Looking a buy a Lifted 1983 GMC 4x4, 3/4 Ton, Is it worth the price?

[SigFTW]

The truck was a diesel 3/4 ton but the previous owner put a new 350 hp motor in it about 15,000. The truck starts "First Time, Every Time".Motor has Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor & Edelbrock Chrome Valve Covers. Also has Dual Exhaust headers with Flowmaster mufflers.

Automatic transmission with 4X4 gear shift lever in floor with Locking Hubs on front axle

Body has been lifted about 5 inches from original height and looks great. No damage and the grey paint job is about 2 years old.

Gator Guard II" spray in bedliner. Chrome front & back bumpers. Rear tires are practically new (still have little rubber tabs on sidewalls) Yohohama "Geolandar A/T-S" 315/75R16's. Front tires have about 50% tread left and are Radial APR Stell Belted 315/75R16's.

The Issues:

The front end is a little loose. I don't have any problem driving it but a young driver might.

Power Steering leaks a little. I am working on locating the leak but haven't yet.

A/C needs to be rebuilt

Dash is in bad shape

Driver vent window broken out.

They are asking $4,000, is it worth is?

[old Rusty C10]

Id give $2500 for it not a penny more but im in nj in texas trucks go for more

[79Betty]

Offer 2500, haggle, probably end up at 3500... Use the AC not working to your advantage!!

[tlawre87]

Up north of you, oklahoma, that's more like a 3k-3.3k truck. I would be asking for receipts on the motor. If he doesn't have proof of that then who really knows on the motor. Plus it doesn't have matching tires (maybe not a big deal to you) that are half worn.
Just like texas, trucks do tend to go for a bit more. Esp 4x4 ones.

It all really comes down to what you're willing to pay.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I agree with the guy above 3-3.3k. In my area for a bit more then asking you can get one that is done.

Also for the lift, and tires he has no cross over steering. Which from my understanding becomes a huge improvement when going off road.

[nekkidhillbilly]

4-5k in ky do not find them that solid here.

[hartbraker]

The front end is a little loose... ya don't say? Look at the tire lean in the picture. I'd say you'd have at least $350 in parts, tightening up the front end. But on the plus side, the body looks to be outstanding (DEPENDING on how much bondo they used during the paint job)

If the body checked out solid as a rock. I'd consider it for $3,500. I'm willing to bet that it doesn't, in which case, I wouldn't even make an offer on the truck. If you go to look at it, look at the back side of the panels, when possible (peaking inside the bedsides and what not) and tap around on the cab corners and rockers listening for a change in tone that would indicate filler. Looks to be a young guns truck and was probably driven as such. I'd want receipts on the motor as well. Let us know what happens!

[nekkidhillbilly]

no would walk away if full of filler.

[doubleclucker]

Some things to bring up while trying to bring price down are-What year is the cab and or frame actually check vin # to verify- the motor looks to be the old style 2 piece rear main seal but has the front accessories from a 88-95 serpentine belt system so the alternator should have a resitor in the trigger wire to function properly (or idiot light)and the a/c lines would have to be custom to configure from newer compressor to the old style a/c components- also with the hydroboost brakes the power steering pump needs 2 return lines on rear of pump or is there a tee this may be a cause of the leak as too much volume back to pump on 1 line. though you can swap the pulley and use the unused threaded hole on original pump to bolt to the new bracket- check upper rear shock mount holes for egg shape
-look for behind steering box cracks or wore out steering parts or broken center bolts that would explain steering looseness
-check front u-joint caps for wear to make sure they are not hitting ball joints while turning locked in
-lastly look for body mounts falling through their mount bracket
just some things to look for and mention to bring the price down where it should be

[motornut]

if it's as solid as it looks,I would expect to pay that up here
with parts different colours....kinda looks high mileage to me
bring a fridge magnet,and cleenex ,to look for bondo
magnet will stick,(or not)cleenex prevents scratching
there is assembly number on the drivers cowel area,it should be on the firewall and other places,like the back of the cluster,make sure it's the same or it's been changed(mileage?)...
rear end kinda looks wet,look on bottom of floor above rear diff.(yoke leak or ujoint spray)
but both diffs could be wet from fluid change too

[RastaRobb]

I think 4 grr is the right asking neighborhood out West. Looks good, but that driver's side front tire angle is suspicious. Pull 30 Benjamins out of your pocket--nothing speaks louder than cash.

[520CheyenneK10]

This thread is a perfect example of why these forums are so valuable. The feedback on this rig should tell a guy to run not walk and keep on looking....unless this is what you absolutely have your heart set on. Be thankful there is so much knowledge and experience in both buying and repairing these rigs right here at your disposal.

Now, in my opinon, I would keep on looking and pass this one up. Too radical of a change from diesel to gas for me to consider much beyond that.

[SigFTW]

Guys,

Thanks for all the valuable feedback, y'all are awesome! I will pass, ran some numbers and would cost more than I could talk hem down to buy just to brake even.

I'll keep looking!
Dave

[dieseldawg142]

one thing you also might want to check close is how's everything look with that body lift in it. seen stretched wires & b. lines, hard column shifters, overheating with no shroud left, etc. check the mounts & bushings very carefully, extra leverage on them now.
$4000? depends on how rust free the body is. if it's as good as you say.....i paid alot more for that for my crew, but it IS rust free, and when ya just gotta have it......

[meatwagon83]

man 5 inches is a lot of body lift,and its the cheap way to lift a truck, what else has been done the cheap way? body looks to be in decent shape, i would say 3200, would be a bit more but the body lift is a real turn off for me

[Chevy3+3]

To me it looks like it has about 6 inches of total lift. It has lift blocks under the rear springs (appears to be 3-4" blocks) so that would suggest it has front lift springs. Judging by the visibility of the fuel tank below the bedside I would say it has 2-3" of body lift. The truck looks pretty decent in my opinion.

If it was me I would offer $3k cash and pull the body lift off if you get it bought. Use the $1k you saved and buy some new tires and change all the fluids on it and drive the wheels off of it, lol