Frame rivet removal advice...

[specialtyretail]

Hey guys, what are you all using to remove the big rivets that hold brackets and crossmembers to the frame? I do not have a torch but just ordered a Chicago Pneumatic CP7150 air hammer, hoping that will do the trick. Thanks, Fred.

[leddzepp]

Cut an "x" in the rivet head with a cut off wheel. An air chisel will do the rest.

[specialtyretail]

Cool. I will give that a shot. Thanks, Fred.

[BMERDOC]

Punch dead center and drill a 3/16 pilot hole. Follow that with a 3/8" drill just past the depth of the rivet head and pop the head off with the air hammer. Makes really quick work of the rivets but you may run through a couple of bits depending on how many rivets you have to knock off.

[Sammy]

I grind the head to make a flat surface, drill the center shank then punch the shank out.

[TrkEnvy]

Use a 4 inch grinder with a cutting wheel. Cut the head off and use a punch to drive it thru. Fastest way I've found.

[specialtyretail]

Drill bits.. That is a whole other issue. Where is everyone getting GOOD drill bits anymore?

[specialtyretail]

Originally Posted by TrkEnvy

Use a 4 inch grinder with a cutting wheel. Cut the head off and use a punch to drive it thru. Fastest way I've found.

Fast is good....

[Fldawg]

i used a grinder and ground the heads off and used a air chisel to push the rest of the rivot out

[mcbassin]

Drill bits.. That is a whole other issue. Where is everyone getting GOOD drill bits anymore?

I order most of my drill bits from MSC. They have many grades. I would recommend cobalt for good wear and durability. Just stay away from there imports.

Originally Posted by Fldawg

i used a grinder and ground the heads off and used a air chisel to push the rest of the rivot out

I used this method and the slot in the head method. I found it cleaner to just grind the head off flush with the frame and then cheapy HF air hammer the rivet out. Some of them, you have to use a BFH and punch to get them started. I like the drilling method mentioned here too. Although I was lucky and didn't have to drill any of mine.

[asolde]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Punch dead center and drill a 3/16 pilot hole. Follow that with a 3/8" drill just past the depth of the rivet head and pop the head off with the air hammer. Makes really quick work of the rivets but you may run through a couple of bits depending on how many rivets you have to knock off.

This is how I do it too. The rivet metal is soft easy to drill.

[YBNORML]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Punch dead center and drill a 3/16 pilot hole. Follow that with a 3/8" drill just past the depth of the rivet head and pop the head off with the air hammer. Makes really quick work of the rivets but you may run through a couple of bits depending on how many rivets you have to knock off.

This works awesome. The only thing I do different is I use a cutting grease. It makes a bit of a mess, but com ones with the proper pressure and bit speed I find that my bits last 10x longer.

[specialtyretail]

Guys, I appreciate all the tips. Hopefully I can try them out this weekend, weather permitting. Thanks, Fred.

[screaminchevypickup]

Snap on air hammer no need to drill or grind... Knocks the heads right off..

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

Snap on air hammer no need to drill or grind... Knocks the heads right off..

This^^ Except hammer is "long throw". BAP-ting !

[gale]

Originally Posted by specialtyretail

Drill bits.. That is a whole other issue. Where is everyone getting GOOD drill bits anymore?

Any industrial supply should carry brands like Morse, etc. Home Depot only carries junk.

I only buy bits in packages of 12 and usually get "aircraft type, screw machine length" because they have a split point for easy starting and the stubby length is more difficult to break.

Try Rex Supply, McMaster-Carr, etc.

[specialtyretail]

Originally Posted by gale

Any industrial supply should carry brands like Morse, etc. Home Depot only carries junk.

I only buy bits in packages of 12 and usually get "aircraft type, screw machine length" because they have a split point for easy starting and the stubby length is more difficult to break.

Try Rex Supply, McMaster-Carr, etc.

Thanks Gale. i will check into that.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by asolde

This is how I do it too. The rivet metal is soft easy to drill.

it is kinda soft i used a sharp cold chisel and a bfh on some of them.
the trailing arm brackets on the c member were a bear to get too but this method worked great. oh and of course a good punch afterwards too knock it out.

[70blackfish]

my tip to you would be, don't take the head off and then use a Pointed center punch. it expands the rivet, use a flat head punch...ask me how i know...

[specialtyretail]

Originally Posted by 70blackfish

my tip to you would be, don't take the head off and then use a Pointed center punch. it expands the rivet, use a flat head punch...ask me how i know...

I think I can probably guess....

[CC69Rat]

Air hammer ftw.