Oil-less turbos

[Billett]

Thought this might get more responses here than in the LS swap section. Anyone have any experience with these?

http://compturbo.com/spotlights/oil-less

http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-ind...mount-e85.html


I'm running a mostly stock LQ4 at the moment trying to get all the kinks worked out before I move to Forced Induction. I really like my DT swap headers, but they're just too big for the engine. I picked up the 1-7/8" primaries before I knew better and I had intended to keep them and run the comp turbo remotely but I may just sell them to help offset the cost of converting to turbo and run one (or two!) of these suckers in the engine bay.

According to a 2-year old thread an appropriate sized unit for a 6.0 costs about $2000.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...-mount-496557/


Thoughts?

[slowtruck]

If you are going to put them in the engine bay, why run them? You could get a s475 or s480 and be less than half the cost and running oil lines isn't that bad. But as a rear mount I'm sure they would life a lot better than running oil lines and a return pump.

[Billett]

Very true, I suppose I was just wondering if anyone had used them at all. The are supposed to spool significantly faster than standard style turbos. I realize that generally speaking if you match your turbo to your setup then you shouldn't have any significant lag anyway but I've only done research on these, no actual experience so I was wondering if they really were noticeably better in any way.

[slowtruck]

Sorry! No I haven't used them, I've only used a gt42 Garrett and a s91 Borg Warner turbo.

[BR3W CITY]

Aside from the ability to run them remotely, you gain the benefit of not worrying about oil drain. You can mount the turbo at ack-basswards angles and still have "complete" lubrication.

FWIW, on something like a road course car I could really see them being cool. Lets say your running a regular oil system in something like an fbody, without running the dry sump or similar...and you have a high front mount or twins. You take a corner at full tilt, weight and oil go to the outside. You take that corner a couple quarts low because of blowby, and all of a sudden your starving the high -side in a corner. Being able to wacky-mount your turbo and not stress oil drain or feed lines is a potentially huge plus in some applications. (I just noticed that they did one vertically on a snowmobile...which was cool as hell)

I've also heard good things about their efficiency, and the centers are billet so they weigh less than other large frame turbos. You still need a water line, but its orientation doesn't matter like the oil line usually does.

Cost wise, there is a big big difference when you get into the sizes you'd be looking at for a 346 or larger.

[Wasted Income]

Originally Posted by slowtruck

If you are going to put them in the engine bay, why run them? You could get a s475 or s480 and be less than half the cost and running oil lines isn't that bad.

I'm with this guy...

[Gumby]

read it all before ya go off on me..............

Im in that mix or battle, I can really only afford to go the cheap turbo kit route on my Firebird, but the place and location Im going to put it is limited. [ as I refuse to fill my engine compartment with piping / do the fab work or pay for it, floor and body will be notched for stockish ypipe mount it]

But then those dam oil lines and drain back,and and and.........

you can see one being done right now, same engine as mine
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6...review-17.html

But im not doing all that, I don't want it that bad, but I want it bad enough to find a way to do it how I want it done.

Down to a home built self contaiined oiling system for the turbo, cheap inline fuel pump [ or pumps, $15-20 each, will pump fuel for years no trouble, warm 30w oil, should make it last longer.] mini tank, mini rad cooler, no need for a filter if self contained.

plus none of that "normal" metal wear n engine gunk making its way into the turbo.

I know its not the right way, but the only way it will happen for me. Less oil-less became cheap-er....

Really, id notch the right side fender. floor and firewall and have it stick out the side [ ram air] like some crazy hotwheels car, before I did all that under hood piping fab work. [ my poor back ]

only goal is 5-7psi as Im not going super tuner, stock ECM can do 5-7, so thats my limit.

I want it , but not going all out. its my way or no way.

[Wasted Income]

Ok.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Gumby

read it all before ya go off on me..............

Im in that mix or battle, I can really only afford to go the cheap turbo kit route on my Firebird, but the place and location Im going to put it is limited. [ as I refuse to fill my engine compartment with piping / do the fab work or pay for it, floor and body will be notched for stockish ypipe mount it]

But then those dam oil lines and drain back,and and and.........

you can see one being done right now, same engine as mine
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6...review-17.html

But im not doing all that, I don't want it that bad, but I want it bad enough to find a way to do it how I want it done.

Down to a home built self contaiined oiling system for the turbo, cheap inline fuel pump [ or pumps, $15-20 each, will pump fuel for years no trouble, warm 30w oil, should make it last longer.] mini tank, mini rad cooler, no need for a filter if self contained.

plus none of that "normal" metal wear n engine gunk making its way into the turbo.

I know its not the right way, but the only way it will happen for me. Less oil-less became cheap-er....

Really, id notch the right side fender. floor and firewall and have it stick out the side [ ram air] like some crazy hotwheels car, before I did all that under hood piping fab work. [ my poor back ]

only goal is 5-7psi as Im not going super tuner, stock ECM can do 5-7, so thats my limit.

I want it , but not going all out. its my way or no way.

You sir, need a blower. Boost without having do anything.

[Blackpony]

I have dealt with a few. both were 76 mm units, one on a jeep srt8 and the other on an ls swapped miata I helped build a custom rear mount kit for. The miata ended up making around 700rwhp through a t-56 on 15 lbs. The engine was pretty basic with mild cam, stage 1 heads, and stock everything else. Thus far both vehicles are yet to have a turbo issue. Both spool just fine and run great.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Blackpony

I have dealt with a few. both were 76 mm units, one on a jeep srt8 and the other on an ls swapped miata I helped build a custom rear mount kit for. The miata ended up making around 700rwhp through a t-56 on 15 lbs. The engine was pretty basic with mild cam, stage 1 heads, and stock everything else. Thus far both vehicles are yet to have a turbo issue. Both spool just fine and run great.

who's stage 1 heads? 700rwhp is like 800 crank through a t-56... Thats enough power to threaten the stock block and then some. On only 15lbs that would be impressive efficiency especially though a mild cam on a worked head, or a generous dyno. No mods to ring gap, no rod bolts etc?