First square. 1980 GMC

[Mayhem.Evol]

Hey guys, I finally got this project home this Saturday. Bought it a week ago, but couldn't get it back here. I'll include pics at the end of the text

I have a bunch of questions because i picked this thing up really cheap and know it needs alot of work. I have no mechanical experience or fabricating. I've wanted a 73-87 since I was 15 so I went for it. I know I'm jumping in way over my head but I want to learn every single thing I can..

So it's pretty rough, bed is rusted through and damaged on the side. I suppose I can try to find another bed to put on it. I haven't got to get completely through the cab yet to see what the deal is there. The hood is obviously bent, but closes somewhat. I'll find another for it if I can. There is some weird wiring done I think, and i'll have to try to sort that out.

My biggest questions is where do i start?? It doesn't run.. supposedly needs new head gaskets. I don't think the carb was functioning right, so I just pulled it off tonight, with tons of pics of everything how it goes. Going to try to find out a model on it for maybe a rebuild if possible... all I can see on it now is Rochester Quadrajet.. So ill clean a bit and see if there is anything else written on it. Hmm there is the numbers 17080206 on it, a quick google search brought me to some pics and rebuild kits.

Well here are the pics, just an Imgur album. I can upload them right onto this post if y'all would prefer.

http://imgur.com/a/f7hBv

[Sodell]

First order of business is to buy a repair manual... and get to know your local pick n pull, and craigslist...

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by Sodell

First order of business is to buy a repair manual.

Yeah i didn't even think about that even though I just got one for my dodge. From the vin, I'm pretty sure it came with a 305 and it has an older gm 350 in it right now.. or according to the valve covers and what the guy said haha.

[BADAZ chevy guy]

Originally Posted by Mayhem.Evol

Yeah i didn't even think about that even though I just got one for my dodge. From the vin, I'm pretty sure it came with a 305 and it has an older gm 350 in it right now.. or according to the valve covers and what the guy said haha.

Welcome to the forum! You'll find everything from A/C to Vacuum here and a lot of guys to ask questions from.
Does the VIN start CCL (350) or CCR (400)? I don't see an option for a 305 on my VIN spec sheet.

[mrolds88]

Check the block numbers, directly in front of ta passenger side head stamped on the block surface. That will tell you what it is Other than the hood, the body looks nice. One of the first things I would do that I noticed that needs to be undone is the fuel line. Truck came from the factory with steel line the whole way from pump to carb. I would put it back that way. As far as the head gaskets, check your compression before you do anything. Not terribly difficult.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by BADAZ chevy guy

Welcome to the forum! You'll find everything from A/C to Vacuum here and a lot of guys to ask questions from.
Does the VIN start CCL (350) or CCR (400)? I don't see an option for a 305 on my VIN spec sheet.

Thanks! I've browsed these forums for years and saw N2TRUX's truck a few months back at a show 5 miles from my house. He's helped me out alot with looking back when i was 15 and now again at 20.

My VIN starts w/ TCG I'm pretty sure(don't have it on me right now) and the decoder i looked at said T = GMC C = conventional cab and G = 5.0L 2bbl.. however I think it has a 350 in it? I haven't looked up how to really tell, it says 350 on the valve covers and thats what he said was in it.

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Check the block numbers, directly in front of ta passenger side head stamped on the block surface. That will tell you what it is Other than the hood, the body looks nice. One of the first things I would do that I noticed that needs to be undone is the fuel line. Truck came from the factory with steel line the whole way from pump to carb. I would put it back that way. As far as the head gaskets, check your compression before you do anything. Not terribly difficult.

Okay, I'll look up how to check the compression and try it out this week.. I'll also find out which lines you're talking about. I wasn't lying when I said I literally know nothing at all lol

[TexasJeff]

Welcome to the forums, from a fellow Texas guy, that does not live to far from you. The truck is a little rough around the edges, but that is how mine started to, to there is lots of hope for the old girl. Looks to me that the person before you bought a GM Target Master engine and did a swap, I would bet money that is not the original engine.

[motornut]

nice score,looks solid
I'd lube up the hood,that can happen when the hinges seize up,

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by TexasJeff

Welcome to the forums, from a fellow Texas guy, that does not live to far from you. The truck is a little rough around the edges, but that is how mine started to, to there is lots of hope for the old girl. Looks to me that the person before you bought a GM Target Master engine and did a swap, I would bet money that is not the original engine.

Yeah he said it wasn't and the vin says it came w/ a 305 not 350. and thanks for the welcome! Cool to see members somewhat close.



Also to anyone reading this, when you try to start the truck, you have to have it in reverse... how can I fix this? I have the carb off and whatnot right now but I'd like to know why I have to go from park to reverse to get it to even attempt to start and maybe fix it before putting the carb back on after cleaning/rebuilding(if I can haha).

[mrolds88]

Here's the lines I'm talking about. As far as starting in reverse, your neutral safety switch needs adjusted. Its on the lower end of the column, on top.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Here's the lines I'm talking about. As far as starting in reverse, your neutral safety switch needs adjusted. Its on the lower end of the column, on top.

Ah thanks. I'll see what I can do about switching that line back to what it should be and adjusting the neutral safety switch if I can find it =p. Also have to find out what all the wires under the hood go to. I think the green one that is electrical taped into the battery and runs up the fire wall was for an amp/subs.

There are also random wires in the interior that I am not sure about.

I took the seat and carpet out today, not so pretty.. but I think it's not all horrible(if we forget about the floorboards)

[Mayhem.Evol]

I pulled off the dash pad thingy today and it was filthy underneath it. I also pulled the paneling under the steering wheel to look at the wiring.. I have no clue what any of it is lol. Any ideas?

Sorry for bad pictures, they didn't look that blurry on my phone.
The first pic is the radio. I'd like to remove it, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that. Can i just remove all wires completely that are connected to it? without messing anything else up.

The 2nd pic is a clump of wires hanging down. I don't know how to deal with these.. the orange and blue ones were running to the back of the seat for speakers/subs I think.

Any suggestions? or can someone point me in the right way to getting that mess cleaned up.

Also, is there a way to check if gauges work w/o the truck being on? probably a stupid question

And one last thing this post.. Any suggestions on a good way to clean up the metal of the floor in the cab? its just dirty and greasy and has rat crap on it. Not sure on the best way to get that up.

[mrolds88]

Looks like the radio is held in by the two nuts on the tuner shafts and there looks like there is a silver metal strap from the back of the radio to the lower dash. There should be a plug on the back of the radio. That should get your radio out. As far as the floor, I would wire brush and then use some POR 15 paint on it.

[thefraze_1020]

If you have any rust that you need to deal with. I highly recommend that you do what I did for my floor. Put a wire brush head on a drill and clean up the floor. Then vacuum the debris out. For the rust, I used a product called Conquest. Not sure where you'd find it around there, because I bought mine from a boatyard. Conquest is really expensive, but you shouldn't need much. Pour it into a pint bucket, yogurt container, etc. Mix it up and apply with a paintbrush to the rust. When it's converting the rust, it should turn the rust black. Allow at least a day for it to dry. Then you can prepare to paint the floor.

[thefraze_1020]

Btw, I'm glad to see there's another young guy on here. I'm 21, and figuring my '84 out as I go as well.

Actually, from what I can tell, your floorboards don't look bad at all. Mine were rustier than that. And I have a golf ball sized rust hole just inside the driver's door on the vertical part of the hump the seat mounts to.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

Btw, I'm glad to see there's another young guy on here. I'm 21, and figuring my '84 out as I go as well.

Actually, from what I can tell, your floorboards don't look bad at all. Mine were rustier than that. And I have a golf ball sized rust hole just inside the driver's door on the vertical part of the hump the seat mounts to.

20 here, so just 1 year shy of you. I might try that out on the floorboard.. biggest problem though is the pictures don't really show that the floorboard has random pieces of sheet metal screwed on top of it. Which I'm kind of scared to take off because it's solid enough now and I can't move it to someone who could weld new stuff on until it's running.

I'm going to try to get it running and whatnot first, I'm just ripping the interior out right now because teardown/cleaning is somewhat free haha. I'm having to do it pretty slow for now because I spent a few grand on my 2010 dodge.

I think the wiring will be my biggest issue. There also seems to be trash all in the vent system which I'll try to clean out tomorrow, and maybe get some cleaning equipment.. brushes and whatnot later this week along w/ carb cleaner and rebuild kit.

I'll have plenty more questions for everyone by the end of the week.

[thefraze_1020]

If you need seatbelts, I have the shoulder belts with the plastic retractor covers. There are in excellent condition, just need to be riveted back together. And the driver's side warning buzzer works if that matters to you.

I also have an AM radio that works pretty well. Anything else I can do to help, let me know.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

If you need seatbelts, I have the shoulder belts with the plastic retractor covers. There are in excellent condition, just need to be riveted back together. And the driver's side warning buzzer works if that matters to you.

I also have an AM radio that works pretty well. Anything else I can do to help, let me know.

I'll definitely have some questions for you I'm sure! I took the driver's side seat belt off. I'm going to replace them because they look pretty worn.. I just don't really trust them. The bolt into the floor of the cab on the passenger side seems to be stuck, I didn't mess with it today though. Not quite sure how to get it out. It does a lot of popping when you turn it and it takes alot more force to turn than the driver's side did.

Watching videos on headgasket replacements right now just to see what I'm in for.

[thefraze_1020]

Originally Posted by Mayhem.Evol

I'll definitely have some questions for you I'm sure! I took the driver's side seat belt off. I'm going to replace them because they look pretty worn.. I just don't really trust them. The bolt into the floor of the cab on the passenger side seems to be stuck, I didn't mess with it today though. Not quite sure how to get it out. It does a lot of popping when you turn it and it takes alot more force to turn than the driver's side did.

Watching videos on headgasket replacements right now just to see what I'm in for.

I experienced the same thing when I removed the seatbelts out of the 1972 I parted out.

Spray it with lots of penetrating oil. Tighten it back up, then out again. That way you can work it out without damaging the threads.

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

I experienced the same thing when I removed the seatbelts out of the 1972 I parted out.

Spray it with lots of penetrating oil. Tighten it back up, then out again. That way you can work it out without damaging the threads.

Sounds like a pretty good idea, I'll have to try that out.

Happen to have any suggestions as to where I should get a rebuild kit for the quadrajet I took off of it?

I've looked up a few threads on here, just wondering if you had any experience w/ them.

[thefraze_1020]

I have yet to rebuild my Q-jet, but when my dad rebuilt the carb on our International Scout, he went to Mike's Carburetor Parts for the rebuild kit.
He's located between Seattle and Portland. His kits aren't the cheapest, but the service is unbeatable, and there are videos and demos on the website.

If all you care about is price, NAPA should have the kit you need. First, I suggest you get the numbers off your carb, and look them up on Mike's to identify the kit you need.

Here's the website: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/

[thefraze_1020]

Do you have the number on your carb handy?

[thefraze_1020]

Never mind, I saw the numbers on your first post. I'm not 100% (hopefully someone can confirm this), but I believe this is the kit you need:

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...Kit_p_742.html

[Sodell]

[QUOTE=Mayhem.Evol;6641627]
The 2nd pic is a clump of wires hanging down. I don't know how to deal with these.. the orange and blue ones were running to the back of the seat for speakers/subs I think.

Those all look like speaker/stereo wires. I would take the stereo out, it should have a plug behind it with the wires...

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by thefraze_1020

Never mind, I saw the numbers on your first post. I'm not 100% (hopefully someone can confirm this), but I believe this is the kit you need:

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Roch...Kit_p_742.html

Thanks! I'll check that out tonight

When I wire brush the floor, should I use some sort of chemical with it to help or just straight brush to metal?

Originally Posted by Sodell

Those all look like speaker/stereo wires. I would take the stereo out, it should have a plug behind it with the wires...

ah I'll see what I can do about it then. I wasn't sure if they'd run right to the radio or what and didn't wanna start pulling haha