03-04-2014, 11:31 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New york
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82 k20 6.2l swap
i know there's a million threads on this but I didn't want to look around for a bunch of answers.
So i have a 400 ci and a th400 in my rig now, I know the 6.2 will bolt up the only thing is i have to change the torque converter. Im getting a full motor and engine wiring harness from a 86 m1028 along with dash and gauges and the dash wiring harness.What I'm asking is, is there anything else any of you guys know on the subject that will make the swap go smoother. Any advice will help Thanks |
03-04-2014, 11:48 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern Kalifornia
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Re: 82 k20 6.2l swap
fuel tanks and filters. Battery trays...you also have to change the governor in the trans. Check out The Diesel Place...GREAT site for these engines.
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03-04-2014, 11:51 PM | #3 |
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Location: New york
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Re: 82 k20 6.2l swap
thanks manimal, Ill check them out and i just put a new tank in so I'm going to reuse that one and i knew about the filters and trays
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03-05-2014, 12:47 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Big Valley. Alberta
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Re: 82 k20 6.2l swap
Ya,X2 on the diesel place..lots of good info over there.I've never heard about changing the governor for a diesel swap,but you will need a different torque converter.
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03-05-2014, 11:26 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: MA
Posts: 207
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Re: 82 k20 6.2l swap
Remember the CUCV trucks use a 24/12 volt system, so the starting and charging and injection pump are 24 volt. I think they drop to 12v for cab and body electronics but I'm not sure. Steel Soliders is a good site for the military rigs and parts.
Find a good fuel filter/ water seperator for the diesel and electric fuel pump for diesel. The pump should push the fuel through your filter/seperator assembly. Stock filter managers are pretty finicky. You need the diesel starter (civilian is 12v) and the best cables money can buy to the biggest and best batteries that you can afford. One battery will not do. Also the statrtes have a littl ebracket on the end (under the exhaust manifold). That bracket is important. These starters are big, heavy and strong. They snap start bolts like toothpicks, and have been know to break the ear right off of the block. You'll need a way to control the glowplugs. Once you decide on your voltage (12 or 24) get new glow plugs (Bosch Duratherms, Kennedy Qick Heat, or AC Delco 60 G only! stock 90Gs and other cheapos are known to swell in the head!) and control with a manual solenoid and swtich. The DP and other sites have tons of info on these. Be carefull pulling the old glow plugs out! They are ceramic and can snap off in the head if stuck or swollen!!!! While you have the engine out, gaskets and seals are easier to get to. The 6.2 has a rope seal for a rear main, which is a pain to get right, and is a bit of a leaker when left alone. Check the conditon of the pulleys and harmonic balancer. Mine looked good, but after removal the rubber was pretty cracked. Good PM to replace the balancer (AC Delco) and some suggest the timing chain. I suggest a 180 degree thermostat, upgraded fan clutch and the diesel (or better) radiator. Big block / diesel rubber engine mounts work better than the small block mounts. I think they have a bit more rubber.
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2012 Chevy 2500HD, 6.0L, 6spd auto, 4x4, ECSB 1987 GMC V3500 Dump, 6.2L diesel, TH400 1983 GMC K2500 - awaiting its restoration and Cummins swap. |
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