1 Barrel Carb Issues....

[62_C20builder]

I have a leak (from both sides) in the throttle shaft bearing and there is nowhere here in town that can fix it. So my choices are to buy another 1 barrel carb or possible upgrade to a 2 (or4) barrel card. I have a stock 235 motor with a 4 on the floor. If I upgrade to a 2 barrel, do I need an adapter or do I need to replace the manifold? I am assuming that upgrading to a 4 barrel it it is a given. Let me know what you guys think.....thanks!

[MitchFloyd]

I'd be looking on Ebay for a replacement if you can't rebuild it yourself. Unless you just want to go the 2bbl route.

[ACK]

You'd probably be better off ditching the Rochester B and going with a good 2 barrel. In the long run, you'll have a more reliable carb and better gas mileage. You'll need an adapter plate for the 2 barrel, but that shouldn't be too expensive.

[gmcdeadhead]

if you decide to go with the 1-barrel, i would get it at rockauto. it,s a remanufactured carb. it cost $120.00 plus $60.00 core charge. not bad for a reman carb for 120. i purchesd one last year and it runs great. maybe not so good gas mileage, but who cares .

[Sharps40]

You could try a newer Rochester MonoJet....it should bolt up pretty easy....have more vacuum ports than you need though, specially if ya pick up a later 70s monojet.

Unless yer willin to experiment with tuning and jetting a 2 barrel and modifying your linkage, one barrel is likely yer best route. However if you decide to go 2 then get ahold of Mr. Langdon at Stovebolt Engine Company.....everything ya need to put a Weber 32/36 progressive on it and start getting better performance and mileage.

However it looks to me like your leak is out the top and between top cover and bowl gasket. This could also lead to leakage out the butterflys if its perkin after shut down or even perkin/overfilling while driving.

[TJ's Chevy]

"If you can't fix it with a hammer..you have an electrical problem mate"
Time for a replacement. Smash up the old on with a sledge...and go to auto zone or ebay fer another.

[Dillon Rock]

The natural shafts bushings are shot pal. I had the same issue with mine and it gave a horrible running performance. Too much of a vacuum draw and hurts your fuel economy and constantly floods the manifold. I replaced my old one with the same style Rochester 1bbl and it ran like a champ. I'm now in the process of mounting a 2x1 Offy intake on my 292. It can cost ya around 40 bucks to replace the natural bushings with new drilled - and - pressed in bushings at your local carb/auto shop.

[62_C20builder]

That looks sweet man....I may have to do the in the future!

Originally Posted by Dillon Rock

The natural shafts bushings are shot pal. I had the same issue with mine and it gave a horrible running performance. Too much of a vacuum draw and hurts your fuel economy and constantly floods the manifold. I replaced my old one with the same style Rochester 1bbl and it ran like a champ. I'm now in the process of mounting a 2x1 Offy intake on my 292. It can cost ya around 40 bucks to replace the natural bushings with new drilled - and - pressed in bushings at your local carb/auto shop.

[62_C20builder]

Ok, so I got a refurbished one barrel carb from Classic Industries. At first glance it looked like someone played "kick the carb" with it, but I figured as long as it works who cares about cosmetics. I was excited and installed it in like 30 minutes, only to find that the choke cable screw was stripped. "No es bueno!" I was able to re-tap the screw hole in like 5 minutes. I finished hooking it, fired her up and......S***! It was a gusher! There was fuel spewing out from the bottom of the carb....epic failure! I was able to get an RA # from them and send it back for a refund.
Now, I have decided to go with a two barrel Holly carb. I bought a 1 to 2 barrel adapter and I already see a new issue. The throttle linkage is not going to be long enough. Were can I get another one or do I have to do some crazy mod?

[64chevtruck]

Howdy,

Thing is TJ, You CAN fix this with a hammer ) Ive done it more than a few times growing up.

62 C20 there is no bearings on that shaft its just snugly fit into the body of the carb.

The farmer fix for your old carb is to remove it and place one end of the shaft on an anvil or the back of your vice, Then take a center punch to the other end of the shaft and do a circle just in from the edge all the way around, Do the same to the other side and bolt it back on and run it.

The circle of center punches on the ends of the shaft will flare the ends out so the gas dont run out no mo. Be carefull not to do it too much or the shaft wont move no mo. So test movement every few punches.

Take care

Andy

[cg285]

you won't have gas around the throttle body shaft unless the carb is flooding. worn shaft/bushings creates a vacuum leak. from the first pic it appears there is fuel leaking down from the top - although not a lot.

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by 62_C20builder

Ok, so I got a refurbished one barrel carb from Classic Industries. At first glance it looked like someone played "kick the carb" with it, but I figured as long as it works who cares about cosmetics. I was excited and installed it in like 30 minutes, only to find that the choke cable screw was stripped. "No es bueno!" I was able to re-tap the screw hole in like 5 minutes. I finished hooking it, fired her up and......S***! It was a gusher! There was fuel spewing out from the bottom of the carb....epic failure! I was able to get an RA # from them and send it back for a refund.
Now, I have decided to go with a two barrel Holly carb. I bought a 1 to 2 barrel adapter and I already see a new issue. The throttle linkage is not going to be long enough. Were can I get another one or do I have to do some crazy mod?

Why didnt you get the one barrel from RockAuto brother?

[66Submarine]

FWIW, for future info; I have had carbs do what you describe several times when they dry out. Gasoline everywhere, just awful. Then, that same carb with nothing done to it will work perfectly. Cutting off the fuel and/or smacking the float bowl with something usually "fixes" it.

You could also have too much fuel pressure for the carb, although I'd think 235 fuel pumps would all have pretty low pressure.

Throttle linkage should be real easy to make up. Racing supply places like Summit sell little kits/parts for that, you can homemake something yourself, and you could also use a cable setup from a later truck.

[62_C20builder]

Thanks for the help guys! I will try them all until one works....or just go with a 2 barrel carb!

[TJ's Chevy]

Get a 500 cfm holley 2 barrel and get it over with. You will get a small increase in performance and have a brand spanking new carb. Trans Adapt sells adapters for the 2 barrel down to single and I have one. Costed me like $38 bucks give or take. Fabbing linkage would be piece of cake.

[gmcdeadhead]

Why didnt you get the one barrel from RockAuto brother?

yep, should have gotten it from rock auto like i said. mine works great and it was the cheapest price around.

[62_C20builder]

Well, I fixed the carb issue. I ordered a Rochester 2 barrel refurbished carb from Summit and it works like a charm....thanks for the input guys!

[ncoonen]

Originally Posted by 62_C20builder

Well, I fixed the carb issue. I ordered a Rochester 2 barrel refurbished carb from Summit and it works like a charm....thanks for the input guys!

Can you give the part number or year/model you ordered for? I have a leaky original 1bbl carby on the 230 in my '63 and I have been hemming and hawing about which away to go. The Weber might be a great piece but just doesn't seem right on this truck.

Thanks...ned.

[62_C20builder]

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. The part is URM-3-3190 form Summit. It bolts right on and runs great on my truck. The only problem I had was making a custom manual choke bracket. The stock carb has the bracket located on the inside (closest to the engine) side of the carb and the new carb requires you to move the bracket to the opposite side. All that being said, its worth it!

[62_C20builder]

Originally Posted by ncoonen

Can you give the part number or year/model you ordered for? I have a leaky original 1bbl carby on the 230 in my '63 and I have been hemming and hawing about which away to go. The Weber might be a great piece but just doesn't seem right on this truck.

Thanks...ned.

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. The part is URM-3-3190 form Summit. It bolts right on and runs great on my truck. The only problem I had was making a custom manual choke bracket. The stock carb has the bracket located on the inside (closest to the engine) side of the carb and the new carb requires you to move the bracket to the opposite side. All that being said, its worth it!