Lower Control Arm Dimple and Saddle Pin

[dave-68]

Do these lower control arm saddle pins look right to you guys? One pic is the left side and the other is the right. I was hoping they would look different. I searched for pics of the pin/rivet and found the last pic in an ECE Tech Article. It looks perfect. On my installation I can't tell if the shaft dimple is lining up where it needs to or if it is seating in the wrong position. My plan is to weld the depression on the surface of the pin and grinding it flush again. Has anyone else run into this and what did you do to fix it?

[Kennuck]

Looks like someone clamped up the lower control arm shafts without having them lined up good.

I just replaced all mine with Moog parts and there is some clearance between the hole and the pin. Shouldn't cause you a problem.

[dave-68]

Thanks Kennuck. My only fear is that that shaft will want to slide back and seat in the wrong position. Will it matter if it does? It's off by about 3/16"- 1/4". Do you know of another reference point and dimension I can use?

[Kennuck]

To me it looks like the front edge of the pin is still intact and that the rear edge is flattened somewhat. If the new shafts will still engage in the pins just make sure to slide the shaft rearward to engage the undamaged part of the pin. You may need to remove a burr from the backside of the pin to get it to seat. These pins don't go very far into the hole on the shaft.

I held mine up with a floor jack while tightening the u bolts up. When I got the u bolts close I made sure the pins were still engaged and tightened them up. Once the U bolts are tight these pins don't really serve any further purpose.

[Kennuck]

Oh and that paint looks pretty thick, I would clean the paint off the saddle where it contacts the shaft.

[dave-68]

I'll give that a try. Good idea to remove some of the paint. Thanks for the help!

[67c10rustbuket]

I had a guy at work make me a new one and welded it in place. There are dimensions in the pic if you choose to have a new one made. Another member said he used an Allen head bolt "socket head cap screw" and it worked great. I also drilled out the U bolt holes for the larger 73+ style U bolts. More in my build thread on page 13-14 I believe.

[67c10rustbuket]

Pic two

[dave-68]

Dan- thanks. I thought about doing the SHCS idea but figured I'd fill and grind the damage just as easy. Thanks for the dims. They'll help when grinding and shaping. I figure I should be able to get it close with a pencil grinder....although turning a new pin might be easier and the best way. I'll measure how bad the damage and decide. By the way i notice you show two dims for the head dia .66 and .69. I assume the .69 is correct by the way it's circled? Thanks again

[67c10rustbuket]

Dave,
There was a slight taper measured on the other side but the guy who made the new alignment pin just went with the larger dimension. I believe he circled that dimension. At .69 it was a press fit. Zero slop bolting it up. Even at .66 your looking at .015 either way, well within spec for an easy alignment. My damaged side was caused (I suspect) from the u bolt snapping and coming loose. I hear the pass side U bolt breaking is quite common, and the reason I upgraded to the larger 73+ U bolts.

[dave-68]

Thank you. I'm gonna make new pins. I figure I'll have just as much time (maybe more) messing with welding and grinding the old and getting it right than just making new and welding them in. Appreciate all your help and info.