it lives (well, it lived)

[littlevictories]

Got my swap buttoned up yesterday. Couple of small annoyances but it went together fairly straightforward. Only bought the wrong parts a couple times

I'm having a couple issues which maybe some of y'all more experienced fellas can shed light on.

1) killed my new driveshaft, or at least the front u-joint. using a modified 2-peice. similar to what happened to the old one, threw all the grease out when I hit about 75 on the freeway just happened in one freeway blast instead of over time. pinion angle? whats that? lol, wumpa-wumpa-wumpa

2) belt squeal from hell, which developed only after about an hour or two of driving.

3)knock sensor codes if I wing it past 4k. instantly pig rich and dog slow until I clear em. will headers and emission delete will cause that much of a change in the fueling requirements?

4) electric fan not coming on. I think I just boogered up my relay wiring. pretty sure i'm getting a pcm signal at 192* degrees


all in all it went in pretty easy. was it worth it? ask me after i sort these issues and get a tune. probably close to $4k for a stock set up. I could build 2 junkyard vortec headed 400's for that much, blow them both up and still have enough to drown my sorrows at the titty bar.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by littlevictories

1) killed my new driveshaft, or at least the front u-joint. using a modified 2-peice.

Are you using a carrier bearing? Do you mean the joint at the front yolk...the one coming from the trans? Pinion angle can screw a lot up, depending how severely its out. Might help to also see if there is an abnormal amount of side-to-side movement anywhere like the rear end that would help a false-positive for drivetrain misalignment.

2) belt squeal from hell, which developed only after about an hour or two of driving.

If your running a/c, make sure the mag clutch is switched off, especially if the compressor is dry or not hooked up. The flat tensioners can wear out their bearings, or be way-over tightened. If you painted the engine or if it sat or was mega-degreased, they can get silt/paint/gunk in them and seize. Double check your belt size as well, if your using any non-stock configuration . Also take a gander at your power steering pump and make sure it's got fluid and isn't sticking.

3)knock sensor codes if I wing it past 4k. instantly pig rich and dog slow until I clear em. will headers and emission delete will cause that much of a change in the fueling requirements?

Since its running, I assume you had some sort of mail order tune put in? It doesn't use the 02 signal at WOT. Do you toss any cam or crank sensor codes? CASE relearn helps some of that, but I don't think it would be rpm specific. Which codes exactly are you getting, and under what throttle/load conditions do you get it?

4) electric fan not coming on. I think I just boogered up my relay wiring. pretty sure i'm getting a pcm signal at 192* degrees

Depending on your setup, there might be two fan relays or two signal wires. If your running 1 fan, or single speed fans, make sure your using the primary wire, not the "fan2" wire for when the a/c is on.

all in all it went in pretty easy. was it worth it? ask me after i sort these issues and get a tune. probably close to $4k for a stock set up. I could build 2 junkyard vortec headed 400's for that much, blow them both up and still have enough to drown my sorrows at the titty bar.

Check out the suggestions in Lucida Console Bold Italic . It usually ends up being worth it from the power, mileage and reliability standpoint...all of which would surpass the fi-headed 400.

The other bonus with ls motors is that you can tell strippers "its a corvette motor", and for all they care...it is.

[littlevictories]

thanks for taking the time to reply, i was a little butthurt about breaking my new toy.

1) lemme give you some back story on the drive line. The trans being replaced is a 4l60 from an s-10. and it was using the stock s-10 one bolt mount on a ghetto-fabbed trans crossmember (3" c-channel with some holes drilled in it.

with the new motor, the headers did not hang as low (TBSS pacesetters) so I grabbed a trans crossmember from a '74 c-10 with the dual exhaust humps. also used a stock for '74 double bolt trans mount. this had the effect of raising the tail of the trans about 3/4" inch overall. with the frame level on a bubble level, i was getting about 4* rearward tilt for the engine as measured from the knock sensor cover. i thought that was pretty chill.

the driveline was previously shortened to run in the 350/4l60 combo, but it had issues. the carrier bearing had seized and spun on the splines and the front-most u joint was toast. (this turned out to be the death wobble i was chasing around the tires and wheels the past 6 months-DOH!)

So I had six states replace the u-joint, weld on a new splined section, new carrier bearing and balance the whole assembly, front and rear shafts. they marked the phase and I was sure to assemble it that way.

I took it for a couple short test runs, and it was awesome. throttle response and instant tire smoke. Later on, I went for a longer freeway run to check the lock-up and it cycled on and off perfectly. The cruise control type brake switch worked great. Maybe the 7th or 8th time it just went all to ****. As soon as it went into 4th I got a death wobble X 10. I limped it home and went to bed all sad.

I pulled the driveline last night, and the front joint seems a tiny bit stiff, compared to the broken-in joints in the rear section but other than that totally cool. carrier bearing is smooth as butter. I did notice that with the truck on the ground I have about 1.5" of yoke snout hanging out of the tail section of the trans. I was was under the impression that you want around 5/8" to 7/8"

I am worried that the yoke is not being fully supported by the output shaft bushing. I'm gonna run the shaft over to the driveline guy and ask what he thinks.

Also had the idea that since the output shaft of the trans is 3/4" higher I need to raise the carrier bearing by a similar amount. It's already geeked because the 4" drop springs.

That's all I got on that so far. Sorry for the novel, lol. Any insight is helpful.

[littlevictories]

oh and I got into the other issues too. No A/C, and the PS pump seems chill. I think the belt is just toasted from sitting in a box for a year or more. cheap to replace so I'll start there. Probably should have done that before I went crying to the internet, lol.

the knock sensor codes are the only ones coming up. They pop up over 4 grand, loaded driving or even just revving in park. Clear em with torque pro and it's back to running fantastic. 21+ "/hg vacuum and idles around 530 rpm.

A thought I had there, my cheap chinese mech fuel gauge is saying 48 psi at idle. Which by my research should be cool for flex fuel injectors & regulator, if on the low side. Gonna try a new regulator and see what gives. It's obvious to me that it needs a proper tune, (mail-order lt1-swap.com thing) just gotta sort the driveline and fan relay and research who does good work here locally.

[BR3W CITY]

You'll want to see a touch higher than 48, closer to 58 on the fuel pressure. If there is a pressure issue, we need to look further back at pump, pump voltage, filter or line clog etc.

The flex fuel injectors are stock correct? (not swapped onto a non-ff truck from an ff truck?)

[littlevictories]

yup, stock injectors native to this motor, harness and in my "tune". all my research says the flex fuel vin Z motors are regulated to ~50psi and of course who the hell knows if my $5 ebay gauge is right.

driveline guy say my joints and carrier are still cool, but I gotta correct some angles. Gonna try raising the carrier bearing up to ease the pinion angle. Suggested we try a 1 pc. shaft if all else fails. I'm wary, I have had really bad luck with long 1 pc shafts.

[BR3W CITY]

You are correct on the fuel pressure, I'm quoting the gas motors out of habit.
FF trucks were 48-54, with the vac line off, so your within spec on that.

Your vacuum is good as well; tell me exactly which code (number) your getting. Also, who did the tune and/or what sort of tune is it?

Some develop a false knock around 4k, but its usually on cammed cars where high lift or solid motor mounts etc set off b,s knock readings....but stock swap, stock tune this shouldn't be an issue.


I forget what suspension/rear end you have, but is there any chance the axle is off-centering or wrapping? You'll change driveline angles all day to no avail if thats happening.

Pour more info on me.

[littlevictories]

the "tune" is from lt1swap.com and is utterly stock as far as i know.

the rear end on my '66 is the "truck arm" thing gm liked on middle weight trucks back then.

lower trailing arms, with a panhard bar. coils springs sitting on the arms.

drive shaft is the stocker. a "heavy duty" carrier bearing that sits on the carrier/truck arm cross member rather than hanging down like the "light duty" one.

as measured my pinion angle is like -10* (down) or something crazy.

been looking at axle tube clamps on circle track sites. gonna try raising the carrier bearing up and see if that at least alleviates it a little.

damn driveline is looking like this \_____/ right now

[littlevictories]

i'll get the code number next time I can take it out and goose it.

Thanks for all the help man, I appreciate it.

[littlevictories]

P0327 and P0332 are the codes.

new belt mostly fixed the squeal, but i can hear a bearing whine somewhere.

driveline back in, carrier spaced upward 1" and no death wobble at freeway speed with the TC locking and unlocking. super stoked on that.

[Clyde65]

I found this...
Found the problem! The KT116 sensors don't play well with the truck. I changed to ADCelco 213-3521 sensors and the same new harness I used and everything cleared up within 40 miles. The job was much easier the second time, but still a pain!
They ohmed out at 99.9 and 100.0 ohms, I didn't check them running.
The tank of gas I ran with the knock sensors out of wack was just over 10 mpg! EEK! Timing advance under moderate acceleration with the bad sensors was around 4 to 8 degrees. With the ACDelco it was around 16 to 25 degrees. I am assuming that is quite a hit in power and efficiency.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...-wont-go-away/

[littlevictories]

could easily be that. i used ks116's and didnt use a new harness. the OG one ohm'd out fine. easy enough to find out though.

any chance i could have a vacuum leak causing it? i'd be getting a lean O2 or a misfire though right?

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

Check the PS pulley alignment. The make a chirp or squeal sometimes intermittently. I moved mine approx a 1/16 and my very annoying at idle squeal disappeared. Jay

[littlevictories]

Hey thanks, i'll take a look at that. I didn't even think to look there.

The fan relay was wired fine, truck wasn't getting hot enough. Apparently needs to hit 201* to turn on.

Ordered up some delco sensors and a new harness. If anyone is mid swap and reading this, please learn from my stupidity and just buy the right **** the first time.

[BR3W CITY]

The fan set points/temps can be modified in the tune if you find yourself getting too hot before they turn on. Personally, I let my fan go early most of the time. I spend a few moments longer to warm up, but on a summer car or track vehicle, this is negligible.

I always find that by the time you think "hey, why aren't the fans on", a slightly-overheating truck can work its way to fully-overheating. I'm also a big advocate for fan cooled trans coolers as well, but thats a different thread.

[littlevictories]

brew, what do you run yours at? we dont get the extreme cold as you guys do, but i bet the average highs and lows are similar

jimmy, man i owe ya. rented the installer and i went on like .100" and the noise instantly went away.

dang ol serpentine belts man. im used to the v-belt lifestyle. makin noise? just crank that alternator over another 1/2"

[littlevictories]

Well, some proper delco sensors and new harness seemed to do the trick.
5500rpm, no codes.

Pretty bummed to find so much oil in the intake. Better get on that catch can situation asap.

Bought one of these in a drunken ebay sesh.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLEMISHED-Po...3ccae9&vxp=mtr

How I connect this thing? close off the throttle body inlet, one side of the can to intake, other to valve cover/PCV valve ?(more of a restrictor than a valve in my case)

[softballnrd27]

Sounds like you got it all figured out which is always good.
My only question is where did the $4000 price tag come from? What motor are you using?

[littlevictories]

eh, that was more like a rough estimate
$900 5.3 take out motor
$850 rebuilt transmission
$100 core charge for trans
$350 radiator
$300 gas tank
$100 fuel pump
$250 fuel lines & fittings
$250 drive line
$100 gaskets
$50 plug wires
$50 cai
and then add $50 everytime you go to the parts store
add a couple more fifties to re-buy the right things for the wrong things you bought, lost or broke

Yes i'm sure there are cheaper ways of going about it. Not having the time to re-do a bunch of stuff, this was the cheapest way I found.

[littlevictories]

"battery looks kinda old and crappy, might as well get an optima while I'm here"

-last words of dead-broke adult college student

[softballnrd27]

I lucked out on mine bc I already had a decent trans so I can build a 4l80e later, and i only paid $400 for my 5.3. I never added it up I just guesstimated but after looking at your list I'm afraid to add mine up, LOL. I did a bunch of suspension stuff and rewired the truck as well during the swap.

[littlevictories]

that's called project creep and that's what killed me

probably could have hit the $2500 budget I set had I went with an external pump, reused my trans, used hose clamp fuel lines etc…

new driveline, re-did the brake lines, headers, new exhaust

bright side is it's friggin sweet. torque pro app is saying 22mpg with about a 70/30 hwy/city split.