Question about my brakes

[pbajwabb]

1969 c10

Hey guys,

So I have slowly been doing work on my recently purchased c10 but want to move onto brakes and steering just to make it a bit safer.

As of now when I brake there is pressure (its not falling to the floor) but I have to brake WAY early. From 50-0 if I slammed on the brakes it would need 20-30 yards I estimate.

If there is pressure I believe that means the lines are okay and have fluid right?

Is this an issue of new pads/drums? I dont really know where to start but I know someone here can point me in the right direction.

Also, I am pretty damn handy and will probably take care of it myself but what would an estimate be to have this done in a shop? I take steering and stopping very seriously.

Thanks fellas!

[SS Tim]

Start with a manual and do some basic service like verify the fluid levels. Inspect for signs of leakage or even seepage that could indicate a wheel cylinder issue. The shoes could be soaked and or worn. The adjusters may be frozen thus the brakes are out of adjustment. The drums may very well be heavily worn too and combined with worn shoes could cause a low pedal in use.
Frankly brakes are not a good do it yourself, learn as you go project.
A mentor with tools is a great start though.
The way I always do it is to pull the drums and do a quick inspection, describe what we are seeing then go through a rebuild on one side. Then have them do the other side as I observe.
Study up a manual and see if it looks clear to you. Then think about pulling drums and taking a look inside. Remember sometimes even just getting a drum off can be a project. Frozen bolts, hoses and flare nuts all provide a challange and often require the proper tool to get it fixed.
The factory manuals are good but assume a certain level of knowledge.
A Haynes manual would be a place to go if the factory manuals prove a little too cryptic.
The factory manuals can be downloaded from a link posted in my signature.
If you take it to a shop and they replace everything it can get very expensive fast. Remember brakes are either sevicable or not. There is no "good enough" for driving out on the streets.

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Start with a manual and do some basic service like verify the fluid levels. Inspect for signs of leakage or even seepage that could indicate a wheel cylinder issue. The shoes could be soaked and or worn. The adjusters may be frozen thus the brakes are out of adjustment. The drums may very well be heavily worn too and combined with worn shoes could cause a low pedal in use.
Frankly brakes are not a good do it yourself, learn as you go project.
A mentor with tools is a great start though.
The way I always do it is to pull the drums and do a quick inspection, describe what we are seeing then go through a rebuild on one side. Then have them do the other side as I observe.
Study up a manual and see if it looks clear to you. Then think about pulling drums and taking a look inside. Remember sometimes even just getting a drum off can be a project. Frozen bolts, hoses and flare nuts all provide a challange and often require the proper tool to get it fixed.
The factory manuals are good but assume a certain level of knowledge.
A Haynes manual would be a place to go if the factory manuals prove a little too cryptic.
The factory manuals can be downloaded from a link posted in my signature.
If you take it to a shop and they replace everything it can get very expensive fast. Remember brakes are either sevicable or not. There is no "good enough" for driving out on the streets.

Thank you for the heads up, I am going to take a look at everything tonight or tomorrow. I am hoping its just low fluid or air in the lines. If it has plenty of fluid I will inspect drum. I have done brake pad work on new cars but I am not familiar with these.

[pbajwabb]

Alright so I did a visual inspection and did not notice any leaks anywhere in the lines so i popped the lid off the master cylinder (thats where the reservoir is right?) and noticed there was a little in there but it wasn't topped off. Could this possibly be related to the weak brakes?

[pbajwabb]

Re added photo

[SS Tim]

So did you download a manual yet?
In your case there is no 1969 manual posted up yet but there is a GMC. I'd suggest you go ahead aand download a 1970 Chevy as it will be close enough for most and its free. Then you will probably want to get a proper 1969 paper copy too.

Take a look in the 70 information section, pg 0-17 you will find information on brake servcie. Also there is more in the actual brake section as well.
But back to you question, the fluid level spec is 1/4" below the top of the reservoir.

The fluid level should be about that level. But wear and leaks will reduce it. If it gets too low air can be drawn into the system causing weak spongy brakes.

My bet is not only is the fluid low but also very dark too.

So you could try topping the master to the 1/4" spec but that will more confirm than fix. No matter if the fluid is dark a flush is a good idea.

Understand, trying to diagnose a brake problem is very generalized at best this way so if this is greek to you get some local help.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by pbajwabb

Re added photo

Nothing like overlapping posts.
Yea, That is really low even my dog is shaking her head.
Try topping it up and see if anything good happens. More than likely you may find a leak.
Also look inside the truck too it can leak onto the floor as well from the master cylinder.

[imjeff]

Over time the brake fluid absorbs water and gets funky. One of the best ways to get some pedal back is new fluid. I would consider stepping up to discs in the front...easy to do and great stopping. There are lots of great threads on brake issues. Good luck!

Jeff

[nolimitssjca]

For reference you should be able to lock up the wheels on your truck with a hard stop. A slow stop is indicative of relative low pressure on the shoes resulting in not being able to lock up the wheels.

Low fluid is irrelevant as long as the fluid is high enough to prevent air from entering the lines.

Start by pulling the front wheel and hub off and looking at the shoes. Shoes are very serviceable and at about $15 a set they are way more affordable than a disc swap.

Next, time to replace the brake fluid. It's easy to do by yourself (or with help) with a Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit .

Just know that brake fluid wicks moisture over time (it's water soluble). This makes the fluid change color (from clear to black). The presence of the moisture in the fluid allows the fluid to compress under pressure and become soft causing long brake times.

With proper brake tools changing the shoes and springs is a fairly simple task. I can help walk you through it when the time comes.

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Nothing like overlapping posts.
Yea, That is really low even my dog is shaking her head.
Try topping it up and see if anything good happens. More than likely you may find a leak.
Also look inside the truck too it can leak onto the floor as well from the master cylinder.

Hey Tim,

I didnt meant to overlap, someone told me I couldnt link to images in my gmail so I was under the impression that my first post didnt have a picture. I appologize.

Anyways, I am going to run to oreily tomorrow and get a Haynes (I like having the actual book)

I will keep you posted

[pbajwabb]

Originally Posted by nolimitssjca

For reference you should be able to lock up the wheels on your truck with a hard stop. A slow stop is indicative of relative low pressure on the shoes resulting in not being able to lock up the wheels.

Low fluid is irrelevant as long as the fluid is high enough to prevent air from entering the lines.

Start by pulling the front wheel and hub off and looking at the shoes. Shoes are very serviceable and at about $15 a set they are way more affordable than a disc swap.

Next, time to replace the brake fluid. It's easy to do by yourself (or with help) with a Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit .

Just know that brake fluid wicks moisture over time (it's water soluble). This makes the fluid change color (from clear to black). The presence of the moisture in the fluid allows the fluid to compress under pressure and become soft causing long brake times.

With proper brake tools changing the shoes and springs is a fairly simple task. I can help walk you through it when the time comes.

Thanks for the offer, I am going to get the front up on stands tomorrow and check it out.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by pbajwabb

Hey Tim,

I didnt meant to overlap, someone told me I couldnt link to images in my gmail so I was under the impression that my first post didnt have a picture. I appologize.

Anyways, I am going to run to oreily tomorrow and get a Haynes (I like having the actual book)

I will keep you posted

Not a problem at its just easier to follow when messages (and pictures) stay in sequence. Lots to learn here for sure.

nolimitssjca is giving you a lot of good information. I've seen low resevoirs froth up fluid then its all down hill from there.
A fluid flush is a good idea and if you have the time a quick brake inspection is a good start to any brake project.