Torque Setting for Front Shocks (72)

[brown7373]

I just replaced the front shocks on my 72. Never saw shocks so worn out as these.

I'm a little confused at the torque numbers they give in the 72 Service Manual. It calls for 75 lower and 140 upper. What? 140 foot pounds? is that referring to the mounting stud to the frame? I had to replace one stud that had the mount end stripped, and was spot welded to the frame.

[hugger6933]

Just use the old German torque setting goodentight. I would say that 140 sounds like a bunch to me. I don't recall ever torquing a shock bolt in 38 or so years I've been wrenching. Jim

[airdale94]

Good and tight on the top and you want to make sure on the bottom that you get them tight enough that the bracketcompresses tight up against the shock sleeve or they will rattle. Glad you got that stud out! How did you finally get it out?

[brown7373]

First, I tried ground the stud end stripped threads from 1/2 inch to 7/16 and rethreaded for a 7/16 20 nut, which seemed to work fine. But when I reinstalled the rear nut to secure the stud it stripped out before it got "goodentight". Probably the reason a previous owner spot welded it.

So, with the stud rendered useless, I used a small cutting wheel on my Dremel to cut the weld, which was pretty soft and it wasn't much of a problem. A little tapping and it broke completely loose and came off. I then cleaned up the rest of the weld around the hole and installed a new stud. I only torqued it to 70 and I'm concerned that is not enough. That stud is pretty thick and I think uses a 15/16 nut. I may go back and tighten it some more. I think the Manual meant 140 ft lb for the stud attaching, not the shock, but it says "Shock Absorber Upper End", not the stud.

[Tx Firefighter]

Your torque specs for 140 ft/lb are correct.

Here is why....

The manual is referencing original shocks. Reference the shocks on the right side of the picture I've attached below. The original shocks on these trucks had a giant bolt built into the upper end, not a stud on the frame. That's also the reason new shock absorbers come with a stud and hardware in a little Baggie inside of the box. If you're removing original shocks, you must have a new stud to install into the frame since the replacement shocks have an eye on the upper end rather than a built in bolt. Few have ever seen this since virtually all of these trucks have had the shocks replaced sometime in the past and the replacement stud installed at that time.

So, yes, that big boy needs to be torqued down real tight. Otherwise they loosen and wallow out the hole in the frame. I use my 24 inch SnapOn breaker bar and get them as tight as I possibly can. Then, the nut that holds the shock to the stud, you torque to something reasonable.

[brown7373]

Thanks Tx, that makes sense now. And 70 ft lb is not tight enough. Probably the 140 for the replacement stud is about right.