260hp Crate Engine Advice

[Hugh Mongus]

I received my crate engine yesterday. I also have a Lunati 262 cam that I ordered when I was going to rebuild my motor (before ordering the crate). Those that have this engine in their truck and have experienced the performance, would you recommend any mods prior to installation or are you perfectly happy with it as it came? I would like to perform any mods prior to installation while it's easy to do.

Thanks in advance.

[Lou Boffa]

subscribed

[1968C20CST]

That motor is only 260 with the right carb,intake, dizzy and exhaust. 195 in stock trim. What are your plans for those parts?

[Hugh Mongus]

I have an Eddie 600cfm performer carb, Performer RPM intake, flowtech headers, and an Accel HEI distributor.

I was thinking about taking the 492 heads off my current motor and having them rebuilt so I could install them on the new crate engine. This would bump up the compression and should be an improvement in flow. The cam I bought cam with all new springs, retainers, and lifters plus a double roller timing set.

Basically I am trying to decide if I should just use the engine as is, install a cam only, or do what I mentioned above.

[bigmac73]

i agree that engine is a little on the light side, but if you do any mods to the top you will lose your warranty , so no protection even for the bottom end

i would run as is for now, get the bottom end broke in good and after you feel comfortable about the engine then i would beef up the top end

[suspect]

I'm a huge cam swap fan, but bigmac makes a good point about the warranty. I would do like he said and break it in first and be itching to be ready to put that cam in. Plus, a cam swap while the engine is installed isn't much hassle for the gains you get. Good luck!

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

i agree that engine is a little on the light side, but if you do any mods to the top you will lose your warranty , so no protection even for the bottom end

i would run as is for now, get the bottom end broke in good and after you feel comfortable about the engine then i would beef up the top end

Not really what I was wanting to hear, but probably sound advice.

[cdowns]

void your warrenty right out of the box b4 takin a test drive is very very smart

[BB72CHEVKT]

If you install the motor yourself I do not think the 3yr 100k miles warranty applies anyway. I could be wrong but that is what I remember reading somewhere that it had the be installed by an approved shop.

[cdowns]

not true

[Hugh Mongus]

Our trucks are beyond the years that receive the full warranty. These motors are covered for 12 months / 12k miles regardless of who installs them, per GM.

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by cdowns

void your warrenty right out of the box b4 takin a test drive is very very smart

If I were to do what I said above, since I am not a mechanic, I would take it to a local rebuilder for the work. They would give me the same warranty offered by GM once the work was complete. Therefore, it would be no loss to me.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by Hugh Mongus

If I were to do what I said above, since I am not a mechanic, I would take it to a local rebuilder for the work. They would give me the same warranty offered by GM once the work was complete. Therefore, it would be no loss to me.

Here's where I have to bow to you, Hugh.

I've been stumbling around for months trying to decide whether to install my freshly rebuilt, bigger exhaust valved 062 (Vortec 64cc) heads on the mild 350 that's
now running pretty well in RAT. Smokes a little on start up. Which bugs. Switching out the heads could either fix the smoking if it's valve seals, or screw the pooch
by putting more "squeeze" on to some tired rings, etc.

She's pretty good for power with the HEI, headers, Eddy intake and Street Demon carb. A little light. Also, "sluffing off" a little with the 308 gears.

So, thanks to a great Forum Member and another very close friend, I now have two (empty) standard four bolt 350 blocks on stands in the garage.
One ZZ4 (w set up for roller lifters), and one flat tappet block.

I don't know what to do......Too many combos. Lots of money one way or another. Some decisions will cost more. Some will bring more HP/Torque.
One way or another, the machine shop gets the first $$$$$. And, it seems that putting dough into the older block makes less sense. But going with the
roller means it should probably get the 383 treatment....etc, etc, etc. Aieeee!

Here's where I hand it to you:

You jumped on the crate motor. Now, you have a base for whatever you want to do.....You just went for it. Now, you get to decide what you want out of
your truck and slap the parts on it (or not) to meet that demand.

I *think* know what I'd do.
But I'm not you.

[BB72CHEVKT]

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the crate?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The glory of these Goodwrench engines is the reliability of them. It is factory assembled. Put in correctly they will run for years & thousands of miles without any concern. I have put in many of them & they run good with no problems. I have one in my 56 1/2 ton now with 3 carbs. It has plenty of power & idles so smooth you can't even tell its running. Unless you are going raceing I can't see any reason to modify it. Lets face it. When you have someone else work on it you are not sure how it will turn out.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by Hugh Mongus

If I were to do what I said above, since I am not a mechanic, I would take it to a local rebuilder for the work. They would give me the same warranty offered by GM once the work was complete. Therefore, it would be no loss to me.

you have a local guy that is going to honor the work that gm did??

keep dreamin

[TrkEnvy]

I agree with breaking it in stock then turning her up. Even though gm builds those crates all.day long, a goose egg gets out once and a while im sure. Last thing you wanna do is tear apart a fresh motor with a warranty only to have it spin a bearing or something because someone was having a bad day while assembling your bottom end. Then you are stuck with junk parts and no motor.

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by cdowns

you have a local guy that is going to honor the work that gm did??

keep dreamin

Already spoke to them about the modifications and what I wanted. Believe it, don't believe, I don't give two ****s.

[BrianG]

why not just sell the crate motor if a built motor is what you really want? Seems like a rebuild would be about the same cost as a crate motor if you already have all the other parts anyhow. Or just put in the crate and be done. Might not have the sound and power that you are looking for, but with the right rear gear, that's still plenty of power for must needs. I'd do one or the other, but not run the crate, then tear it apart later.... just my 2 cents, since you asked.

[BB72CHEVKT]

I have this motor in my burb which is a big vehile and drive it daily. I would like a little more power but it still is gets of the line pretty good with the 3.73 and 700r4. I am considering replacing it with a new one.

[Hugh Mongus]

Originally Posted by BB72CHEVKT

I have this motor in my burb which is a big vehile and drive it daily. I would like a little more power but it still is gets of the line pretty good with the 3.73 and 700r4. I am considering replacing it with a new one.

Thanks. That was what I was looking for.

[67_C-30]

I've added heads and cams to a couple of these engines for people over the years. I've done it after they have been broken in and done it when they were brand new. The shortblock is adequate for a pretty stout engine, but the heads are junk for performance. The Nova below ran 12.30's @ 110 with stock 260HP crate bottom end and with a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, RPM heads, and a Comp XE284 hyd cam. The Nova ran 15.20's with the engine stock. The only he did to car was change the 2400 Holeshot converter to a 3000 Holeshot and went from a 600 Edelbrock to a Holley 650 DP.

The other one I did got a set of Vortecs and a Comp XE268. It went into a '84 Camaro with a 700R4 trans. Both were night and day different in how they ran.

[Daman]

My question is why don't you guys just buy the short block?

[Hugh Mongus]

Everywhere I looked at short blocks they actually cost more than the long block.

[Daman]

$639 for crank, rods, flat top pistons, junk cam, in the block with oil pan and timing cover at the dealer here