave the "patina" .

I'd still rethink the front sheet metal thing and seriously reconsider finding some front fenders a hood and grill for it. Heck, if you were here locally I'd dig the green ton an a half fenders and hood and grill out from behind the shed and you could use them for free. You will end up cutting off the bottoms of the fenderss at the style line to make them come out even with the bottoms of the doors that will end up being the rockers on that truck anyhow.

The main reason for running fenders is that with the S-10 frame you will have big ugly A arms out in the wind for everyone to see along with the even uglier S-10 frame horns and steering box right out there in front. The guys who usually run an AD cab minus fenders run an I beam or tube axle with the stock frame or put the truck on a custom tube frame with a Ford Crossleaf axle and radius rods or four bar for a clean look.
I've shown this photo before. It's a shot of my buddy's 48 that was built from a 3/4 ton using the 3/4 ton bed cut off at the second post to make a really short bed. It sits on a 64 Chevelle chassis that he modified somewhat. Big block engine in the photo. Somewhere in the archives I have photos of it and photos of anther friend's truck that I helped build in Texas that are set up [pretty much the same. Both were very low buck builds with the truck in this photo originally having a Pontiac OHC six that he traded for when he built the truck next door to me in the early 80's

[T-P Auto]

Hello again;

Mr48chev,
thank you for the nice words.
I'm still working on the eng n trans set up.
I have not gotten a front rad shell or front grill yet, so not sure just how much of the front horns will be removed.
Just one thing at a time,easy going n thinking thing out several different ways.
I want to build something different but also want it too look good.

OK !!
Here is the next problem to have figured out.
The engine clearence on the right exhaust manifold, got it fixed.
made a spacer to put under the rubber motor mount(see pic) did both sides n got the clearence I need on the exhaust manifolds(see pic)
Worked on the trans cross member today,got it mocked up n found what else I need to fab.(see pic)

till next time;

Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello Again:

Well got to work on the project again today( Nice n warm )>

Got the trans cross member built n set in the frame.( NO pic) just got carryed away once the eng n trans could set in frame.
Remover the end n trans n set the cab on the frame(see pic) > WOW HOO
Had to cut the firewall a couple of times to get the end n trans set back in the fram with the cab set on the frame.
Also got the bent rear frame removed n added the rear cross member from the Old 4x4 to use the gas tank from the 4x4.
The bed is 14" tall from the frame up n it will still be below the rear window a good bit( Looks )
The room for the bed will be about 68" long, have to figure out the wheel wells also,with is bed.
I have also inclosed some New pic of the ft end with cab,side view of cab, rear view of cab.

[Russell Ashley]

T-P, Check out this build thread for an open wheel AD, might give you some inspiration and some styling tips.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=535417

[T-P Auto]

Russell;

Thank You;

cked out the link.
It did give me some different things to think on.
I'm going to keep the truck stock body for how.
worked on it yesterday(No Pic)
Will try to get some pic today .
Looks like I'm going to have some parts that will be of sale(if interested) will make a list on another post later.

Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello again.

I got to work on my project the last couple of days.
I'm sure that I'm going to upset some of you on this site with what I had to do.
I got the cab leveled on the frame to start building the cab mounts.
Got the motor n trans reset to cut out the firewall to clear the trans.
Will have to find a drive shaft to see how much more tunnel I have to make.
Took the old bed that I had, had to measure the frame to find out how much I had to cut off the front to fit the box on the frame.
I cut the front part of the cab,so that I could keep the tailgate n bed surports.
I took the fenders off to make it easy for me to move the bed around on the frame to center it over the tires.
Will have to build the floor frame work for the bed, after I clean the inside of the bed(the ugly corner rails(rusty).
Have not thought which floor to go with(wood or steel)
Have also got the fuel tank set in the frame,going to use the tank out of the Olds 4x4 as it set in the rear frame.
Hot useing the fuel pump in the tank(55psi) to much for a carb.
Once the bed is set on the frame level I'll reset the fenders to make it look cool.
Well here are some more pic of my project.