1953 3100 Dash replacement- How to help

[Greg4124]

I am new to this site and have been learning how to work on a 1953 replacement cab for my 49 truck. However, the cab I have has had some pretty severe cut outs at the instrument cluster and several new holes cut/drilled through it in places, which makes me feel that welding/body work is out of the question and I should replace the dash itself with an aftermarket dash available... I need to know if there is a video or other resource available to show me how to actually remove and replace a dash of this era. Can someone please get me started in the right direction for this type of task (step 1 through ??).

Thank you for whatever help or advise you can provide me in this attempt

[MARTINSR]

If you are building a truck you have the skills, it isn't a big deal at all.

This is it in a nutshell, you "unbolt" the spot welds. Here is a "Basics of Basics" on the the removal of spot welds and spot welded on panels. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basi...ls-222549.html

Believe me, this is super easy, just start doing it carefully, the "Basics" gives you the tricks needed to do an amazing job of "unbolting" a welded on panel.



Brian

[dwcsr]

As Brian has said its easier than it looks. Remember to use the spot weld drill on the dash side of the seam not the outside cowl part. You don't want holes on the outside when you re spot the window edge. You also don't want to drill all the way through the spot, just the dash side to weaken the weld and then you can use a seam spliter or what I use is a steck seam buster tool

http://www.steckmfg.com/20015_SeamBuster.html

[Greg4124]

@ Brian Martin "MARTINSR" and "dwcsr" Thank you so much for the quick and very informative responses to my question(s) and need for help. As I said in the original post, I am new to this activity and site. I am truly not sure you will even see this response back, so if not, for that I am truly sorry and hope to figure it out soon... :-)

I will try to follow your directions and related information very closely.

Greg

[MARTINSR]

As mentioned in the "Basics" you may need to cut away the dash to be able to get at the spot welds. Then sometimes the a part could have been put in first before the surrounding metal was welded to it. So you could could end up removing it then welding in the new one a little different. I have never examined the dash as to remove it being I don't need to. But just keep that in mind, it may take a little modification to how they did it to replace it. Maybe Dave will chime in on this being he has done one.

Brian

[dwcsr]

It would make it easier to cut the dash out all along the seams so you can get a good angle on the drill. I didn't actually do a dash i did the front cowl, roof, and pillars, the Cowl attaches to the dash, but its really the same methods involved. Cut away as much dash as you need to to get at the spots easily with what ever tool your using. Make sure you get the spots cut deep enough but not through the other side. Usually you'll see clean metal chips then they will get powered rust on them and that's when your at the next layer of metal and need to stop. Use a small cutter just big enough to cover the spot. Don't use a 3/8" cuter on a 1/4" spot. Your cutting just enough metal to release the spot or make it very easy to pop it with the seam buster without distorting the mating flange.

Just because the cutter says HSS (High Speed Steel) does not mean you spin it as fast as you can. Slow cutting under 1000 rpms with some type of paste lubricant. Blair equipment makes some very good stuff. It really make the cutter last longer and buying direct from blair its actually cheaper
http://shop.blairequipment.com/Cutte...nt-p/11750.htm